Burgenland
Burgenland (
Hungarian Várvidék,
Őrvidék or
Felsőőrvidék,
Croatian Gradišće,
Slovenian Gradiščansko) is the easternmost
state or
Land of
Austria. It consists of two
Statutarstädte (towns with a charter) and seven districts with in total 171 municipalities. It is 166 km long from north to south but much narrower from west to east (only 5 km wide at
Sieggraben).
Burgenland is the 7th largest of Austria's 9 provinces
(Bundesländer), at 3,966 km². The highest point in the province is Geschriebenstein, at 884 metres, the lowest point is 114 metres, near Apetlon.
Burgenland has a very long border: To the west it borders the Austrian provinces of
Niederösterreich and
Steiermark. To the northeast it borders
Slovakia,
Hungary to the east and
Slovenia to the farthest south.
Burgenland shares with Hungary one of two lakes without natural
outflow in
Europe, the
Neusiedler See; the other one being
Lake Balaton, in
Hungary.
Burgenland's provincial assembly
(Landtag) has 36 seats. At the election held on
3 December 2000, the
SPÖ won 17 seats, the
ÖVP won 13 seats, the
FPÖ won 4 seats, and the
Green Party won 2 seats. The provincial government is a coalition of the SPÖ and the ÖVP. The
voting age for regional elections in Burgenland was reduced to
16 in
2003. In an election held on
October 9 2005, the
SPÖ won 19 seats, giving them a majority. The
ÖVP retained its 13 seats, the
Green Party retained its 2 seats, and the
FPÖ fell to 2 seats.[
1]
In Burgenland there are 2
Statutarstädte and 7 districts. From north to south:
 |
The districts of Burgenland |
Statutarstädte
These combine the attributes of district and city.
*
Eisenstadt*
RustDistricts
*
Neusiedl am See (administrative center
Neusiedl am See)
*
Eisenstadt-Umgebung (
Eisenstadt)
*
Mattersburg (
Mattersburg)
*
Oberpullendorf (
Oberpullendorf)
*
Oberwart (
Oberwart) (Hun.
Felsőőr)
*
Güssing (
Güssing)
*
Jennersdorf (
Jennersdorf)
Between Hungary and Austria
The first inhabitation of Burgenland dates back to the
Stone Age. During the
Roman Empire it formed the core of the province of
Pannonia. After the battle at
Augsburg (
955), Germanic settlers started to inhabit the area. In 1043 a peace treaty between Kaiser
Henry III and King
Aba Sámuel of Hungary fixed the western border of Hungary along the Leitha river. The territory of the present-day Burgenland became the western border-zone of Hungary until 1920.
The majority of the population was mainly Germanic except the Hungarian border-guards of the frontier (
gyepű). Germanic immigration was also continuous in the Middle Ages from the neighbouring
Austria. In the 16-17th centuries German
Protestant refugees arrived in Western Hungary to take shelter from the religion wars of the
Holy Roman Empire.
After 1440 the territory of present-day Burgenland was occupied by the Habsburgs of Austria, and in
1463 the northern part of it (with the town of Kőszeg) became a mortgage-territory according to the peace treaty of
Wiener Neustadt. In 1477 King
Matthias Corvinus of Hungary reoccupied, but in 1491 it was mortgaged again by King
Ulászló II of Hungary to Kaiser
Maximilian I. In 1647 Kaiser
Ferdinand II returned it to Hungary. In the 17-18th centuries wealthy Catholic landowner-families, for example the
Esterházys and
Batthyánys dominated the region.
After the demise of the
Austrian-Hungarian monarchy in
1918, the German inhabitants of Deutsch-Westungarn intended to join Austria. According to the 1910 census 291'800 people lived on the territory of present-day Burgenland. Among them 217'072 were German-speaking (74 %), 43'633 Croatian (15 %) and 26'225 (9 %) Hungarian. Roma people were counted according to their mother language.
The decision about Deutsch-Westungarn was fixed in the peace treaties of
Saint Germain and the
Trianon. Despite diplomatic efforts by
Hungary, the victorious parties of World War I set the date of Burgenland's official unification with Austria as
August 28 1921. In fact, the occupation by the Austrian police and customs was stopped on the same day, hindered by sharpshooters who offered armed resistance with the support of Hungary.
1921: The ninth state of Austria
With the help of Italian diplomatic mediation, the crisis was almost resolved in the autumn of
1921, when Hungary committed to disarm the sharpshooters by
November 6 1921, with the caveat of a poll about the unification of certain territories, including Ödenburg (
Sopron), the designated capital of Burgenland, and eight other communities. The poll took place from the
14th to the
16 December, and resulted in a clear (but doubted by Austria) vote of the people for Hungary.
Contrary to the other ('
Cisleithanian') present Austrian states, Burgenland did not constitute a specific
Kronland. Because of its different historical roots at the time of its formation it did not have its own 'regional' political and administrative institutions such as a
Landtag (representative assembly) and
Statthalter (imperial governor).
On
July 18 1922, the first elections for the parliament of Burgenland took place. To cope with the changeover from Hungarian to Austrian jurisdiction, a lot of interim arrangements were made. The parliament decided in
1925 on
Eisenstadt as the official capital of Burgenland, and moved from the various provisional estates throughout the country to the newly built
Landhaus in
1929.
The first Austrian census in 1923 registered 285'600 people in Burgenland. The ethnic composition of the province slightly changed: the percentage of Germans increased compared to 1910 (227'869 people, 80 %) while the percentage of Hungarians rapidly declined (14'931 people, 5 percent). This change was due to the emigration of the Hungarian civil servants and intellectuals after the union with Austria.
In
1923, emigration to the
United States of America, which started in the late 19th century, reached its climax; in some places up to a quarter of the population went overseas.
After the
Nazi German Anschluss of Austria, the administrative unit Burgenland was dissolved and integrated into the districts of Niederdonau (Lower Danube) and
Steiermark (Styria).
In addition to the oppression of the Jews, the ethnic groups
Roma and
Sinti also suffered from the people's xenophobic delusion; despite the fact that the Indian origin of these
ethnics actually made them, according to the
Nazi logic, "
Aryan".
The policy of
Germanization had effects on other ethnic minorities especially Croatians and Hungarians. Minority schools were closed and the use of native language discouraged.
The Nazis began, with the help of mostly Jewish forced labour and committed inhabitants, to build the
Ostwall (Eastern Rampart), which showed itself utterly useless at the time Soviet troops crossed the Hungarian-Austrian border and began to
invade Austria. In the last days of the Nazi regime a lot of executions and death-marches of the Jewish forced labourers took place.
Mine fields 1945 - 1970
As of
October 1,
1945, Burgenland was reestablished with Soviet support and given to the Soviet forces in exchange for
Steiermark (Styria), which was in turn occupied by the
United Kingdom.
Under the Soviet occupation, people in Burgenland had to stand a time of serious mistreatment and an extremely slow economical progression, the latter induced by investor-discouraging presence of the Soviet troops. The Soviet occupation ended with the signing of the
Austrian Independence Treaty of
Vienna in
1955 by the Occupying Forces.
The brutally defeated
Hungarian Revolution on
October 23 1956 resulted in a shockwave of Hungarian refugees at the Hungarian-Austrian border, especially at the Bridge of Andau (
Brücke von Andau), who were received by the inhabitants of Burgenland with an overwhelming amount of hospitality.
In
1957, the construction of the "anti-Fascist Protective Barrier" resulted in a complete bulkheading of the area under Soviet influence from the rest of the world, rendering the Hungarian-Austrian border next to Burgenland a deadly zone of mine fields (on the Hungarian border) and barbed wire, referred to as the
Iron Curtain. Even during the era of the Iron Curtain, local trains between the north and south of Burgenland operated as "Corridor trains"
(Korridorzüge) – they had their doors locked as they traversed Hungarian territory.
Starting in
1965 and finishing in
1971, the mine fields were cleansed because people were often harmed by them, even on the Austrian side of the border. This could well be taken as a sign of the Soviet Union towards opening the borders to the Western countries, starting in the late seventies.
Wine and Iron Curtain
Despite Burgenland (especially the area around
Neusiedler See) always producing excellent wine, some vintagers in Burgenland added illegal substances to their wine in the mid-1980's. When this was revealed, the wine export of
Austria broke down completely. After recovering from that scandal, vintagers in Austria, not only in Burgenland, started focussing on quality and mostly dropped the production of poor quality wine.
On
July 27 1989, the
Foreign ministers of Austria and Hungary,
Alois Mock and
Gyula Horn, cut the
Iron Curtain (in
German: "Eiserner Vorhang") in the village of
Klingenbach in a symbolic act with far-reaching consequences. Thousands of
East Germans used this possibility to flee to the West. Again, the inhabitants of Burgenland received them with great hospitality. Later, this was often referred to as the starting shot of the
German reunification.
In
2004, the complete opening of the borders in conjunction with
Hungary joining the
European Union has brought back the historical denotation of Burgenland being a bridge between the western and eastern territories in
Central Europe.
Burgenland has notable
Croatian (29,000 - 45,000) and
Hungarian (5,000 - 15,000) population residing in it.
Hungarians are living in the villages of
Oberwart/Felsőőr,
Unterwart/Alsóőr and
Siget in der Wart/Őrisziget. The three villages together are called
Upper Őrség (Hun:
Felső-Őrség, German:
Wart), and they have formed a language island since the 11th century. The other old Hungarian language island in
Oberpullendorf/Felsőpulya has almost disappeared today. The Hungarians of Burgenland were
"őrök" ie. guards of the western frontier, and their special dialect is similar to the
Székelys in Transylvania. Their cultural centre is Oberwart/Felsőőr.
The Croatians arrived after the devastating
Ottoman war in 1532, when the Ottoman army totally destroyed some parts of the territory. Their resettlement by estate-owners was finished only in 1584. They have preserved their strong Catholic faith and their language until today, and in the 19th century their national identity grew stronger because of the influence of the National Revival in Croatia. Between 1918 and 1921 Croatians opposed the planned annexation of West-Hungary to Austria, and in 1923 seven Croatian villages voted for a return to Hungary. The Croatian Cultural Association of Burgenland was established in 1934. In the Nazi era (1938-45) the Croatian language was officially prohibited, and the state pursued an aggressive policy of Germanization. The
Austrian State Treaty of 1955 guaranteed minority rights for every native ethnic minority in Austria but Croatians had to fight for the use of their language in schools and offices even in the 1960s and 1970s. In 2000 51 new bilingual village name-signs were put out in Burgenland (47 Croatian and 4 Hungarian).
The language of the Croatian minority is an interesting 16th century dialect which is different from standard Croatian. In minority schools and media the local dialect is used, and it has had a written form since the 17th century (the Gospel was first translated to dialect-Croatian in 1711). Today the language is endangered by assimilation, according to the UNESCO "Red Book". The Croatians of Burgenland belong to the same group as their relatives on the other side of the modern Hungarian border.
The region wasn't an independent territorial entity so it didn't have any name before 1921. Until the end of the
First World War the German-speaking western borderland of Hungary was sometimes unofficially called Deutsch-Westungarn (German West Hungary).
The name
Vierburgenland (Land of Four Castles) was created in 1919 by Odo Rötig, a Viennese resident in Sopron/Ödenburg. It was derived from the name of the four Hungarian
vármegye (in German
Komitate, 'counties') known in Hungarian as
Pozsony,
Moson,
Sopron and
Vas, or in German as Pressburg, Wieselburg, Ödenburg and Eisenburg. After the town of Pozsony/Pressburg was assigned to Czechoslovakia the number
vier was dropped, but the name was kept because it was deemed to be appropriate for a region with so many old frontier castles. The
Burgenland name was officially adopted by the first provincial Landtag in 1922.
In Hungarian the German name is generally accepted but there are three modern alternatives used by minor groups. The Hungarian translation of the German name,
Várvidék was invented by
László Juhász, an expert of the region in the 1970s and it is becoming increasingly popular especially in touristic publications. The other two names
Őrvidék and
Felső-Őrvidék derive from the name of the most important old Magyar language island, the Felső-Őrség. This microregion is around the town Felsőőr/Oberwart so these new names are a bit misleading however they are sometimes used.
The Croatian and Slovenian names
Gradišće and
Gradiščansko are translations of the German name.
Heraldic description of the coat-of-arms of Burgenland:
Or, standing upon a rock sable an eagle regardant wings displayed gules, langued of the same, crowned and armed of the first, on his breast an escutcheon paly of four, of the third and white fur, fimbriated of the field, and in dexter and sinister cantons two crosslets paty sable.The arms were introduced in 1922 after the new province was created. They were composed from the arms of the two most important medieval noble families of the region, the
Counts of Nagymarton and Fraknó (Mattersdorf-Forchtensten, eagle on the rock) and the
Counts of Németújvár (Güssing, three bars of red and white fur).
The flag of the province shows two stripes of red and gold, the colours of the coat-of-arms. It was officially confirmed in 1971.
*
History of Burgenland (PDF file)
*
Official website*
Burgenland Travel Guide*
www.sonnwendfeier.eu Midsummer Festival at Lake Neusiedl — Celebrating the longest day of the year...
*
French--
My pictures of Eisenstadt* http://www.hrvatskicentar.at/
