Expert: Judy Frayne - 2/27/2010

Question
QUESTION: Hello Judy: I am a very small manufacturer of Suntan Oils in the New England area. For years, I've been using synthetic fragrances in my product. I want to stop using man-made fragrances and start using essential oils for the scent. I would like the aroma to be an exhilarating and happy feeling, but yet economical. My carrier oil is Sunflower Oil. What essential Oil(s) would you use for this application and at what percentage? Any suggestions? Thank You!

ANSWER: Thank you for your question. I understand your desire to use a more natural way of fragrancing your Suntan Oils. However, I would never recommend the use of essential oils in a suntanning capacity.I have copied a very good article on the dangers of using essential oils for sun exposure :


Sun sensitivity (phototoxicity) and essential oils.
Sun sensitivity (phototoxicity) or otherwise also known as photosensitization occurs when an agent, in our case certain essential oils, are used and they cause the skin to be more sensitive to sunlight (actually any ultra violet - UV - light) and one would therefore burn and damage more easily.



The oils as such do not cause skin sensitivity, but when applied and the skin is exposed to ultra violet (UV) light, sun sensitivity may occur. Should phototoxic oil be used in aromatherapy massage, one should not sun tan for at least 12 hours after the massage.

The main culprits causing phototoxicity are the oils from the citrus family, when they are extracted by direct expression and without distillation. There are however some oils, like lemon, which still remains phototoxic even after distillation.

The agent causing this sun sensitivity is the bergaptene contained in the oil.

Should oil contain a very small amount of bergaptene or 5 methoxypsolaren (5 MOP) - normally below 0.000075% the effect will not be pronounced such as sweet orange oil, which contains only 0.00005%.

Oils like bergamot, lime and bitter orange are severely phototoxic when used undiluted, but should they be used in very low dilutions the sun sensitizing effect is negated to a large degree.

People should not include any of these oils in sun tanning lotions or creams, because it WILL NOT make you tan easier or faster, but will only cause burning, and skin damage when exposed to the sun.

Essential oils that may cause sun sensitivity:
Angelica
Bergamot *
Bitter orange (cold pressed)
Cumin
Dill
Grapefruit (cold pressed)
Lemon (cold pressed as well as distilled)
Lemon verbena
Lime (cold pressed as well as distilled)
Orange
Ginger
Mandarin
Tagetes
Tangerine (cold pressed)
Yuzu
* Unless it is bergaptene-free oil - sold as Bergamot FCF.

I will also add that essential oils become damaged when exposed to sunlight during storage - I think you may be better sticking with the synthetic fragrances.

I am sorry to dampen your enthusiasm - but you could be letting yourself in for trouble - people are so aware of the dangers of suntanning these days.

Best regards

Judy



---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hello again Judy, thanks for the previous information, very helpful. I am also in the experimental stages of working on an all natural massage oil. What ECONOMICAL essential oil(s) would you recommend for a pleasant aroma and at what percentage. Thanks again.

Answer
Hi there - for a massage oil only, I would recommend:

Lavender has to be the most relaxing and one of the most inexpensive.It has cooling and soothing properties.
Ylang Ylang is one of my favourites and again very relaxing, but quite heady - a little like Jasmine.
Sandalwood is a good and reasonably priced oil and relaxes as well as being quite woody and more masculine perhaps.
I also love Frankincense - slightly more expensive, but a wonderful non sedative relaxer.
And finally, Geranium is another flowery one, but again, non sedative and calming and balancing.

These all blend well in combination, and are all very good for the skin.  

I have no experience of commercial manufacture. My own experience is that I would add up to 20 drops of oil into a 50ml bottle of carrier. ( a minimum of 3 - 4 drops per 10 ml) However I would stress that if that mixture is kept for more than a few months, it will lose it's potency. Bottles should be stored out of the sunlight, kept in a cool place and in glass containers, not plastic ones. Neither should they be have any contact with metal.

I hope your venture is a success
Best wishes
Judy