Padstow
Padstow (
Cornish:
Lannwedhenek) is a small town on the north coast of
Cornwall,
United Kingdom, approximately 14
miles north and east up the coast from
Newquay, at the mouth of the
River Camel (). Traditionally a
fishing port, it is now a popular
tourist destination, although some of its former fishing fleet remains, it is mainly a yachting haven on a dramatic coastline with few easily navigable harbours. Note the old sailor's maxim "Twixt Hartland Point and Padstow Bay is a sailor's grave by night or day." Padstow itself is a safe harbour however it is notorious for shipwrecks due to the dangerous
sandbar called "Doom Bar" in the Padstow estuary.
The
UK Census 2001 reported a
parish population of 3,162
[Parish population for North Cornwall district, Cornwall County Council and ONS, 2001.].
It was originally named "Petroc-stow", after the Welsh missionary St.
Petroc, who landed at nearby
Trebetherick around
AD 500. More recently, some have nicknamed it "Padstein" on account of resident TV chef
Rick Stein running a number of restaurants and hotels in the town. The most well-known of these is the
Seafood Restaurant on the quayside.
|
Padstow harbour and quayside |
Between 1899 and 1967 the
Bodmin-
Wadebridge railway extended to Padstow. The old railway line is now the Camel Trail [
1], a footpath and cycle path popular due to its picturesque route beside the River Camel. On the other side of the river, a ferry runs between Padstow and
Rock.
During the mid-
nineteenth century, ships carrying timber from
Canada (particularly
Quebec) would arrive at Padstow and offer cheap travel to passengers wishing to emigrate. Shipbuilders in the area would also benefit from the quality of their cargoes. Among the ships that sailed were the
barques
Clio,
Belle [
2] and
Voluna; and the
brig Dalusia [
3].
|
The black and red 'Obby 'Oss capturing a passing maiden during the Mayday festival. |
Padstow is best known for its "'Obby 'Oss" festival. Although its origins are unclear, it most likely stems from an ancient
fertility rite, perhaps the
Celtic festival of
Beltane. The festival starts at midnight on
May Eve when townspeople sing the "Morning Song". In the morning, the town is dressed with greenery and flowers are placed around a
maypole. The climax arrives when male dancers cavort through the town dressed as one of two 'Obby 'Osses, the "Old" and the "Blue Ribbon" 'Obby 'Osses; as the name suggests, they are stylised kinds of horses. Prodded on by
acolytes known as "Teasers", each wears a gruesome mask and black frame-hung cape under which they try to catch young maidens as they pass through the town. Finally, at midnight on May Day, the crowd sings of the 'Obby 'Oss death, until its resurrection the following May Eve.
|
The red party attending the 'Obby 'Oss with dozens of accordians and drums. |
On
Boxing day and
New Year's Day, it is an old tradition for some residents of Padstow to don
blackface and parade through the town singing minstrel songs. The date or means of origin of this custom, called "Darkie Day" is unknown.
*
About Padstow*
Cornwall in Focus: Padstow including further description of the 'Obby 'Oss festival.
*
Charles Henderson - Padstow Church: Its History and List of Vicars, 1927
