Aconcagua
The
Cerro Aconcagua is located in
Argentina and is the
highest mountain in
The Americas and the
Southern Hemisphere, as well the
highest peak outside of
Asia and one of the
Seven Summits.
This member of the
Andes Range is bounded by the
Valle de las Vacas to the north and east and the
Valle de los Horcones Inferior to the West and South. The mountain and its surroundings are part of the
Aconcagua Provincial Park. The mountain has a number of
glaciers. The most substantial are the north-eastern or
Polish Glacier and the eastern or
English Glacier.
The
Aconcagua River rises on the southern slope and flows west, meeting the
Pacific Ocean 20 km north of
Valparaíso,
Chile.
The mountain was created by the subduction of the
Nazca Plate beneath the
South American plate during the geologically recent Andean
orogeny. The origin of the name is contested, it is either from the
Arauca Aconca-Hue or the
Quechua Ackon Cahuak, meaning 'Stone Sentinel'.
In
mountaineering terms, Aconcagua is technically an easy mountain if approached from the North, the 'Normal route', on this approach no actual climbing is needed although the effects of altitude are severe (atmospheric pressure is 40% of sea-level at the summit). The use of supplemental oxygen is not required.
The record for the Normal route is 5 h and 45 min, set in 1991. More typically, the Normal Route is ascended through three camps with additional rest days.
The second most common route is the Polish Glacier Traverse route. This approaches the mountain through the Vacas valley, ascends up to the base of the Polish Glacier, then traverses across to the Normal Route for the final ascent to the summit.
The routes to the peak from the Southern and Southwest ridges are more demanding and the Southern face climb is considered very difficult.
The first recorded ascent was in 1897 by an expedition led by the Briton
Edward Fitzgerald. The summit was reached by the Swiss
Matthias Zurbriggen on
January 14 and by two other expedition members a few days later.
Before attempting the mountain climbers need to purchase a permit from the Aconcagua Provincial Park authority in
Mendoza. Prices vary depending on the season.
*
Highest peaks*
trip report 2003-2005*
trip report 2004*
trip report 1996*
trip report 1997*
trip report from 1993
