4 Wheel Drive/SUVs/4WD

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Question
Hi Carl

Thanks for responding to my question. The sound is coming from the front drivers side. You are correct that I have automatic hubs and is shifted electronicaly. If it was the transfer case wouldn't both sides be making the noise. If I have to change the hubs would I be better off to go to a manual hub rather then a automatic one. Have heard lots of bad things about the ones I have.


         Thanks Wayne
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Followup To
Question -
I have 1988 Forb Bronco that I have been restoring. The problem is in the 4WD, it goes into 4WD alright and everything is working fine and the front end seems to be tight. But when I go back into 2WD it makes a noise when you drive. Sort of like a clicking and jerking sound. Any help you might be able to give would bwe appreciated.
Answer -
Wayne,

It sounds like you have a locking rear end.  They will make a clicking sound when in a turn, and will jerk (sometimes extremely hard with a loud bang) when unloading, and loading.  If this is the case, it is critical to make sure that you have the same air pressure in both tires on that axle.  If the tires are not the same size, or the pressure is not equal in both tires, the locker can unload, and load even when driving in a straight line.  Lockers take some getting used to, but are invaluable on the trail for extreme traction.  The type of locker can make a difference in how harsh the loading will be.  Lock Rites are extremely harsh, where a Detroit Locker is slightly smoother.

Another possibility, is that the transfer case, or one of the front hubs may not be disengaging.  I'm assuming that you have automatic hubs, and that your transfer case is shifted electrically.  If you are on hard pavement, and actually in 4-wheel drive, then the transfer case could be getting in a bind.

Carl

Answer
Wayne,

It sure sounds like a hub.  I have seen them break on several occasions.  If you do have to replace them, the manual hubs are much stronger, and preferable.

If it was the transfer case, the noise should be coming from the transfer case itself.  When you check it out, make sure that all the universal joints (front driveline, rear driveline, and the front axles) are all in good shape.

Carl

4 Wheel Drive/SUVs

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Carl Brandt

Expertise

Will discuss suspensions, lifts, lockers along with tire suggestions. Trail ratings and possible requirements needed for specific type of trails. Safety equipment and what you should carry with you. Certified off-road instructor. I am not a mechanic, and 4-Wheeling is a hobby, so if I can't answer a technical question it is due to my mechanical knowledge being related to vehicles that I have owned, or have worked on. I do not have manuals on all vehicles.

Experience

40 plus years of 4 wheeling in a variety of vehicles. At the present time, my major off-road rig is a 94 Jeep Wrangler with a spring over and a 1 1/2" suspension lift. This gives me a total lift of 7" or so. I have lockers front and rear. I have removed the track bars, and sway bar for maximum articulation. I am running a stock 2.5 ltr 4 cylinder with a Jacobs ignition along with a cold air high flow filter. It has 4.56:1 gears with a Dodge NV4500 transmission along with a 3.8:1 Atlas II transfer case. This gives me a final ratio of 105:1 in low gear/low range. Other vehicles I own, are a 96 Ford F-250 with a 6" lift, posi rear end, 36" Hummer tires, 5 speed with a fuel injected 460 ci engine, an 87 Samurai with an 8" lift, Ford 9" rear end with a spool, Chevy Dana 44 front end with an electric locker, 5.88 gears, 16% reduction in high range and a 6.5:1 low range with 35" Baja Claws, and a stock 2003 Grand Cherokee Overland. Trails I have run are the Rubicon (10 times), Dusey Ershim, Fordyce Creek trail, McGrew trail, several trails in Moab, Utah along with local monthly runs.

Organizations
Lost Coast 4x4's Cal 4-Wheel Corva UFWDA Blue Ribbon Coalition

Education/Credentials
Certified off-road instructor - Certificates in engineering/electronics

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