Expert: Rob Painter, ASE, CFL, CFEI - 4/30/2009

Question
QUESTION: I have a 2000 Malibu that cranks but will not start, and NONE of the dash panel lights go on. The radio, horn, wipers, doors, etc operate. Have not checked fuel pressure or ignition, as I feel that the ignition switch is likely at fault. I removed the two ignition switch-lock bolts and the assembly moves. Since this assembly is separate from the steering column, I feel that there is a column lock mechanism from the switch to the column. Also, I am unable to follow the harness. Since this seems like a monumental task, I decided on the obvious like the fuses and relays-no luck here either. MitchelOnDemands describes that when a "Correct mechanical key turns a "PASSLOCK" cylinder, a resistance code (R Code) is created by a rotating magnet turning past a Hall sensor, etc., etc., etc. Resistance varies from vehicle to vehicle. This sounds great for those vehicles that came with a resistor in the key, which was keyed to the ignition switch.  All I have is a lowly Malibu with a regular key and beeper.  This beeper sets off the alarm, locks and opens the doors and sets the alarm, which I believe is not the complicated PASSLOCK system. Am I correct in suspecting the ignition switch, or is there something else I could check.  Also, I read where there is a yellow wire that can be cut to disable the alarm.  Also, how can I remove the ignition switch/lock assembly. Any ideas? thanks.

ANSWER: Hello,

Please read my answer in its entirity.

The 2000 Malibu does not employ a locking steering wheel. The shifter for the trans has two locks. One that requires the brake to be depressed when shifting, the other cable controlled which connects on the back of the lock housing in the dash, to lock into park.

Yes, you have an ordinary key, but you have PASSLOCK which when the ignition lock is rotated, sends the signal of the rotation of the ignion lock (1 of 10 different resistance codes, built into the ignition housing and a magnet on the outside of the ignition lock plug (where key is inserted) by hall effect switch that goes through the instrument cluster and to the vehicle's computer.

This piece of garbage termed "anti-theft" only prevents unauthorized operation when the ignition lock cylinder or housing is ripped from the dash. That's it!!

It's sloppy tollerances, even when new do not require a key cut correctly to operate the lock. One close in cuts will work. When the lock has had more key insertions over time even more keys will work until it is worn enough that no key is needed. Yeah, a real fine security measure. Designed by engineers that have no experience with real life situations as it relates to theft.

Your problem and many others are the result of letting the factory installing antiquated junk in our new cars termed as "anti-theft" and alarm systems.

What was evidently not thought out by these manufacturers is that it takes roughly 3 years for development before the product gets installed on the line. Look how antiquated a computer is after 6 months.

The other problem is when a thief lears how to defeat your Malibu. This process can be applied to all GM cars with PASSLOCK.

I am slamming all manufacturers, not just GM!

Your remote transmitter of which you call a beeper also known as keyless entry. This has nothing to do with PASSLOCK. These are two seperate systems, so don't mess with it!

My concern is that you say you have no dash lights. The instrument panel is tied into the PASSLOCK, which could direct to your problem at hand.

Until these lights function, the car is not going to start.

The electrical ignition switch could be the problem, but I have rarely seen it. You need to do some testing. Remove the two 10 mm head bolts after you have pulled out the decrotive dash panel that hides the housing. The panel is just clipped in and all you need to do is gently grab the panel evenly on each side and jiggle it out with even pressure.

Remove the stereo. This will give you the access you need to get at the back of the electrical switch. Check the heavy red wires for power either with a test light or meter. Then turn the key and see if there are heavy 12 guage wires that have power only with the ignition on. If not, you need a switch/ housing assembly.

In the event that you find the electrical ignition switch is bad, you need to disconnect the electrical connection on the back of the switch. You will have to remove the park cable by releasing the ball on the cable and then inserting an ice pick or a small screwdriver into it's housing mounting. Reverse the order to reinstall.

To remove the lock from the housing (I don't have one in front of me at the moment, so please bare with me)put the lock cylinder in the RUN position. On the outside of the ignition housing, you will find a pin hole to isert a ice pick in. Depress this pin and pull the cylinder out.

In the even you change the ignition housing there are as I stated one of 10 different ones. To reset the ignition switch to your car, after everything is all connected, rotate the lock to on where the dash lights come on. Leave on for 10 min. Shut off, turn on for 10 min. Turn off and leave in ON position one more time. This process takes 30 minutes. Not 10, not 20, but 30 minutes. Your ingion will now be programmed to the vehicle.

As I stated though, the dash lights have to illuminate for the PASSLOCK to work.

If you do have switched power-because there is no problem in the ignition switch. Check the guage fuse. In the even that is good, you will have a problem possibly in the cluster or a connection going to it.

Do not cut the yellow wire!!! I don't even know if this works in cars. It does in the trucks, but there are specific instructions for this process and don't try it and in the vehicle's present condition, all you will do is create more problems which you do not need.

Some of the information I see on the Internet about bypassing factory installed anti-theft systems is completely bogus and much of this information has to be taken with a grain of salt.

My background in auto theft/ security/ vehicle fire is very extensive with the direct repair of more than 10,000 theft recoveries.
Unlike the general technicial, I specialized in steering columns, ignitions, transponders and other anti theft devices.

We did not serve as some as mindless monkeys working on these vehicles. When I say that I refer to these so-called expert locksmiths that give opinions on how a reported stolen vehicle was last operated. These guys followed the books as to how to reprogram anti-theft systems and how to make keys. We wrote the books!!!

If I sound arrogant, I am not however I am very confident in what I know.

I hope I assisted you with your problem.

Good Luck,

Rob







---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi Rob, you're answer is right on. Also MitchelOnDemand had the same info you provided. One seemingly unlikely suggestion on the Internet eventually helped get the car started.  It said spray contact cleaner into the key hole to clear away the dust which interferes with proper rotation of the magnet and Hall Switch.  Since this resulted in an INTERMITTENT START condition, I knew I was on the right track.  I was able to remove the switch quite easily by removing the instrument cluster. Since the cluster harness would not disconnect and it was long, I was able to place the cluster on top of the panel. Through a large opening above the switch, I pulled the switch, disconnected the lock cable and harness. To disconnect the Hall Effect harness, I had to first remove the lock cylinder as you described.  With the switch in hand, I called the dealer for the bad news.  They told me the switch and lock cylinder came as a kit for $165 and a locksmith would have to key the new cylinder to the original key. I asked the dealer about the problem, and they told me this was a common, but couldn't help me any further. Anyway, the town expert mechanic told me to disconnect the Hall Switch and the car will start normally.  I tried this and, THE CLUSTER LIGHTS LIT BUT THE ENGINE WOULD START AND STALL. He also showed me a disassembled lock cylinder which helped. To back-track, I reassembled the switch and surprisingly, all was back to normal. I disassembled the switch once again, cleaned it and reassembled it.  That was yesterday evening.  This morning the car started normally. I also reset the lock cylinder according to you're instructions.  At this point, the only logical explanation is that somehow the ignition lock got reset. Another possibility, are poor connections, that were re-established when the connectors were disconnected and reconnected. Another less likely, is the ignition switch itself. Or maybe, it was the contact cleaner that did the trick.  As you probably know, the Hall Switch is attached to the lock cylinder. I would imagine this lock cylinder should be available with a new key and Hall switch.  Although I blame Internet for so much lost productivity, I don't think I would have gotten the help I got without it. Dealers aren't much help. Either they don't want to or don't know how to help.  With all the information sorted out into fact and fiction, I am now probably the town expert, at least as a 2000 Malibu Anti Theft systems go. And if anyone wants to know, I will try and point them in the right direction. The owner picked up the car at 8:00 AM and around 4:00 drove by, blowing the horn and waving....so far so good. If I find out exactly what happened to this vehicle, I will let you know.   It's still a mystery because all I did was to disassemble, clean and reassemble the same parts. Once again, thanks for you're help.

Answer
Hi,

I believed this was a no-start and had I known it was intermittent, I could have told you about the problem with the lock housing and cylinder. The lock plug is exposed to the housing in PASSLOCK vehicles. Very common for lock lubricant to sling inside the ignition lock housing and effect the magnetic field.

On these I recommend pulling the plug (where the key is inserted) spaying the outside with electrical contact cleaner and wipe it off. Do the same to the inside of the lock housing and reinstall the lock.

This was a very common intermitant no start problem with PASSLOCK.

One guy wrote me and ripped me because he never heard of such a problem. I just figured he had never been exposed to these as often as I.

Glad it worked out.

I would appreciate a rating.

Thanks,

Rob


Here you go, trying to use logic again (LOL). It's obvious that when the locks were built buy Strattec for GM, one hand didn't know what the other was doing. In many instances, graphite grease was used for lock lubricant in the vehicles I repaired for intermittent no starts!

Many of the GM lock cylinders I disassembled were filled with black/gray graphite.

Rob

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