Antique Clocks/Westminster Clock Motor
I just got an old clock from my grandparents. and the motor was weak, and now dead. I am looking for a replacement motor but don't know what to look for (the motor only has patent numbers on it.
The clock says its
NO. 212 DW
Self Starting Electric Westminster Chime
From my understanding it needs a 60 cycle synchonous motor with a 10 pin gear.
the burnt out motor is brass on one side with 2 leads that come out of the top.
Do you know where i can get a replacement or how to fix this one?
I was having trouble emailing you. so i re asked the question. Here is the link to my skydrive with pictures of clock
With the movement of the clock making to the south and now to Japan and China, replacement parts for older clocks are generally hard to come by or not available at all. Merritts (www.merritts.com) offers a limited number of motors. These appear on page 29-31 of their online catalog. Timesavers (www.timesavers.com) may also have some offerings. Whether these units would bolt up and provide the proper rotational speed, I do not know.
I have had moderate success relubricating old units. What causes them to fail the oil either evaporates completely or oxidizing to where it becomes gummy. The first thing I do is either file a notch into a corner of the gear case or drill a 1/16 inch diameter hole into the gear case. It is important to drill through a piece of tubing so as to prevent excess penetration of the drill bit when it breaks through the gear case. I then squirt in a quantity of carburetor cleaner using the straw that comes with the spray can. I then shake the unit to get the solvent to wet the entire movement. I then go to a well ventilated area and energize the movement. No electrical circuit should be closed or opened within a few feet of the motor as this solvent is highly flammable and would ignite if a spark was generated near the movement itself. Once the movement is running well, shake it a few more times. it is then necessary to drain the movement again in a well ventilated area. Warm the movement with the hair dryer, being careful to turn the dryer on at a fair distance from the movement. You may have to cool the movement and go through the warming process again to expel all the solvent. Then relubricate the movement by injecting oil in to it by this same hole. I have found household oil such as sewing machine oil works well for this. Possibly automatic transmission fluid might be better but would have to be put in an oil can first and then pumped in.
Do not get it too full of oil as it might interfere with the rotation of the rotor. However, it should be full enough so at least one gear dips into the oil. Sometimes, this process has to be repeated as that varnishy gum can be quite stubborn at times.