Split
Town|name = Split |name_local = |country = Croatia|image_coat_of_arms = Split (grb).gif|region_type =County |region_type_local = |region_name = Split-Dalmatia |region_link = Split-Dalmatia County|region_name_local = |population = 188.694 (300.000 in metro)|population_as_of = 2001|area = 28 |founded = |founded_type = |elevation = 3|lat_deg =43 | lat_min =30 |lat_hem =N |lon_deg =16 |lon_min =26 |lon_hem =E |website =
www.split.hr |image_location = }}
Split (
Italian:
Spalato,
Latin:
Spalatum,
Greek:
Aspalathos) is the largest and most important city in
Dalmatia, the administrative center of
Croatia's
Split-Dalmatia County. It is situated on a small peninsula on the eastern shores of the
Adriatic Sea. The majority of its citizens are Croats: 90.15% (2001 census).
Split is situated on a peninsula between the eastern part of the
Gulf of Kastela and the
Split Channel. A hill,
Marjan (178 m), rises in the western part of the peninsula. The ridges Kozjak (780 m) and Mosor (1,330 m) protect the city from the north and northeast, and separate it from the hinterland. Split has a Mediterranean climate: hot, dry summers (maximum air temperature in July reaches 36°C) and warm, wet winters (average annual
rainfall is 900 mm). Split is one of the sunniest places in Europe. Vegetation is of the evergreen Mediterranean type, and subtropical flora (
palm-trees,
agaves,
cacti) grow in the city and its surroundings. Marjan is covered with a cultivated forest.
According to 2001 census, Split has 188,694 citizens. There are about 400.000 people in metro area. The only autonomous nationality are Croats, which make 95.16% of population. By religion, 88.37% are Roman Catholics.
Although the beginnings of Split are usually linked to the building of
Diocletian's Palace, there is evidence that this area was inhabited as a
Greek colony even earlier.).
Diocletian was a
Roman emperor who ruled between AD
284 and
305 and was known for his reforms and persecution of
Christians. He ordered the work on the palace to begin in
293 in readiness for his retirement from politics in 305. The palace faces the sea on its south side and its walls are 170 to 200 m (570 to 700 feet) long and 15 to 20 m (50 to 70 feet) high, and it encloses an area of 38,000 m² (9½ acres). This massive structure was long deserted when the first citizens of Split settled inside its walls. In
639, the interior was converted into a town by the citizens of
Salona who escaped the destruction of their town by the
Avars. Over the centuries, the city has spread out over the surrounding landscape, but even today the palace constitutes the inner core of the city, still inhabited, full of shops, markets, squares, with even a Christian
cathedral (formerly Diocletian's
mausoleum) inserted in the corridors and floors of the former palace. Although part of
Byzantine Empire, the town had political autonomy.
The rise of the
Medieval Croatian state in the hinterland provoked in the following centuries a slow
Croatization of Split, which can be seen in the architecture of churches in the city and surroundings, and which led to the unity of the church with Split at the center in
928; it is important to mention that there was a big church synode, where a clerical jurisdiction over Croatia and relations of latin-rite and croat (slavic)-rite in church in Croatia were discussed.
At that time Split was also the capital city of medieval Croatian duchy and later, kingdom; Croatian duke/king ruled from this city, as well as from some other nearby townlets:
Solin,
Klis,
Biaći and
Omiš.
On the peninsula, position on the west of the southern city port there was a medieval
benedictin monastery of "St. Stephen under pines" (San Stephanus de Pinis), or in Croatian "Sveti Stipan pod borima". The peninsula got the name after that monastery -
Sustipan. Most famous inhabitant of that monastery was the son of Croatian king Demetrius Zvonimir (in Croatian: Dmitar Zvonimir), Stephen (in Croatian: Stipan). The founder of that monastery was the archbishop of Split, Lovre (in
English:
Lawrence), a big friend of the king
Zvonimir. The monastery was founded in 1069.
|
Narodni Trg (Pjaca) in Split |
At the beginning of the
12th century Split was led by
Hungarian nobility. The city however mantained independence, as in
1312 it issued statues and had a currency of its own. The
Venetian Republic took control of Split in
1420, when the population was almost exclusively Croatian. The autonomy of the city remained, though somewhat reduced: the highest authority was a prince-captain who was always of Venetian birth.
During the
Middle Ages and under Venetian rule Split developed into an important port city with trade routes to the interior through the nearby Klis pass. Culture flourished as well, Split being the hometown of
Marko Marulic, a classic Croatian author. Marulic wrote
Judita (
1501) in Split, and published it there (
1521). It is widely held to be the first modern work of literature in Croatian.
Venice held Split until its own downfall in
1797. The city fell to
Austria-Hungary after a brief
period of Napoleonic rule (1806–1813). Under Austria, however, Split stagnated. The general upheavals in Europe starting in
1848 gained no ground in Split.
Split in the 20th century
After the end of
World War I and the dissolution of
Austria-Hungary, the province of
Dalmatia, along with Split, became a part of
The Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (which in
1929 changed its name to
Yugoslavia). After both
Rijeka and
Zadar, the two other large cities on the eastern Adriatic coast, were annexed by
Italy, Split became the most important port in Yugoslavia. The Lika railway, connecting Split to the rest of the country, was completed in 1925.
In April 1941, following the
invasion of Yugoslavia by the
Axis, Split was occupied by Italy and formally annexed one month later. Italian rule met heavy opposition from the Croat majority, and almost a third of the population joined
Tito's
Partisans. The local football clubs refused to compete in the Italian championship;
Hajduk suspended its playing, while all the members of
RNK Split joined the Partisan forces.
In September 1943, following the capitulation of Italy, the city was liberated by
Partisans only to be occupied by the
Wehrmacht a few weeks later. During the occupation, some of the port facilities as well as parts of the old city were damaged by Allied bombing. Partisans finally liberated the city on October 26th 1944. On February 12th 1945 the
Kriegsmarine conducted a daring raid on the Split harbour, using explosive boats and damaging the British cruiser
Delhi in the process. Until the end of war Split was the provisional capital of Partisan-controlled Croatia.
After WWII, Split became a part of Croatia, itself a constituent republic of the
Socialist Federal Yugoslavia. It continued to grow and develop as an important commercial and cultural center. The city drew a large number of rural migrants who found employment in the newly built factories, a part of a large-scale
industrialization effort. In the period between
1945 and
1990, the population tripled and the city expanded, taking up the whole
peninsula.
When Croatia declared independence in
1991, Split had a large garrison of the
Yugoslav People's Army (JNA), as well as facilities and the headquarters of the Yugoslav Navy (JRM). This led to a months-long tense stand-off between the JNA and Croatian military and police forces, occasionally flaring up with various incidents.
The most spectacular such incident occurred in November 1991, when the JRM, including the light frigate
Split, fired a small number of shells at the city. No part of the city was seriously damaged, but there were human casualties. This was the only time in history that a city was bombarded by a military vessel bearing its name. On the same day of the attack, the
Split was damaged and abandoned, with one sailor who had refused to fight left in the vessel's brig.
The JNA finally evacuated all of its facilities in Split during January 1992
While Split is sometimes credited as Dalmatia's capital, at the present time there is no official governmental unit known as Dalmatia.
|
Panoramic view of Split as seen from the Marjan hill |
Split's economy has begun to emerge from the recession caused by the transfer to a market economy. In the Yugoslav era, it was an important economic centre with a diverse industrial base including
shipbuilding,
food,
chemical,
plastics,
clothing,
paper industry, etc. Today most of the socialist factories are closed down and the city has been concentrating on commerce and services, consequently leaving a significant portion of factory workers unemployed. Despite everything, it has managed to maintain its position as an important transportation, commercial, and administrative center of Dalmatia, ensuring stable, though somewhat lethargic economic growth.
The prospects for the future look brighter. The new A1 motorway, fully integrating Split with the rest of the Croatian Motorway network, has immediately helped stimulate economic production and investment, with countless new businesses and properties springing up in the city center and its suburbs. The entire route was opened in July
2005. Today, city's economy relies mostly on
trade and
tourism with some old industries undergoing revival, such as food (
fishing,
olive,
wine production), paper,
concrete, and chemicals.
|
Split Intl. aiport's terminal entrance |
Split is an important transportation centre for Dalmatia and the wider region. In addition to the
Zagreb-Split motorway (A1), all the road traffic along the Adriatic coast on the route
Zadar–
Dubrovnik flows by the city. The city also has an impressive series of expressways and avenues, enabling efficient, fast transit by car around the city and its direct suburbs.
The airport in Kaštela is the third largest in Croatia in terms of passenger numbers (935,269 in
2005), with year-round services to Zagreb and
Frankfurt in
Germany and heavy tourist traffic in the summer. Terminal expansion is to commence in 2008.
The Split passenger seaport is one of the largest on the eastern Adriatic coast with daily coastal routes to
Rijeka,
Dubrovnik and
Ancona in Italy. During summer season Split is connected with other Italian cities as well, such as
Pescara. Most of the middle Dalmatian islands are only reachable via the Split harbour (usually with
Jadrolinija ferries). This includes both the closer islands of
Brač,
Hvar and
Šolta, and the more distant
Vis,
Korčula and
Lastovo.
Split is the southernmost integrated point of the Croatian Railway network. The line to Split is unremarkable; a journey from Split to Zagreb or Rijeka takes around 5 hours, as the line is unelectrified and consists of only one track. Currently, there are no definite plans to upgrade the line, but a general transport improvement bill, to be passed by the Croatian Parliament in July 2006, may see the renovation of the line in the near future.
Split is also known as one of the centres of
Croatian culture.
Its literary tradition can be traced to medieval times, and includes names like
Marko Marulić, while in more modern times Split excelled by authors famous for their sense of humour. Among them the most notable is
Miljenko Smoje.
Split also houses two important archeological museums - one dedicated to antiquity, another to the early medieval period.
The most recognisable aspect of Split culture is popular music. Notable composers include
Ivo Tijardović,
Zdenko Runjić - some of the most influential musicians in former Yugoslavia.
There is great cultural activity during summers, when the prestigious
Split Music Festival is held, followed by
Split Summer (Splitsko ljeto) theatre festival.
Despite colourful settings and characters, as well as cinema tradition that could be traced to early 20th Century and works of
Josip Karaman, there were relativley few films shot in or around Split.
Split's most famous resident is the former
tennis star
Goran Ivanišević. Another rising tennis star is "Baby Goran",
Mario Ančić, also from Split. The local football team is
Hajduk Split. Basketball is also popular. The basketball club
KK Split (Jugoplastica) is keeping absolute record of winning
Euroleague three times continuosly (1989-1991) with notable players like
Toni Kukoč and
Dino Rađa. Members of local club rowing club
Gusar won numerous Olympic and world championship medals. Other popular sports are: swimming, handball and sailing.
The biggest sports events to be held in Split were the
Mediterranean Games in
1979 and the
European Athletics Championships in
1990.
Picigin is a local sport played on several of the city beaches (Bačvice etc). It is played in shallow water with a small ball(previously played only in Istria and Quarnaro).
|
The famous bell tower of the Cathedral. |
*
Ancona,
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Antofagasta,
Chile*
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Israel*
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Slovenia*
Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf of
Berlin,
Germany*
Official Split web page*
City of Split guide*
City map with street index Split - tourist info - CroMaps navigator*
Split Croatia*
Diocletian palace - in English*
Torcida football fans*
Split, Croatia Weather Forecast *
split.portal*
Split Dalmatia Accommodation*
Croatia Split Accommodation*
Split on Google Maps*
Split City Guide
