Dye
For the baseball player, see Jermaine Dye |
Yarn drying after being dyed in the early American tradition, at Conner Prairie living history museum. |
A
dye can generally be described as a
colored substance that has an
affinity to the
substrate to which it is being applied. The dye is generally applied in an
aqueous solution, and may require a
mordant to improve the fastness of the dye on the fiber.
Both dyes and pigments appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of
light while reflecting others. In contrast with a dye, a
pigment generally is insoluble, and has no affinity for the substrate. Some dyes can be precipated with an inert salt to produce a
lake pigment.
Archaeological evidence shows that, particularly in
India and the
Middle East, dyeing has been carried out for over 5000 years. The dyes were obtained from either
animal,
vegetable or
mineral origin, with no or very little processing. By far the greatest source of dyes has been from the
plant kingdom, notably
roots,
berries,
bark,
leaves and
wood, but only a few have ever been used on a commercial scale.
The first man-made
organic dye,
mauveine, was discovered by
William Henry Perkin in
1856. Many thousands of dyes have since been prepared. Synthetic dyes quickly replaced the traditional natural dyes. They cost less, they offered a vast range of new colors, and they imparted better properties upon the dyed materials.
[ ] Dyes are now classified according to how they are used in the dyeing process.
Acid dyes are
water-
soluble anionic dyes that are applied to
fibers such as
silk,
wool,
nylon and
modified acrylic fibers using neutral to acid dyebaths. Attachment to the fiber is attributed, at least partly, to salt formation between anionic groups in the dyes and
cationic groups in the fiber. Acid dyes are not substantive to
cellulosic fibers.
Basic dyes are water-soluble cationic dyes that are mainly applied to
acrylic fibers, but find some use for wool and silk. Usually
acetic acid is added to the dyebath to help the uptake of the dye onto the fiber. Basic dyes are also used in the coloration of
paper.
Direct or
substantive dyeing is normally carried out in a neutral or slightly
alkaline dyebath, at or near
boiling point, with the addition of either
sodium chloride (NaCl) or
sodium sulfate (Na
2SO
4). Direct dyes are used on
cotton, paper,
leather, wool, silk and
nylon. They are also used as
pH indicators and as
biological stains.
Mordant dyes require a
mordant, which improves the fastness of the dye against water,
light and
perspiration. The choice of mordant is very important as different mordants can change the final colour significantly. Most natural dyes are mordant dyes and there is therefore a large literature base describing dyeing techniques. The most important mordant dyes are the synthetic mordant dyes, or chrome dyes, used for wool; these comprise some 30% of dyes used for wool, and are especially useful for black and navy shades. The mordant,
potassium dichromate, is applied as an after-treatment.
Vat dyes are essentially insoluble in water and incapable of dyeing fibres directly. However, reduction in
alkaline liquor produces the water soluble
alkali metal salt of the dye, which, in this leuco form, has an affinity for the textile fibre. Subsequent
oxidation reforms the original insoluble dye.
Reactive dyes utilize a
chromophore containing a
substituent that is capable of directly
reacting with the fibre substrate. The
covalent bonds that attach reactive dye to natural fibers make it among the most permanent of dyes. "Cold" reactive dyes, such as Procion MX, Cibacron F, and Drimarene K, are very easy to use because the dye can be applied at room temperature. Reactive dye is by far the best choice for dyeing
cotton and other
cellulose fibers at home or in the art studio.
Disperse dyes were originally developed for the dyeing of
cellulose acetate, and are substantially water insoluble. The dyes are finely ground in the presence of a dispersing agent and then sold as a paste, or spray-dried and sold as a powder. They can also be used to dye nylon,
cellulose triacetate,
polyester and acrylic fibres. In some cases, a dyeing
temperature of 130
°C is required, and a pressurised dyebath is used. The very fine particle size gives a large surface area that aids dissolution to allow uptake by the fibre. The dyeing rate can be significantly influenced by the choice of dispersing agent used during the grinding.
Azo dyeing is a technique in which an insoluble azoic dye is produced directly onto or within the fibre. This is achieved by treating a fibre with both diazoic and coupling components. With suitable adjustment of dyebath conditions the two components react to produce the required insoluble azo dye. This technique of dyeing is unique, in that the final colour is controlled by the choice of the diazoic and coupling components.
Sulfur dyes are two part "developed" dyes used to dye cotton with dark colors. The initial bath imparts a yellow or pale
chartreuse color. This is
oxidized in place to produce the dark black we are familiar with in socks and the indigo blue of the common
blue jeans.
One other class which describes the role of dyes, rather than their mode of use, is the
food dye. Because food dyes are classed as
food additives, they are manufactured to a higher standard than some industrial dyes. Food dyes can be direct, mordant and vat dyes, and their use is strictly controlled by . Many are azoic dyes, although
anthraquinone and
triphenylmethane compounds are used for colours such as
green and
blue. Some naturally-occurring dyes are also used.
A number of other classes have also been established, including:
* Oxidation bases, for mainly hair and fur
*
Leather dyes, for leather
*
Fluorescent brighteners, for textile fibres and paper
*
Solvent dyes, for wood staining and producing coloured lacquers, solvent inks, colouring oils, waxes.
*
Carbene dyes, a recently developed method for colouring multiple substrates
By the nature of their
chromophore, dyes are divided to: [
1]
*
:Category:Acridine dyes, derivates of
acridine*
:Category:Anthraquinone dyes, derivates of
anthraquinone* Arylmethane dyes
**
:Category:Diaryl methane dyes, based on
diphenyl methane**
:Category:Triarylmethane dyes, derivates of
triphenyl methane*
:Category:Azo dyes, based on -N=N-
azo structure
*
:Category:Cyanine dyes, derivates of
phthalocyanine*
:Category:Diazonium dyes, based on
diazonium salts
*
:Category:Nitro dyes, based on a -NO
2 nitro functional group*
:Category:Nitroso dyes, based on a -N=O
nitroso functional group*
:Category:Phthalocyanine dyes, derivates of
phthalocyanine*
:Category:Quinone-imine dyes, derivates of
quinone**
:Category:Azin dyes***
:Category:Eurhodin dyes***
:Category:Safranin dyes, derivates of
safranin** Indamins
** Indophenols
**
:Category:Oxazin dyes, derivates of
oxazin**
:Category:Oxazone dyes, derivates of
oxazone**
:Category:Thiazin dyes, derivates of
thiazin*
:Category:Thiazole dyes, derivates of
thiazole* Xanthene dyes, derived from
xanthene** Fluorene dyes, derivates of
fluorene***
:Category:Pyronin dyes***
:Category:Rhodamine dyes, derivates of
rhodamine**
:Category:Fluorone dyes, based on
fluoroneAlso
*
:Category:Natural dyes*
:Category:Metal complex dyes*
:Category:Pigments**
:Category:Inorganic pigments
*
About Dyes