Tailor
:
See Tailor (fish) for the fish Pomatomus saltatrix.A
tailor is a person whose occupation is to sew menswear style jackets and the skirts or trousers that go with them.
Although the term dates to the
thirteenth century,
tailor took on its modern sense in the late
eighteenth century, and now refers to makers of men's and women's
suits,
coats,
trousers, and similar garments, usually of
wool,
linen, or
silk.
The term refers to a set of specific hand and machine sewing techniques and pressing techniques that are unique to the construction of traditional jackets.
Traditional tailoring is called
bespoke tailoring in the
United Kingdom, where the heart of the
trade is in
London's
Savile Row, and
custom tailoring in the
United States and
Hong Kong. This is unlike
made-to-measure which uses pre existing patterns. A bespoke garment or suit is completely original and unique to each customer.
Famous fictional tailors include the tailor in
The Emperor's New Clothes and
The Brave Little Tailor. A more recent title is John le Carre's
The Tailor of Panama.
For a free referral to a custom tailor in the U.S. visit the website of the non-profit trade association for sewing professionals, the Professional Association of Custom Clothiers (PACC) at [
1]www.paccprofessionals.org
* A
tailor-made is a womans'
suit consisting of a (usually)
woollen or
tweed coat and
skirt; the name arose during the
Edwardian period.
* As an adjective,
tailor-made (from the second half of the
twentieth century usually simplified to
tailored) refers to
clothing made by or in the style of cothes made by a tailor, characterized by simplicity of
cut and
trim and fine (often hand-)
finishing; as a women's clothing style
tailored is opposed to
dressmaker.
Rodeo tailor is a term for a creator of the flamboyant costumes typical of
country and western musicians, characterized by extensive hand
embroidery, an abundance of
rhinestones, and '
cowboy' details such as
pearl snaps and
arrowhead pockets.
* In some documents, "tailor" means "adjust", "tailoring" - "adjustment"
*
Sewing Professional is the most general term for those who make their living by sewing, teaching, writing about sewing, or retailing sewing supplies. She or he may work out of her home, a studio, or retail shop, and may work part-time or full-time. She or he may be any or all or the following sub-specialities:
*
A Custom Clothier makes custom garments one at a time, to order, to meet an individual customer's needs and preferences.
*
A Custom Dressmaker specializes in women's custom apparel, including day dresses, careerwear, suits, evening or bridal wear, sportswear, or lingerie.
*
A Tailor makes custom menswear-style jackets and the skirts or trousers that go with them, for men or women.
*
An Alterations Specialist, or Alterationist adjusts the fit of completed garments, usually ready-to-wear, or restyles them. Note that while all tailors can do alterations, by no means can all alterationists do tailoring.
*
Designers think up combinations of line, proportion, color, and texture for intended garments. They may have no sewing or patternmaking skills whatsoever, and may only sketch or conceptualize garments.
*
Patternmakers flat draft the shapes and sizes of the numerous pieces of a garment by hand using paper and measuring tools or by computer using AutoCAD based software, or by draping muslin on a dressform. The resulting pattern pieces must comprise the intended design of the garment and they must fit the intended wearer.
*
A Wardrobe Consultant or Fashion Advisor recommends styles and colors that are flattering for a client.
*
A Seamstress is someone who sews seams, or in other words, a machine operator in a factory who may not have the skills to make garments from scratch or to fit them on a real body. This term is not a synonym for
dressmaker.
Seamstress is an old euphemism for prostitute. At the turn of the last century in Seattle, for example, 80% of the city's revenues came from taxes on sewing machines, which were placed in windows instead of red lights. No doubt respectable dressmakers and tailors had to sew in the dark.
Deckert, Barbara:
Sewing for Plus Sizes: Design, Fit and Construction for Ample Apparel, Taunton, 1999,
Appendix B: How to Find, Select, and Work With a Custom Clothier, pp. 142-143.
*
The history of tailoring - an overview*
Nudie's Rodeo Tailors*
English Cut: The blog of a bespoke Savile Row tailor*
Blackstone's Free fashion advice for Men*
Rakehell Tailoring: Tailored clothing for discerning rakes*
Bespoke Made to Measure Suit Tailor*
Custom Suit Tailor[
2] The Professional Association of Custom Clothiers (PACC) www.paccprofessionals.org .
