Expert: Terry V Andreasen (Andy) - 12/20/2008

Question
QUESTION: We have a safe made by Geo L. Damon of Boston (Damon Safe and Iron Works). It has my Great Grandfather's name on it and he passed away around 1900 so it has to be older than that. It sat in my Grandfather's garage for many years so the exterior now has a fair bit of rust damage, but the details on the front are in fairly good shape, the locking mechanism's work perfectly, and the interior is near perfect. It measures 14" Deep, 24" Tall, and 14 3/4" Wide.

We would love to restore it. I've been wondering if I should try to save the front and completely remove all paint and rust off the rest? If I cannot fully remove the rust I will at least build a wooden box to surround it and display the front.

I'm interested in you have any information on the manufacturer, any sense of it's value and most importantly any advice on how I should go about restoring/repainting it.

I've attached a few pictures, any advice you have would be most appreciated, thank you for your time.

Jason.

ANSWER: Jason,

George Leonard Damon was born July 15, 1843.  At the age of 18 he apprenticed himself to Harrison Loring, a south Boston Shipbuilding firm, where he eventually qualified himself as a mechanical engineer.  After 5 years in the ship building business, a fire, which destroyed the company he was with, changed his career path.  He soon settled on the safe building business and formed a partnership with James Wilson of Boston.  The firm bought the tools and plant of the Tremont Safe Company, and with these began the business of building safes.  After two and a half years, he was convinced to go back into ship building, and so he sold out to the American Steam Safe Co.  In 1870 he was offered a yearly salary of $6000 per year for three years, by the American Steam Safe Co., to manage their manufacturing.  In 1874 when the entire plant of the American Steam Safe Co, was offered for sale He was able to purchase it outright.   The companies building burned to the ground, Aug, 18, 1891.  Nov. 15, 1892 they formed a "trust" with several other companies, which became the Diebold-Mosler-Damon Safe company.

Based on the above information, and the photo of your safe, I would put the age of your safe around 1880.

In order to rate your safe, I'm going to need photos.  They should include full exterior and interior.  Detail photos should include pictures of the dial, handles, hinges, artwork, locks, castors, cabinetry and any special details or damage.  Please use as high a resolution as possible.  Pictures which are low resolution, out of focus, or from a distance don’t help when we try to evaluate the container.

Send the photos to:  andy@securitysafeusa.com

Rating Antique Value is based on several things, such as (but not limited to):
1.  Condition:  (excellent, good, fair, poor)
2.  Age
3.  Manufacture
4.  Type:  (Fire, Data, Burglary (bankers or jewelers)
5.  Construction methods:  (sheet steel, cast iron, composite, heavy steel/manganese)
6.  Size / Weight
7.  Art work  (original/refurbished/restored)
8.  History:  (documented with and without photo’s)
9.  Purpose of resale -  as an antique or for use as “Burglar safe or Fire safe“

We try to be as objective as possible, but ultimately the value is determined by the motivation of the buyer and seller.

Condition is based on different levels such as:
Excellent - Like new / out of the box
Good - Used but in like new condition/all parts available and work
Fair - minor damage, paint scratches, combo's and keys are available and/or doors are locked open.  Interior has minor damage.
Poor - Locked missing combo or keys, missing parts (ie locks, wheel packs) major damage, safe has been repainted over existing paint.  Interior damage, drawers missing, locks damaged, missing, etc.

The type of safe can change the value dramatically as Bankers & Jewelers safes are more sought after than cast iron record safes.

Purpose of "use"  If you are going to refurbish the safe and use it as an antique the value will be more than if you were going to use it as a "safe".  The reason being the safe was built 100 years ago, it would not stand up to current fire and burglary standards at all.

If the safe has documented history and/or if you restored it to original condition you could significantly improve the value of the safe.

If you decide to restore it, I have some ideas that will be of help to you, but unless it is a really unique safe and/or you are really in love with it, you should plan on spending more than it is worth.
Some of your options would include finding an art restoration company to restore the art work, or perhaps getting the Art Department at a local college to take on the safe as a restoration project.  Similarly, you could find a cabinet maker to redo the interior, or have the wood shop dept., at the college take the safe on as a restoration project.  Updating the interior for a specific purpose would not ruin the value of the safe.

Note:  Remember that the majority of these safes were built prior to cutting torches and/or most of the electrical tools that we have today.  The do not meet current burglary or fire protection standards and as such should not be used for overnight storage of valuables such as:  cash, jewelry, valuable documents, guns or computer media (discs, thumbdrives, microfiche).  

Depending on how large your safe is you could use it as an interesting conversation piece or storage and display of collectible items that you may have.  Don't be afraid to convert the interior cabinetry over to a nice display cabinet of some sort.  If you really like the safe, and it isn't in the way, it would make a great end table/conversation piece.  If the inside is serviceable and not in too bad shape, you could convert it for use as a Humidor for cigars or small wine cabinet for those red wines that like the dark and a constant temperature.

Hope this has given you some ideas.  Don't forget to send me the photos.

Andy


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks for the quick response that's helpful. I've e-mailed you a few other pictures.

I just had one other question, in restoring the paint, given that I have a fair bit of rust damage, I have had someone offer to sandblast it free of all rust and current paint, they would then duplicate the original paint details. Would this change the value significantly?

Thanks,
Jason.

Answer
Jason,

not at all, after all, the safe is the antique, not the paint.

Take lots of detail, upclose photos of the art work before the sand blasting.  You may want to also, cover the safe with clear plastic, and using a sharpie marker, make "templates" of the artwork to ensure that the recreations are as close to original as possible.

When repainting the safe, don't forget the bottom of the safe.  You don't want to have all of your hard work spoiled because it started to rust again.

Get your base coat of rust preventative paint on as soon as possible after the sand blasting to ensure that it will not start rusting.  Electrolysis caused by the sand blasting can actually speed up the rust process.

If the metal is pitted severly, it may be necessary to "fair" the metal to remove the pitting and any blemishes in the metal.  Auto body shops use "bondo", but their are other fairing compounds that work as well.  This will give you a smooth surface for repainting the safe.

While you have the safe disassembled, have the dial, handles, acorns, etc, rechromed or nickel plated, this will really show off the paint job.

Take the time to have the cabinetry replace.  The extra effort can make the value of the safe skyrocket.

Good luck and don't forget to send me some photos after you are finished.

Andy