Montparnasse
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The Montparnasse Tower, which at 209m was the tallest building in Western Europe when it was built. |
Montparnasse is an area of
Paris,
France, on the
left bank of the river
Seine, centered on the intersection of the
Boulevard de Montparnasse and the
Boulevard Raspail. Montparnasse was absorbed into the
14ème arrondissement in 1860.
The area also gives its name to:
*
Gare Montparnasse â€" trains to
Brittany,
TGV to
Tours,
Bordeaux,
Le Mans; rebuilt as a modern TGV station;
*The large
Montparnasse - Bienvenüe métro station;
*
Cimetière du Montparnasse â€" the Montparnasse Cemetery, where
Charles Baudelaire,
Jean-Paul Sartre,
Simone de Beauvoir, and
Samuel Beckett are buried
*
Tour Montparnasse, a lone
skyscraper.The
Pasteur Institute is located in the area. Beneath the ground are tunnels of the
Catacombs of Paris.
There are a number of
Breton restaurants specializing in
crĂŞpes (thin pancakes), a few blocks from the Gare Montparnasse, serving Bretons who arrived here from Brittany.
The name Montparnasse stems from the nickname "
Mount Parnassus" (
In Greek mythology, home to the nine Greek goddesses â€" the Muses â€" of the arts and sciences) given to the hilly neighborhood in the 17th century by students who came there to recite poetry.
The hill was levelled to construct the Boulevard Montparnasse in the 18th century.
During the
French Revolution many dance halls and
cabarets opened their doors.
Like its counterpart
Montmartre, Montparnasse became famous at the beginning of the 20th century, referred to as the
Années Folles (the Crazy Years), when it was the heart of intellectual and artistic life in Paris. Between 1921 and 1924, the number of Americans in Paris swelled from 6,000 to 30,000. From 1910 through the start of
World War II, Paris' artistic circles migrated to Montparnasse, an alternative to the Montmartre district which had been the intellectual breeding ground for the previous generation of artists. The Paris of
Zola,
Manet,
France,
Degas,
Fauré, a group that had assembled more on the basis of status affinity than actual artistic tastes, indulging in the refinements of
Dandyism, was at the opposite end of the economic, social, and political spectrum from the gritty, tough-talking, diehard, emigrant artists that peopled Montmartre.
Virtually penniless
painters,
sculptors,
writers,
poets and
composers came from around the world to thrive in the creative atmosphere and for the cheap rent at artist communes such as
La Ruche. Living without running water, in damp, unheated "studios", seldom free of rats, many sold their works for a few francs just to buy food.
Jean Cocteau once said that poverty was a luxury in Montparnasse. First promoted by art dealers such as
Henry Kahnweiler, today works by those artists sell in the millions of dollars.
They came to Montparnasse from all over the globe, from
Europe, including
Russia and
Ukraine, from the
United States,
Canada,
Mexico,
Central and
South America, and from as far away as
Japan.
Manuel Ortiz de Zárate,
Camilo Mori and others made their way from
Chile where the profound innovations in art spawned the formation of the
Grupo Montparnasse in
Santiago. A few of the other artists who gathered in Montparnasse were
Pablo Picasso,
Guillaume Apollinaire,
Ossip Zadkine,
Moise Kisling,
Marc Chagall,
Nina Hamnett,
Fernand Leger,
Jacques Lipchitz,
Max Jacob,
Blaise Cendrars,
Chaim Soutine,
Michel Kikoine,
Pinchus Kremegne,
Amedeo Modigliani,
Ford Madox Ford,
Toño Salazar,
Ezra Pound,
Max Ernst,
Marcel Duchamp,
Suzanne Duchamp-Crotti,
Constantin Brancusi,
Paul Fort,
Juan Gris,
Diego Rivera,
Marevna,
Tsuguharu Foujita,
Marie Vassilieff,
Léon-Paul Fargue,
Alberto Giacometti,
Andre Breton,
Pascin,
Salvador DalĂ,
Henry Miller,
Samuel Beckett,
Joan MirĂł and, in his declining years,
Edgar Degas.
[[Image:PicassoandFriends.jpg|thumb|left|250px|Montparnasse friends.In a 1915 photograph in front of
La Rotonde are (left to right): {{Manuel Ortiz de Zárate}}, {{Henri-Pierre Roché}} (in uniform), {{Marie Vassilieff}}, {{Max Jacob}} and {{Pablo Picasso}}]]
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La Rotonde at night 2002 |
Montparnasse was a community where creativity was embraced with all its oddities, each new arrival welcomed unreservedly by its existing members. When
Tsuguharu Foujita arrived from
Japan in 1913 not knowing a soul, he met
Soutine,
Modigliani,
Pascin and
Leger virtually the same night and within a week became friends with
Juan Gris,
Pablo Picasso and
Henri Matisse. In 1914, when the
English painter
Nina Hamnett arrived in Montparnasse, on her first evening the smiling man at the next table at
La Rotonde graciously introduced himself as "Modigliani, painter and Jew." They became good friends, Hamnett later recounting how she once borrowed a jersey and corduroy trousers from
Modigliani, then went to
La Rotonde and danced in the street all night.
While most of the artistic community gathered here were struggling to eke out an existence, well-heeled
American socialites such as
Peggy Guggenheim, and
Edith Wharton from
New York City,
Harry Crosby from
Boston and
Beatrice Wood from
San Francisco were caught in the fever of creativity.
Robert McAlmon, and
Maria and
Eugene Jolas came to Paris and published their literary magazine
Transition. Harry Crosby and his wife
Caresse would establish the
Black Sun Press in Paris in 1927, publishing works by such future luminaries as
D. H. Lawrence,
Archibald MacLeish,
James Joyce,
Kay Boyle,
Hart Crane,
Ernest Hemingway,
John Dos Passos,
William Faulkner,
Dorothy Parker and others. As well,
Bill Bird published through his
Three Mountains Press until British heiress
Nancy Cunard took it over.
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Cafés rented tables to poor artists for hours at a stretch. Several, including La Closerie des Lilas, remain in business today. |
 |
Le DĂ´me at night 2002 |
The cafés and bars of Montparnasse were a meeting place where ideas were hatched and mulled over. The cafés at the centre of Montparnasse's night-life were in the Carrefour Vavin, now renamed Place Pablo-Picasso. In Montparnasse's heyday (from 1910 to 1920), the cafés
Le DĂ´me,
La Closerie des Lilas,
La Rotonde,
Le Select, and
La Coupole—all of which are still in business— were the places where starving artists could occupy a table all evening for a few
centimes. If they fell asleep, the waiters were instructed not to wake them. Arguments were common, some fueled by intellect, others by alcohol, and if there were fights, and there often were, the police were never summoned. If you couldn't pay your bill, people such as La Rotonde's proprietor,
Victor Libion, would often accept a drawing, holding it until the artist could pay. As such, there were times when the café's walls were littered with a collection of artworks, that today would make the curators of the world's greatest museums drool with envy.
There were many areas where the great artists congregated, one of them being near Le DĂ´me at no. 10 rue Delambre called the
Dingo Bar. It was the hang-out of artists and expatriate Americans and the place where Canadian writer
Morley Callaghan came with his friend
Ernest Hemingway, both still unpublished writers, and met the already established
F. Scott Fitzgerald. When
Man Ray's friend and
Dadaist,
Marcel Duchamp, left for
New York, Man Ray set up his first studio at l'HĂ´tel des Ecoles at no. 15 rue Delambre. This is where his career as a
photographer began, and where
James Joyce,
Gertrude Stein,
Jean Cocteau and the others filed in and posed in black and white.
The
rue de la Gaité in Montparnasse was the site of many of the great
music-hall theatres, in particular the famous "
Bobino."
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Great artists performed at the Bobino Nightclub. |
On their stages, using then-popular single name
pseudonyms or one birth name only,
Damia,
Kiki,
Mayol and
Georgius, sang and performed to packed houses. And here too,
Les Six was formed, creating music based on the ideas of
Erik Satie and
Jean Cocteau.
The poet
Max Jacob said he came to Montparnasse to "sin disgracefully," but
Marc Chagall summed it up more elegantly when he explained why he had gone to Montparnasse: "I aspired to see with my own eyes what I had heard of from so far away: this revolution of the eye, this rotation of colors, which spontaneously and astutely merge with one another in a flow of conceived lines. That could not be seen in my town. The sun of Art then shone only on Paris."
While the area attracted people who came to live and work in the creative,
bohemian environment, it also became home for political exiles such as
Vladimir Lenin,
Leon Trotsky,
Porfirio Diaz, and
Simon Petlyura. But,
World War II forced the dispersal of the artistic society, and after the war Montparnasse never regained its splendour. Wealthy socialites like
Peggy Guggenheim, who married artist
Max Ernst, lived in the elegant section of Paris but frequented the studios of Montparnasse, acquiring what would become masterpieces that today hang in the
Peggy Guggenheim Museum in
Venice, Italy.
The
Musée du Montparnasse opened in 1998 at 21 Avenue du Maine. Although operating with a tiny city grant, the museum is a non-profit operation.
*Billy Kluver, Julie Martin
Kiki's Paris: Artists and Lovers 1900-1930 (the definitive illustrated account of the golden age of Montparnasse.)
*Shari Benstock,
Women of the Left Bank: Paris 1900-1940 (1986)
*
Morrill Cody & Hugh Ford,
Women of Montparnasse (1984)
*Morrill Cody et al,
This Must Be the Place: Memoirs of Montparnasse by Jimmie 'the Barman' Charters, As Told to Morrill Cody (1937, reprint 1989)
*
Jean-Paul Crespelle,
La vie quotidienne à Montparnasse à la grande époque 1905-1930 (author-historian who specialized in the artistic life of Montmartre and Montparnasse)
*Noel Riley Fitch,
Sylvia Beach and the Lost Generation: A History of Literary Paris in the Twenties and Thirties (1983)
*Dan Franck & Cynthia Liebow,
Bohemian Paris: Picasso, Modigliani, Matisse, and the Birth of Modern Art (2002)
*Herbert R. Lottman,
Man Ray's Montparnasse (2001)
*
Marevna,
Life in Two Worlds: A True Chronicle of the Origins of Montparnasse (London 1962)
*Kenneth Wayne,
Modigliani & the Artists of Montparnasse (2002)
*John Glassco,
Memoirs of Montparnasse (1963)
Being Geniuses Together, 1920-1930 by
Robert McAlmon,
Kay Boyle (1968)
*
La Rotonde Terasza, Paris (1917), by
Marie Vorobieff-Stebelska (
Marevna) (scroll down to 5th painting).
*
Homage to Friends from Montparnasse by
Marie Vorobieff-Stebelska (
Marevna), c.1962, oil/canvas, top left to right:
Diego Rivera,
Ilya Ehrenburg,
Chaim Soutine,
Amedeo Modigliani, his wife
Jeanne Hébuterne,
Max Jacob, galerie owner Leopold Zborowski[
1][
2]; bottom left to right: Marevna, her and Diego Rivera's daughter Marika, (Amedeo Modigliani),
Moise Kisling.
*
"Legendary Sin Cities" â€" CBC television documentary*
The Montparnasse district - Photographs of the years 1900 at our days
*
Map of Montparnasse in Paris