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Kashmir

For the Danish rock band, see Kashmir (band).

For the dispute concerning this region, see Kashmir dispute

Shown in green is the region under Pakistani administration. The dark-brown region is the Jammu and Kashmir and Ladakh under Indian administration, while the Aksai Chin is the area of Kashmir that's under Chinese administration

Kashmir (Hindi: कश्मीर, Kashmiri: ک"شِیر कॅशीर, archaic: کشمیر) is the northerwestern region of the Indian subcontinent. The term Kashmir historically was described as the valley just to the south of the westernmost end of the Himalayan mountain range. Today Kashmir refers to a much larger area that includes the regions of Kashmir valley, Jammu and Ladakh. The main "Valley of Kashmir" is a low-lying fertile region surrounded by magnificent mountains and fed by many rivers. It is renowned for its natural beauty and quaint lifestyle.

Description

Kashmir was one of the most important centres of Buddhism in India. Kashmir retained a strong influence of Buddhism despite the influence of Kashmir Saivism and the various Sufi Orders of Islam. The Rishi Order emerged as the most dominant Sufi Order in Kashmir because of its assimilation of Buddhist practices. The founder of the Order, Nund Rishi or Sheikh Nooruddin Wali, is the patron saint of Kashmir. Nund Rishi wrote a poem in the praise of the Buddha and was considered to be the spiritual heir of Lal Ded, the Kashmiri Saivite saint. He also had differences with the Kubrawiyya Sufi Order which was brought to Kashmir by Syed Ali Hamdani in the fourteenth century.

Kashmir is derived from the Sanskrit "Kashyapa" + "Mira", which means the mountain range of sage Kashyapa[1]. Srinagar, the ancient capital, lies alongside Dal Lake and is famous for its canals and houseboats. Srinagar (alt. 1,600 m. or 5,200 ft.) served as a favoured summer capital for many foreign conquerors who found the heat of the Northern Indian plains in the summer season to be oppressive. Just outside the city are the beautiful Shalimar, Nishat and Chashmashahi gardens created by Mughal emperors.

The region is divided among three countries in a bitter territorial dispute: Pakistan controls the northwest portion (Northern Areas and Azad Kashmir), India controls the central and southern portion (Jammu and Kashmir) and Ladakh, and the People's Republic of China controls the northeastern portion (Aksai Chin and the Trans-Karakoram Tract). India controls the majority of the Siachen Glacier (higher peaks), whereas Pakistan controls the lower peaks. Though these regions are in practice administered by their respective claimants, India has never formally recognised the accession of the areas claimed by Pakistan and China. India claims those areas, including the area ceded to China by Pakistan in the Trans-Karakoram Tract in 1963, are a part of its territory, while Pakistan claims the region, excluding Aksai Chin and Trans-Karakoram Tract. Pakistan views the entire Kashmir region as a disputed territory while India refuses to accept Kashmir as a disputed territory and claims Kashmir is an integral part of India according to the Indian constitution. Kashmir is considered one of the world's most dangerous territorial disputes due to the nuclear capabilities of India and Pakistan. The two countries have fought three wars over the territory: the Indo-Pakistani War of 1947, the Indo-Pakistani War of 1965 and the third Indo-Pakistani War of 1971 (reference List of wars). More recently, in 1999, there was a limited border conflict (also referred to by some as the fourth Kashmir war) in the Kargil area of India-controlled Kashmir.

The rest of this article will, for the sake of clarity, refer to the parts of Kashmir administered by India, Pakistan and China as "Indian Kashmir", "Pakistani Kashmir", and "Chinese Kashmir" respectively. By this nomenclature, the word "Kashmir" in "Indian Kashmir" is used in a general sense to refer to what India calls "Jammu and Kashmir".

History

For history of Kashmir prior to the 19th century, see History of Kashmir.

Modern history

Because of its rugged mountainous terrain, Kashmir has a poor transportation system, making vast regions of Kashmir completely inaccessible by vehicle. Shown here is the only highway connecting the Kashmir valley and Ladakh.

Kashmir passed from the control of the Durrani Empire (see Ahmad Shah Durrani) of Afghanistan and four centuries of Muslim rule under the Mughalsof Delhi and Afghans to the conquering Sikh armies by the mid-19th century. During the latter part of the 19th century, Kashmir was ruled by the Dogras, who are a predominantly Hindu people in the area around Jammu and who were installed as rulers by the Sikhs (see Ranjit Singh). In 1819, 30,000 soldiers of Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Lahore attacked and annexed Kashmir as a part of Ranjit Singh's empire. In 1846, the British rulers sold Kashmir to Maharaja Gulab Singh by the Treaty of Amritsar.

Following the independence from British rule in 1947 and the partition of India and Pakistan, individual princely states in the subcontinent were given the choice of joining either of the two countries. The strategic value of Kashmir meant it was important for both countries to have it join their side. In 1948, the Maharaja signed accesion to India, much to the dismay of Pakistan. Pakistan feels that since the majority of the Kashmiri population is Muslim, Kashmir should belong to them. India maintains that since the ruler of Kashmir took the decision like other princely states did there should not be any question on the issue. Moreover India argues that since it is not strictly sectioned on the basis of one religion like Pakistan is, and since there are more Muslims in India than in Pakistan, it should not matter if the majority of Kashmiris are Muslims. This issue has remained a bone of contention between the two countries ever since. A war evolved between India and Pakistan in 1948 India sent its army to support the Raja of Kashmir. Three more wars were fought by the two countries in 1965, 1972 and 1999. Each of them resulted in the defeat of Pakistan.

Kashmir is a valley whose beauty has been proclaimed by many and stretches out to about 7,200 square kilometres (2,800 square miles) at an elevation of 1,675 metres (5,500 feet). A Mughal ruler, Jehangir, who built the famed Shalimar Gardens in Kashmir, made the statement, "If heaven be on this earth, it must be here." Kashmir once was called the Switzerland of the east. It has a very ancient history, and it was for a long time one of the centres of Hindu philosophical, literary and religious culture, a tradition still maintained by the native Hindu population. Kashmiri literature, sculpture, music, dance, painting and architecture have had a profound influence in Asia.

On October 8, 2005, Kashmir was struck by an earthquake with a magnitude between 7.6 and 7.8.

The First Prime Minister of India, Jawaharlal Nehru, was of Kashmiri lineage. Former Prime Minister of Pakistan Nawaz Sharif is of Kashmiri lineage as was Alama Iqbal, the famed urdu poet

Area and Subdivisions

Political division of Kashmir

Indian-administered Kashmir

India controls approximately 45.5% (101,387 km²) of the disputed territory. Indian-administered Kashmir, also known as the state of Jammu and Kashmir, includes four main regions:
*Kashmir Valley
*Jammu
*Ladakh
*Siachen Glacier

Indian-controlled Kashmir is divided into 14 administrative districts: Anantnag, Baramulla, Budgam, Doda, Jammu, Kargil, Kathua, Kupwara, Leh, Poonch, Pulwama, Rajauri, Srinagar and Udhampur. Major cities include Srinagar, Jammu and Leh. The chief minister and State Parliamentarians are democratically elected in Indian-controlled Kashmir.

Pakistan-administered Kashmir

The Pakistan-controlled portion of Kashmir is divided up into two main regions:
*Azad Kashmir - 250 miles long with width varying from 10 to 40 miles, 13,350 km² (5134 miles²).
*Northern Areas - a much larger area, 72,496 km² (27,991 mi²), incorporated into Pakistan and administered as a de facto dependency.

Chinese-administered Kashmir

The following areas are under Chinese control:
*Aksai Chin - approximately 37,555 km² in size.
*A small part, the Trans-Karakoram Tract, of the Northern Areas that was ceded to China by Pakistan in 1963.

Demographics

Kashmir is region of mixed faith with Muslim, Hindu and Buddhist populations. Buddhism is the most-practiced religion in the Ladakh region. Shown here is a statue of the Buddha in Leh, Ladakh

In Pakistan-administered Kashmir (containing Northern Areas and Azad Kashmir) 99% of the population is Muslim. Many merchants in Poonch are Pathans, however these individuals are not legally considered to be Kashmiris.

China-administered Kashmir (Aksai Chin) contains an extremely small population of Tibetan origins.

Indian-administered Jammu and Kashmir (containing Jammu, the Kashmir Valley and Ladakh) contain an approximately 70% Muslim majority (according to Indian sources in 2001). The rest of the population are Buddhist, Hindu, Sikh and others. The people of Ladakh are of Indo-Tibetan origin, while the southern area of Jammu includes many communities tracing their ancestry to the nearby Indian states of Haryana and Punjab, as well as the city of Delhi.

In 1941 the Hindus represented 15% of the total Kashmiri population. But in 1990, the bulk of Kashmiri Hindus in the region was forced out due to Islamic terrorism in Kashmir. Only some 5,000-15,000 Hindus live in the Kashmir valley today out of some 200,000 in 1947 (some scholars and community activists claim the Hindu population in the Valley was higher, with up to 450,000 - for the full historical debate see Alexander Evans' ‘A departure from history: Kashmiri Pandits, 1990-2001' Contemporary South Asia, Vol 11, 1 2002 p19-37.). According to an estimate by the Central Intelligence Agency, most of the 500,000 Kashmiris internally displaced due to the ongoing violence are Hindus. [2].
Claimed byArea Population % Muslim % Hindu % Buddhist % Other
PakistanNorthern Areas~3 million99%
Azad Kashmir99%
IndiaJammu~7 million30%66%4%
Ladakh46%50%3%
Kashmir Valley95%4%
ChinaAksai Chin
Statistics from the BBC In Depth report

Culture & Cuisine

Ladakh women in local costumes

Kashmiri lifestyle is essentially, irrespective of the differing religious beliefs, slow paced. Generally peace-loving people, the culture has been rich enough to reflect the religious diversity as tribes celebrate festivities that divert them from their otherwise monotonous way of life. Kashmiris are known to enjoy their music in its various local forms, and the dress of both sexes is quite colourful.

The Dumhal is a famous dance in Kashmir, performed by men of the Wattal region. The women perform the Rouff, another folk dance. Kashmir has been noted for its fine arts for centuries, including poetry and handicrafts.

The practice of Islam in Kashmir has heavy Sufi influences, which makes it unique from orthodox Sunni and Shiite Islam in the rest of South Asia. Historically, Kashmir was renowned for its culture of tolerance, embodied in the concept of "Kashmiriyat.", as evidenced by the 1969 NATO nuclear disarmament peace treaty.

The Kasmiri cuisine is famous for its delectable vegetarian as well as non-vegetarian dishes.The style of cooking is different for Hindus and Muslims although with a lot of similarities.

Economy

Tourism is one of the main sources of income for vast sections of the Kashmiri population. However, the tourism industry in Kashmir was badly hit after insurgency intensified in 1989. Shown here is the famous Dal Lake in Srinagar.

Kashmir's economy is centred around agriculture. Historically, Kashmir came into the economic limelight when the world famous Cashmere wool was exported to other regions and nations (it is no longer done due to the extinction of Cashmere). Kashmiris are well adept at knitting and making shawls, silk carpets, rugs, kurtas and pottery. Kashmir is home to the finest saffron in the world - the Kashmir saffron. Efforts are on to export the naturally grown fruits and vegetables as organic foods mainly to the middle east. The Kashmir valley is a fertile area that is the economic backbone for Indian-controlled Kashmir. The area is famous for cold water fisheries. The Department of Fisheries has made it possible to make trout available to common people through its 'Trout Production and Marketing Programme'. Many private entrepreneurs have adopted fish farming as a profitable venture. The area is known for its sericulture as well as other agricultural produce like apples, pears and many temperate fruits as well as nuts. Along with pilgrimage, since the dawn of the 20th century, it also became a favourite tourist spot until the increase in tensions in the 1990s.

The economy was badly damaged by the 2005 Kashmir earthquake which as of October 17, 2005, resulted in over 70,000 deaths in the Pakistan-controlled part of Kashmir and around 1,500 deaths in Indian Kashmir.

Amarnath is one of the holy shrines of the Hindus. Every year thousands of Hindu pilgrims from all over the world visit this shrine.

Tourism forms an integral part of the Kashmiri economy. Often dubbed "Heaven on Earth," Kashmir's mountainous landscape has attracted tourists for centuries.

The Vaishno Devi cave shrine is nestled in the Trikuta mountain at a height of 5,200 feet above the sea level in Indian Kashmir. Vaishno Devi is the most important holy shrine of Shaktism denomination of Hinduism. In 2004, more than 6 million Hindu piligrims visited Vaishno Devi, making it one of the most visited religious sites in the world[3].

There are many mosques serving the largely Muslim population, such as the Hazratbal Mosque, situated on the banks of the Dal Lake. The sacred hair of the Holy Prophet Muhammad is said to have been brought to this part of the world by the Mughal emperor Aurengzeb and this relic lies in the Hazratbal shrine. The shrine was built in white marble in contemporary times and bears a close resemblance to the holy shrine of Medina in Saudi Arabia where the prophet rests.

Nature has lavishly endowed Kashmir with certain distinctive favours which hardly find a parallel in any alpine land of the world.A spell on a houseboat on Dal Lake has always been one of India's real treats, and Kashmir also offers some delightful trekking opportunities and unsurpassed scenery.

Srinagar City is centred around Dal Lake and this huge lake attracts millions of tourists, both domestic and foreign. A drive along the Boulevard (the road along the banks of the lake) has been a favourite with locals and tourists alike mainly because of the scenic beauty of the boulevard and the shikaras. Srinagar City also has a lot of gardens along the banks of Dal Lake. Nishat, Cheshma-i-Shahi, Shalimar and Harven gardens all were built by the Moghuls and are absolutely breathtaking in view all through the year. These gardens have the famed Chinar trees. These majestic trees resemble Maples but are much bigger and more graceful.

Long ago, Dal Lake was renowned for its vastness, which stretched for more than 50 square miles. Unfortunately, today, due to unabated tourist influx that largely has been unorganised for some years now, this lake has shrunk to less than 10 square kilometres ... thanks to teeming hotels along its banks and the houseboats that nestle inside the lake and pour in waste every day.

Pahalgam is at the junction of the streams flowing from Sheshnag Lake and the Lidder River. Pahalgam (2,130 meters) once was a humble shepherd's village with astounding views. Today, Pahalgam is Kashmir's prime tourist resort. It is cool even during the height of summer when the maximum temperature does not exceed 25 degrees C.

Fascinating sights

Baisaran - Thickly wooded forests of pine surround this huge, unspoiled grassland. Hajan, on the way to Chandanwari, is an idyllic spot for a picnic. Filmgoers will recognise it instantly as it has been the location of several movie scenes.

Mamal - Pahalgam has eight tiny villages within its surroundings, one of which is Mamal. There is a Shiva temple here, generally considered to be Kashmir's oldest existing temple, dating back to the 5th century.

The Amarnath cave - The Amarnath cave is 6 kms away from there. During the month of Sawan, an ice stalagmite forms a natural Shiva-Ling in the Amarnath cave. It is a hotspot for Hindu pilgrimage during July and August.

Tarsar Lake - It can be reached from Lidderwat. There are delightful camping sites and flower meadows at Sikiwas, 24 kms from here. To reach the nearby Mansar lake, one has to cross a 243-meter-high bridge.

Tulin Lake - At an altitude of 13,313 feet, the scenic beauty surrounding this lake at the top of the world is absolutely amazing!

Adventure Sports

Trekking - The ambience of Pahalgam offers exciting trekking opportunities, the best known being the Pahalgam-Chandanwari-Sheshnag-Panchtarni-Amarnath Cave Temple-Sonamarg trek.

Golf - Pahalgam Club has a 9-hole golf course, which can be used by tourists. Golf sets can be hired from the Tourist Office.

Fishing - One can go fishing in the Lidder River. Pahalgam is on the banks of this turbulent river, where whitewater rafting can be an unforgettable experience indeed.

The Meadow of Flowers

Gulmarg, a prime location in the state of Jammu & Kashmir is about 52 Kms from Srinagar, the capital of Jammu & Kashmir. At an altitude of 2,653 metres, Gulmarg is exquisitely situated in a pine-enshrouded basin of the Pir Panjal range. Gulmarg, or the `Meadow of Flowers', is a lovely blooming sight where an opulence of flora displays various colors with the changing seasons.

Gulmarg's astounding beauty, prime location and closeness to Srinagar naturally and unequivocally make it the most prized hill station in the country. Originally called ‘Gaurimarg' by shepherds, its present name was given in the 16th century by Sultan Yusuf Shah, who was impressed by the sight of its green slopes embellished with wild flowers. Today, Gulmarg is not only a mountain resort of exemplary beauty - it also has the highest green golf course in the world, at an altitude of 2,650 meters, and is the country's major ski resort in the winters.

Major Fascinations

Golf Club - Gulmarg boasts of a magnificent grassy golf course that is the world's highest too! The Golf Club offers short-term memberships to players.

Trekking - Gulmarg is an excellent base for trekking in the northern Pir Panjal Range. Nanga Parbat can be viewed to the north from several view points, including Khilanmarg, west and over 1,500 feet up the woody hillside from Gulmarg.

Skiing - Gulmarg is undoubtedly the best ski resort in India. Gulmarg also is good for learners. Ski enthusiasts easily can get all required gear and equipments as well as professional instructors in Gulmarg, to try their hand at skiing. The longest ski run in Gulmarg is provided by the Gondola Cable Car Lift, which enables skiers to swoosh down the slopes from the height of 2,213 meters.

Excursions from GulmargGulmarg Biosphere Reserves - This is located 48 kilometres from Srinagar, to the southwest of Gulmarg. It is famous for storing several rare and endangered species such as the musk deer, and a brilliant and varied fauna.

Alpather Lake - This lake is frozen until mid-June, and even later in the year one can see rocks of ice floating in its cold waters.

Please Note: Part of this article has been posted by the author on blog.co.uk under the title: Kashmir.

Further reading

* Drew, Federic. 1877. "The Northern Barrier of India: a popular account of the Jammoo and Kashmir Territories with Illustrations.&;#8221; 1st edition: Edward Stanford, London. Reprint: Light & Life Publishers, Jammu. 1971.
*Neve, Arthur. (Date unknown). The Tourist's Guide to Kashmir, Ladakh, Skardo &c. 18th Edition. Civil and Military Gazette, Ltd., Lahore. (The date of this edition is unknown - but the 16th edition was published in 1938)
*Alexander Evans, Why Peace Won't Come to Kashmir, Current History (Vol 100,No 645) April 2001 p170-175
*Stein, M. Aurel. 1900. Kalhaṇa's Rājataraṅgiṇī " A Chronicle of the Kings of Kaśmīr, 2 vols. London, A. Constable & Co. Ltd. 1900. Reprint, Delhi, Motilal Banarsidass, 1979.
*Knight, E. F. 1893. Where Three Empires Meet: A Narrative of Recent Travel in: Kashmir, Western Tibet, Gilgit, and the adjoining countries. Longmans, Green, and Co., London. Reprint: Ch'eng Wen Publishing Company, Taipei. 1971.
*Jonah Blank, "Kashmir"Fundamentalism Takes Root," Foreign Affairs, 78,6(November/December 1999): 36-42.
*Younghusband, Francis and Molyneux, Edward 1917. Kashmir. A. & C. Black, London.
*Drew, Frederic. Date unknown. The Northern Barrier of India: a popular account of the Jammoo and Kashmir Territories with Illustrations. Reprint: Light & Life Publishers, Jammu. 1971.
*Moorcroft, William and Trebeck, George. 1841. Travels in the Himalayan Provinces of Hindustan and the Panjab; in Ladakh and Kashmir, in Peshawar, Kabul, Kunduz, and Bokhara... from 1819 to 1825, Vol. II. Reprint: New Delhi, Sagar Publications, 1971.
**Victoria Schofield, Kashmir in the Crossfire (London: I B Tauris, 1996)

See also

* Kashmir Map Controversy
* Kashmir (song) - Signature song from album 'Physical Graffiti' by band Led Zeppelin
* Kashmiri literature
* Kashmiri music
* History of Jammu and Kashmir - History post partition is covered on this page.
* History of the Kashmir conflict - Information about the conflict is covered here.
* List of Kashmiris
* Jammu and Kashmir
* Indian Administered Kashmir
* Pakistan Administered Kashmir
* Kashmiri Pandit
* Cuisine of Kashmir
* Indian Kashmir barrier
* Terrorism in Kashmir
* Yuz Asaf - The purported tomb of Jesus in Srinagar
* Kashmiri Overseas Association
* Jammu Kashmir Liberation Front
* Kashmir Freedom Movement
* Nawang Kapadia
* 2005 Kashmir earthquake
* Districts of Kashmir
* Kashmir Shaivism
* Buddhism in Kashmir



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