Auto Glass/2004 Toyota Highlander rear window off track...
Bart wrote at 2010-10-25 23:34:34
Thanks to the answer above, I just completed this repair on the driver's side rear window in my 2001 Highlander. Here are a few tips to add:
1. If you have tinted windows, be very careful not to scratch the tint while moving the glass and motor around. Cover the arm with a rag if necessary.
2. My metal lift channel would not budge while in the door, so I opted to remove the glass as described above.
3. I could only find one 10mm bolt holding the rear "glass run channel" in place at its base. I should have looked for one at the top, because...
4. Getting the window out of the channels was difficult. Twisting the channel clockwise at the bottom (as you would look down on it) allowed the glass to pop out. It took some careful maneuvering, though.
5. Once your glass is out, mark it with some masking tape. Indicate the current position of the metal, and also the original position which should be obvious based on dirt patterns. I could easily see where it had started when new.
6. It was too hard to slide the metal back where it should go (mine had moved rearward 1-2 inches). I was afraid of breaking the glass. Removing the bar proved to be equally as scary, however, because I had to do some prying at one end.
7. Once it was off, it was easiest to install the rubber first, then tap the metal into place with a rubber mallet. Be careful not to rest the glass on a solid surface or you risk shattering it. I chose to rest the glass on a rug with either the left or right side down, and the metal bar side running vertically. I braced one side on my leg and tapped the metal bar into place on the other side. This way the glass had some give with every horizontal tap. There is probably something real dangerous about it breaking and cutting my leg, but it worked for me. Use your own judgment. Be careful with the rubber mallet, too, because I found out later that my tapping bent the metal channel slightly closer together. I had to open it up with some pliers before it would allow the motor arm to be inserted again.
8. Removing the four bolts holding the motor in place made re-assembly of the arm to the channel much easier.
9. Lube the channel where the motor arm slides, but only AFTER installation. Otherwise it gets all over your hands, the window, the felt/rubber seals that rub on the window as it goes up and down, etc.
10. Apply silicone spray lube to all vertical glass run channels on all doors of the vehicle (with the windows down). Over the years it gets harder and harder for the glass to slide, and I think this contributes to the metal bar moving on the glass. Also, some people think their power window motors are getting weak when the windows just need some lube. I almost made this mistake with another car one time. I was ready to purchase replacement motors but decided to give silicone a try. They lasted years afterwords. That's silicone lube, in a spray can, by the way - not silicone adhesive or caulk.
I hope this was helpful.
Matto wrote at 2012-06-15 20:09:35
Just want to confirm that Ben is right on. My 2005 Highlander (V6) started having this problem on first the rear passenger side at around 120,000 miles then on the rear driver's side about 2500 miles later. I had put the regulator arm back in the channel about three or four times before turning here for a better solution.
Sure enough, the metal "run channel" had slid towards the rear of the vehicle a good two inches I'd say. I've got the door panels off both sides right now and have just finished leveraging the channel back towards the front of the vehicle EXACTLY as Ben described!
craig wrote at 2013-03-14 05:42:01
thanks very helpful save me on spending money was easy to fix