Gothic Lolita

Two girls in a frilly "Lolita" style that was popular around 2002 in Takeshita Street, Tokyo

Gothic Lolita or "GothLoli" (ゴスロリ, gosurori; sometimes alternatively "Loli-Goth") is a street fashion among Japanese teenagers and, to a lesser extent, young women and men. It is a subcategory of Lolita fashion that emphasizes Victorian-style and Edwardian fashion girl's clothing and often aims to imitate the look of Victorian porcelain dolls. Gothloli's name and origin is a combination of Lolita and Gothic fashion. The typical "Gothloli" style originated sometime around 1998 and became more widely available in various boutiques and some major department store by 2001. Some observers consider it a reaction to the "Kogal" subculture of Shibuya.

The popularity of Gothloli as a very distinct style and community peaked around 2004 and 2005 in Tokyo, and now it has settled down as one of many "alternative" youth fashions. Its popularity outside Tokyo is still slowly rising or at its peak in many areas, and the related maid cafe phenomenon is still slowly growing.

Gothic Lolita is the best-known of the various "Lolita" looks. Other categories include "Classic Lolita" (more traditional, light-coloured, also more mature-looking) and "Sweet Lolita" (childish pastel-coloured clothes, lots of lace and ribbons).

Gothic Lolita was influenced and popularised by the imagery of some Visual Kei (or "visual rock") bands. Mana, the former leader and guitarist of the Visual Kei band Malice Mizer is widely credited for having helped popularise Gothic Lolita. He coined the terms "Elegant Gothic Lolita" (EGL) and "Elegant Gothic Aristocrat" (EGA) to describe the style of his own fashion label Moi-même-Moitié, which was founded in 1999. Another popular figure was the singer Kana; who often modelled for Gothloli related fashion magazines.

The style

Mana

Gothic Lolita style is usually a combination of black and white, often black with white lace and typically decorated with ribbons and lace trims. Skirts are knee length and may have a crinoline or petticoat to add volume. As in mainstream Japanese fashion, over-knee socks or stockings are popular. Black fishnet stockings and white or black tights are also common. Shoes or boots with high heels (though not usually stiletto heels) such as Mary Janes, complete the look. Frilly, ruffled or lace-trimmed Victorian blouses are also popular especially with "EGL" types, who may also favour long skirts and jackets rather than the overtly "childish" designs of typical gothlolis. Apart from the occasional shortness of skirts, designs are usually modest, sometimes with long lace-capped sleeves and/or high-necked blouses.

Some additions may include pinafores, top hats, parasols, lace gloves, and lace headpieces. Mostly black or white, headgear might consist of a headband with ruffles, ribbons, lace or bows; sometimes even bonnets are worn. Hair may be curled to complete the porcelain doll look. The naturally dark Japanese hair color may be lightened to blonde or kept black. Some may choose to wear wigs as well.

Makeup is used sparingly and is seen more often with EGL styles than with other gothloli styles. Black eyeliner is typical. A pale complexion is preferred, so white foundation might be used. Red or black lipstick is seen, but lighter makeup is more common.

Gothic Lolita outfits may be accessorized with other props like conspicuous pocketbooks, hatboxes, handbags and other bags, sometimes in the shape of , coffins, and crucifixes. Teddy bears and other stuffed animals are also common, and some brands make special "gothic" teddy bears out of black leather or PVC. Also, many Gothic Lolita own Super Dollfies and carry them around.

"Lolita"

Although "Lolita" is a reference to Vladimir Nabokov's famous novel, and Lolita is often worn by teens, followers of the style do not consider it overtly sexual. In fact, in Japan many of them were unaware of the connection to the book until it was introduced to them in the Gothic and Lolita Bible as a suggested read. Instead, adherents present themselves as children or baby dolls and consider it necessary to look "cute," "beautiful," or "elegant" rather than "sexy".

Japanese culture places a higher value upon extremely youthful appearance and behaviour than Western, and some adult women buy large amounts of products, such as Hello Kitty goods, that are typically marketed only to children in the West. GothLoli is perhaps a more visible extension of this phenomenon.

Goth Loli culture

In Japan it is mass-marketed, though not widely worn, but has visibility particularly in the streets of Tokyo and Osaka, on television, in manga (see Paradise Kiss) and computer games. Now, however, with the fashion being picked up worldwide, it is slowly becoming more widely accepted and seen as more of a fashion than a culture or lifestyle. For many girls it is just a fashion, but there are still some who consider themselves "gothic lolita" by definition.

Outside of Japan, the lolita fashion is still a fringe-fashion; however, it has slowly begun to spread to other countries. Gothic Lolita, along with Cosplay and other Japanese cultural phenomena, can sometimes be seen at concerts and anime conventions throughout Europe and the United States. The style has not yet been mass marketed outside of Japan. Major brands such as Metamorphose Temps De Filles have recognised the international recognition of lolita fashion, hence have begun to ship goods to the international market. Gothic Lolita magazines are widely available for purchase on the internet and at Japanese bookstores, which also deal in anime and manga. Adherents in Europe and the United States often sew their own homemade Gothic Lolita outfits, sometimes offering them for sale to make up for the difficulty of acquiring them from Japan.

Gothic Lolita in the West

Many Goth girls in the west, have borrowed from the Japanese goth loli style, and have created a market for this style of clothing (particularly in online auctions). Americas Tokyopop recently commissioned, along with performer Courtney Love (who is not goth or goth loli herself, but is a former Japanese resident), an original manga in the goth loli style, called Princess Ai. This was the first widely publicized Japan/West goth loli collaboration.

Gothic & Lolita Bible

One magazine in particular, the irregularly published Gothic & Lolita Bible, has played an instrumental role in promoting and standardizing the style. The 100+ page magazine includes fashion tips, photos, sewing patterns, catalog descriptions, decorating ideas, and even recipes.

Shopping

Currently the commercial center of the Gothic Lolita subculture is the Marui Young department store in Shinjuku, after its predecessor Marui One closed at the end of August 2004. This large youth-fashion oriented department store has 4 floors entirely devoted to Gothloli and related fashions.

The Laforet department store in Harajuku also has one floor dedicated to Gothloli fashion and many Gothloli boutiques may be found in the Harajuku and Shibuya area.

Crossover with Goth

"Gothloli" as a fashion is not as strongly associated with a particular style of music or outside interests as Goth, and individual followers of Gothloli fashion may listen to a wide variety of music including regular Japanese pop and Visual Kei.

In Japan, Goth is a minor subculture with few followers, partly because the emphasis upon visual identity in Japanese youth culture makes other factors such as music and literature less important signifiers and perhaps partly because Christianity and Germanic culture are not integral parts of society. In Japan, people who have heard the term "Goth" usually assume that it is simply a contraction of "Gothic Lolita", except for the Goths themselves, who strongly emphasize the differences. Likewise, some western observers assume that "Gothloli" is the Japanese version of "Goth", purely on the similarities in fashion.

Previously in Tokyo, the largest "goth" club events, such as "Tokyo Dark Castle", would also attract a noticeable proportion of gothloli customers. However, since 2005 their numbers have dwindled and such events now primarily attract more typical goth, industrial and metal music fans. Visual kei concerts are often attended by many gothloli, but conversely, few goths.

Anime and Manga

Due to the popularity of this cute style with many fans of Japanese animation and comics, characters dressed in the "Gothloli" style may be found in numerous anime and manga. Some of the most prominent are Paradise Kiss, Le Portrait de Petit Cossette, Rozen Maiden, Sister Princess, Godchild, Karin, Rebelde (comic), Tsukuyomi - Moon Phase, Othello, Chobits, Death Note, xxxHOLiC, Princess Princess, Princess Ai and Pitaten. In some manga, such as X-Day, lolita is portrayed as a method of individualizing and becoming less shy. Most of these titles appeal primarily to male fans rather than the gothlolis themselves; however, large numbers of gothloli girls are visible at manga events such as comiket. They often buy doujinshi based upon their favourite bands, dolls and movie characters; and some are interested in other kinds of cosplay apart from goth loli style.

Some Lolita, especially those who wear the style as their usual daywear, state that "we say we're not cosplay, but they don't listen. Of course we're not happy, but there's nothing we can do about it." (translated from the 2ch lolita fashion messageboard introduction)

Movies and Real Life Series

*The main character in Shimotsuma Monogatari (or Kamikaze Girls as it is known in the English language release) dressed in the "Sweet Lolita" style.
*The movie "Peep Show" also features a lolita as one of the main characters.
*A television program is currently being aired in Japan called "Gothic Lolita," though some Lolita-fans have stated it is boring, AV, and uninteresting.
*Prior to "Gothic Lolita" a program called "Heaven a go go!" came on at 1 AM featuring a band comprising a punk, lolita, goth, and the herione. The band released a single.
*The television series Mahou Sentai Magiranger featured a pair of main villains known as Nai and Mea, who usually dressed in the Gothic Lolita style.