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About Barry W Macomber
Expertise
My experience is mostly with 19th century American clocks. I can answer repair questions and can identify most clocks of this period. I cannot answer questions about non-American clocks.

Experience
Many years buying, selling, and collecting American clocks.

Organizations
NAWCC 14,915

Education/Credentials
No formal education in this area.

 
   

You are here:  Experts > Style > Antiques > Antique Clocks > Chimes

Antique Clocks - Chimes


Expert: Barry W Macomber - 11/6/2009

Question
QUESTION: I received an old Ansonia, key wound,  mantle clock from my grandmother years ago.  I just had it overhauled, but one question remains. Is it at all possible to increase the loudness of the chimes?  I remembered them being much louder as a child.

ANSWER: OK first I am going to assume you mean chimes (tune) rather than strike (counting the hour). There is sometimes some confusion about this. In either case a rod, as in chime clocks, or a gong or bell as in striking clocks, is hit with a hammer. In chime clocks the hammer head is usually made of brass with a leather insert to hit the rods. Generally each has a set screw so the head can be taken off. Sometimes the leather can dry out. If they have set screws then they can be changed with new from any clock parts person. I have even turned them over so the brass hits the rod. It's more tinny but may be louder. The first thing is to see where the hammer head sits in relation to its rod. It must not be touching the rod but the closer the better. The idea is for the hammer to hit the rod and bounce back very slightly. If it did not bounce back the note would be just a clunk. You can try bending the hammer "handles" so the head is closer when at rest. Do this gently and only a very small difference each time. Then lift the hammer as far up as when it is striking and drop it to test. If you get it so it clunks, then go back ever so slightly. Also be sure the rod is in the middle of the hammer head when it hits and that the set screws are tight. Again, bend gently;from side to side or loosen the screw and swivel the head. Chime train designs are many and varied and I don't know exactly what you have. What I have told you is applicable to most of them. Some are more accessible than others. Try the hammer closest to you to see if you can make that one louder. They become more difficult to adjust as they go farther in. If you write again, please try to send a pic of the back of the movement.
IMAGE: Bullet

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thank you so much for your lucid answer to my question.  I'm sorry if I mislead you.  Didn't know the difference between ctriking clockd snd chiming clocks.  Mine is a striking clock.  Does the information you sent apply to both kinds of clocks"

Answer
What I said pretty much applies to striking clocks. You can replace the head if it is rotted or dry. (You might need to cut the old one off very close to the head.) You can also bend the hammer "handle" slightly to get close to the gong. Usually a clock like yours would have the gong base attached to the bottom or back of the case. Generally there is a nut underneath or 2 screws if on the back.  Make sure a nut is well tightened and also the bottom of the clock if it is held in by screws or nuts. If on the back, tighten the screws holding the base on and also the screw in the center. This can make a big difference. Make sure the hammer is centered over or beside the gong. Again, close as you can but so it still bounces off. You don't want to try this but on the back of the hammer is a "tail". Adjusting this can sometimes make the hammer raise more and so fall farther and more loudly. It wouldn't take a repairman long to check this but the movement should come out of the case. I hope this helps but as I tell everyone - a picture would be sooooooooo much help. Since I don't have one I tried to cover all the bases.  

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