Paphos
Paphos,
[Paphos is usually written Paphos or Paphus in English, (Ancient Greek: ; Modern Greek: Πάφος, Páfos; Latin: Paphus, and for a time, Augusta; Turkish: Baf, formerly Baffa.] is a coastal
town in the southwest of
Cyprus. In Antiquity two locations denoted Paphos: Old Paphos
[Old Paphos, in Ancient Greek: , Ptol. v. 14. § 1; or, in one word, , Strabo xiv. p. 683; Palaepaphos, Plin. v. 31. s. 35)] and New Paphos
[ New Paphos in Ancient Greek (, Ptol. l. c.; Nea Paphos, Plin. l. c.. The name of Paphos, without any adjunct, is used by poets and by writers of prose to denote both Old and New Paphos, but with this distinction, that in ancient prose writers it commonly means New Paphos, whilst in the ancient poets, on the contrary, for whom the name of Palaepaphos would have been unwieldy, it generally signifies Old Paphos, the more particular seat of the cult of Aphrodite. In inscriptions, also, both towns are called . This indiscriminate use is sometimes productive of ambiguity, especially in the Latin prose authors.] The currently inhabited city is New Paphos.
Paphos is the mythical birthplace of
Aphrodite, the
Greek goddess of love, sex, and beauty, and the founding myth is interwoven with the goddess at every level. In Greco-Roman times Paphos was the island's
capital, and it is famous for the remains of the
Roman Governor's palace, where extensive, fine mosaics are a major tourist attraction. The
Apostle Paul visited the town during the first century. The town of Paphos is included in the official
UNESCO list of cultural and natural treasures of the world's heritage.
The Mayor of the Paphos Municipality is Phedias Sarikas, a member of
Social Democratic party
EDEK. In the last Municipal Elections in
2001, he was the only candidate for mayor, since he was supported by all the political parties. The town is capital of
Paphos District.
In the founding myth, even the town's name is linked to the goddess, as the
eponymous Paphos was the son of
Pygmalion[Pygmalion's father was Belus, simply "lord"l.] and his ivory
cult image of Aprodite, which was brought to life by the Goddess as "milk-white"
Galatea. The author of
Bibliotheke, the Hellenistic encyclopedia of myth,
Bibliotheke, the Hellenistic compendium of myth long attributed to Apollodorus, gives the genealogy
[Bibliotheke, iii.14.3.] Pygmalion was so devoted to the cult of Aphrodite that he kept the statue and kept it on his couch. The
daimon of the goddess entered into the
cult image, and the living Galatea bore Pygmalion Paphos and
Metharme.
Cinyras, perhaps the son of Paphus,
[According to the Roman Hyginus, Fabula 142, Cinyras was a son of Paphus, thus legitimate in the patrineal manner, but Bibliotheke makes Cinyras an interloper, arriving with some of his people from Cilicia on the nearest coast of Asia Minor, and thus a suitor from outside, in the matrilineal manner. The conflict is instructive.] but perhaps the successful suitor of Metharme, founded the city under the patronage of Aphrodite and built the great temple to the goddess there. According to another legend preserved by
Strabo (xi. p. 505), whose text, however, varies, it was founded by the
Amazons.
If mythical time can be related to chronological time, this will have happened in the mid second millennium BC.
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Houses of Dionysos Mosaic Paphos |
Archaeologists report that the site of Paphos has been inhabited since the
Neolithic period. It was a centre of the cult of Aphrodite and of pre-Hellenic fertility deities. Aphrodite's legendary birthplace was on this island, where her temple was erected by the
Myceneans in the twelfth century BC. The remains of villas, palaces, theatres, fortresses and tombs of the Classical, Hellenistic and Roman periods mean that the site is of exceptional architectural and historic value. The mosaics of Nea Paphos are among the most beautiful in the world.
The port of Paphos was rebuilt by
Nicocles, the last king of Paphos, at the time of
Alexander the Great. It became the capital of the island replacing
Salamis during the
Hellenistic era, under the successors of
Alexander the Great – the
Ptolemies who favored a location closer to their capital,
Alexandria. The theatre dating to the end of the fourth century BC has been under excavation by the
University of Sydney since 1995: it was partly excavated from its hillside setting and partly buiult up with earth embankments
Old Paphos
Old Paphos, now the site of
Kouklia (Turkish: Kukla or Konuklia) (Engel,
Kypros, vol. i. p. 125) was seated on an eminence
[ The hill is celsa Paphos in Aeneid x. 51], at the distance of about ten stadia from the sea, on which, however, it had a roadstead. It was not far distant from the promontory of
Zephyrium (Strabo xiv. p. 683) and the mouth of the little river
Bocarus[Hesychius, under ]Aphrodite at Paphos
The Greeks agreed that Aphrodite had landed at the site of Paphos when
she rose from the sea.
[Tac. Hist. ii. 3; Mela, ii. 7; Lucan viii.456]. According to
Pausanias (i. 14), her worship was introduced at Paphos from
Syria; but it is much more probable that it was of
Phoenician origin. Before archaeology commenced it was understood that the cult of Aphrodite had been established before the time of
Homer (ca 700 BC), as the grove and altar of Aphrodite at Paphos are mentioned in
Odyssey (viii. 362). Archaeology has established that Cypriots venerated a fertility goddess before the arrival of the Greeks, in cult that combined Aegean with Eastern mainland aspects. Female figurines and charms found in the immediate vicinity date as far back as the early third millennium. The
temenos was well established before the first structures were erected in the
Late Bronze Age: "There was unbroken continuity of cult from that time until 391 AD when the Roman Emperor Theodosius I outlawed all pagan religions and the sanctuary fell into the ruins in which we find it today."
[Ashmolean Museum website] Here the worship of the goddess centred, not for Cyprus alone, but for the whole Aegean world. The
Cinyradae, or descendants of Cinyras, Greek by name, but of Phoenician origin, were the chief priests. Their power and authority were very great; but it may be inferred from certain inscriptions that they were controlled by a senate and an assembly of the people. There was also an
oracle here.
[Engel, i.p. 483.] Few cities have ever been so much sung and glorified by the poets.
[For example, Aeschylus Suppliants 525; Virgil Aeneid i. 415; Horace Odes i. 19, 30, iii. 26; Status Silvius i. 2. 101; Aristophanes Lysistrata 833, etc.] The remains of the vast temple of Aphrodite are still discernible, its circumference being marked by huge foundation walls. After its overthrow by an earthquake, it was rebuilt by
Vespasian, on whose coins it is represented, as well as on earlier and later ones, and especially in the style on those of
Septimius Severus. (Engel, vol. i. p. 130.) From these representations, and from the existing remains, Hetsch, an architect of
Copenhagen, has attempted to restore the building. (
Müller's Archäol. § 239, p. 261; Eckhel, vol. iii. p. 86.)
New Paphos
New Paphos (Nea Paphos), the currently inhabited town, was founded on the sea, near the western end of the island, and possessed a good harbour. It lay about sixty stadia, or ca. twelve km northwest of the old city .
[Strabo xiv. p. 683.] It too had a founding myth: it was said to have been founded by
Agapenor, chief of the
Arcadians at the siege of
Troy (
Iliad. ii.609), who, after the capture of that town, was driven by the storm that separated the Greek fleet, onto the coast of Cyprus. (
Pausanias viii. 5. § 3.) An Agapenor was mentioned as king of the Paphians in a Greek distich preserved in the
Analecta (i. p. 181, Brunk); and
Herodotus (vii. 90) alludes to an Arcadian "colony" in Cyprus. Like its ancient namesake, Nea Paphos was also distinguished for the worship of Aphrodite and contained several magnificent temples dedicated to her. Yet the old city seems to have always retained the preeminence in this respect, and Strabo tells that the road leading to it from Nea Paphos was annually crowded with male and female votaries resorting to the more ancient shrine, and coming not only from the latter place itself, but also from the other towns of Cyprus. When
Seneca says (
N. Q. vi. 26, Epistle 91) that Paphos was nearly destroyed by an earthquake, it is difficult to say to which of the towns he refers.
Dio Cassius (liv. 23) relates that it was restored by
Augustus, and called
Augusta in his honor; but though this name has been preserved in inscriptions, it never supplanted the ancient one in popular use.
Paphos is mentioned in the
Acts of the Apostles (xiii. 6) as having been visited by
Paul of Tarsus, when it appears to have been the residence of the Roman governor; it is said that Paul converted the governor,
Sergius Paulus, to
Christianity.
Tacitus (
Hist. ii. 2, 3) records a visit of the youthful
Titus to Paphos before he acceded to the empire, who inquired with much curiosity into its history and antiquities. (Cf.
Suetonius Titus c. 5.) Under this name the historian doubtless included the ancient as well as the more modern city: and among other traits of the worship of the temple he records, with something like surprise, that the only image of the goddess was a pyramidal stone&Mdash; a relic, doubtless of Phoenician origin. There are still considerable ruins of New Paphos a mile or two from the sea; among which are particularly remarkable the remains of three temples which had been erected on artificial eminences. (Engel,
Kypros, 2 vols. Berlin, 1841.)
Post-Classical history
Paphos, however, was gradually losing much of its attraction as an administrative centre, especially after the founding of
Nicosia. The city and its port continued to decline throughout the
Middle Ages and
Ottoman Rule, as Nicosia, and the port cities of
Larnaka and
Famagusta were gaining in importance.
The city and district continued to lose population throughout the British colonial period and many of its inhabitants moved to
Limassol,
Nicosia and overseas. The city and district of Paphos remained the most underdeveloped part of the island until
1974.
The
Turkish invasion and occupation of the major tourist resorts of
Kyrenia and
Famagusta led to major investments by the government and the private sector in the district of Paphos. There was rapid economic activity in all fields but especially
tourism and the district's population stopped shrinking and indeed showed some signs of increasing. The government invested heavily in irrigation dams and water distribution works, road infrastructure and the building of
Paphos International Airport - the second international airport in Cyprus - while private initiative concentrated in hotel, apartment and villa construction and the entertainment infrastructure.
Today Paphos, with a population of about 47.300 (end of
2001), is a popular sea and a fast developing tourist resort, home to an attractive fishing harbour. It is divided into two major quarters: Ktima, on the sea terrace, is the main residential district, and Kato Pafos, by the sea, is built around the mediaeval port and contains most of the luxury hotels and the entertainment infrastructure of the city. The harbors of Paphos are not so important: the normal shipping goes via the harbor of
Limassol. Just as is the marina of Paphos for fishing and other kinds of interest.
At the harbour, there is the Castle of Paphos, originally built as a Byzantine fort to protect the harbour and rebuilt by the
Lusignans in the thirteenth century, then dismantled in
1570 by the
Venetians, who found themselves unable to defend it against the
Ottomans, who in their turn restored and strengthened it after they captured the island. Saranta Kolones, Kato Paphos, near the harbour, is a castle built in the first years of the rule of the Lusignans (beginning of the twelfth century) maybe on the site of a previous Byzantine Castle. It was destroyed in the earthquake of
1222.
The legacy from its remarkable history adds up to nothing less than an open museum, so much so that
UNESCO simply added the whole town to its
World Cultural Heritage List. Among the treasures unearthed, are the remarkable mosaics in the Houses of Dionysos, Theseus and Aion, beautifully preserved after 16 centuries under the soil. Then there are the mysterious vaults and caves, the
Tombs of the Kings, the Pillar to which Saint Paul was allegedly tied and whipped, the ancient Odeon Theatre and other places of interest including the Byzantine Museum and the District Archaeological Museum, with its attractive collection of Cypriot antiquities from the Paphos area, dating from the
Neolithic Age to 1700 AD. Near Odeon, there are the remains of the ancient city walls, the Roman Agora and a building dedicated to
Asklepeos, god of medicine.
The mosaic floors of these elite villas dating from the third to the fifth century are among the finest in the Eastern Mediterranean. They mainly depict scenes from
Greek mythology.
The city contains many
catacomb sites dating back to the
early Christian period. The most famous is Saint Solomoni Church, originally a Christian catacomb retaining some of its twelfth century frescoes. A sacred tree at the entrance is believed to cure the ailments of those who hang a personal offering on its branches.
A few miles outside the city, the rock of Aphrodite (
Petra tou Romiou, "Stone of the Greek") emerges from the sea. According to legend, Aphrodite rose from the waves in this strikingly beautiful spot. The Greek name,
Petra tou Romiou is associated with the legendary frontier-guard of Byzantine times,
Digenis Acritas, who kept the marauding
Saracens at bay. It is said in one such fight he heaved a large rock (Petra), at his enemy.
Near Petra tou Romiou, there is Palaepaphos, Old Paphos, one of the most celebrated places of pilgrimage of the ancient Greek world, and once an ancient city kingdom of Cyprus. Here are the ruins of the famous Temple of Aphrodite, the most ancient remains, go back to the
12th century BC. The temple was one of the most important places of cult and pilgrimage of the ancient world, till the
3rd-
4th century A.D. The Museum, housed in the Lusignan Manor, is small but impressive with many finds from the area.
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Ayia Paraskevi church in Yeroskipou |
Geroskipou with its remarkable five-domed Byzantine church of Ayia Paraskevi, and its Folk Art Museum is a town in Paphos
metropolitan area known for many years now for its special
delight `loukoumi'.
North-east of Paphos lies Ayios Neophytos Monastery, famous for its `Encleistra', Enclosure, carved out of the mountain by the hermit himself, which boasts some of the finest Byzantine frescoes of the
12th and
15th centuries. Near by too is the painted village church of Emba (Empa).
Four kilometres north of Paphos is the village of Lemba (Lempa), which has become home to numerous artists, many of whom have open studio shops, the sculpture known as the Great Wall of Lempa, by the Cypriot artist
Stass Paraskos and the
Cyprus College of Art.
Paphos is the birthplace of
Marios Joannou Elia, an internationally famous composer.
The most successful team of Paphos, is the
volley ball club of the town, Pafiakos, which has been Champion of Cyprus three times(last in 2006).Dionysos, a volley ball team from Stroumbi, a village of Paphos, plays in First Division as well. Both teams use the indoor Aphrodite Stadium. The
football club in Paphos is
AEP Paphos, a team founded in 2000, was traditionally in
Cypriot First Division, however this year plays in Second Division. The team plays in the football stadium of the town,
Pafiako Stadium.
In
2006 the second
Commonwealth Tenpin Bowling Championships were held in Paphos.
*
*
Cyprus Island - Paphos*
Official Cyprus Government Web Site - Towns and Population*http://www.ashmol.ox.ac.uk/ash/amps/cyprus/AncCyp-Aph-02.html Ancient Cyprus in the Ashmolean Museum]
*
''Excavations at the ancient theatre, Paphos: University of Sydney
