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About William Forster
Expertise
22 year veteran, 2 years of vocational training. A.S.E. certified Master collision repair/refinish technician. I-CAR certified. 17 yrs. GM experience. I can answer most questions related to automotive body repairs, ranging from small scratch repairs all the way up to the most extensive collision repairs. I can expertly advise people on what to expect from their body shop experience, right down to what self repairs should, and should not, be done. Lastly, I can advise tricks and tips for classic car restoration, such as lead repairs. SORRY, I DO NOT DO ONLINE ESTIMATES OR GIVE PARTS PRICES!! BE PREPARED FOR THE CORRECT ANSWER- NOT THE ONE YOU WANT TO HEAR. I won't B.S. you, or sugar coat answers. Just plain, hard facts.

Experience
1983-85 vocational school training 1992 PPG certified refinish technician/ 1994-1996 Chevrolet certified Journeyman technician 1997-present ASE certified Master collision repair/refinish technician/estimator. 1998 I-car structural repair certification
Past/Present clients
Just about every major insurance company in NW Ohio

You are here: Experts > Autos > Auto Parts > Auto body repair & detailing > lead removal

Auto body repair & detailing - lead removal

Expert: William Forster - 11/7/2009

Question
I'm restoring a car and need to remove a lead seam from a quarter panel that I'm replacing. Do I just melt the lead out with a torch? When sanding old paint off a lead seam or melting the lead, what health precautions should I take to avoid exposure to he lead?

Thanks,
-Brian

Answer
I would use a torch, BUT- if you are replacing quarters, they were generally never sectioned at the lead seam. The lead seam should be left intact, and the quarter sectioned in below the lead seam somewhere in the sail panel. Unless you know how to lead, and intend to re-lead the seam back in, section it and leave the lead seam alone. lead cannot be replaced with body filler in the seams- if it could have been, the car manufacturers wouldn't have used an expensive and heavy product like lead to fill seams. If you insist upon doing this, be sure to wear a respirator when grinding or heating lead. When working with lead or solder, be sure to have an exhaust fan going at all times. Wear a full face shield when grinding lead, I even suggest long sleeves and a skull cap of some sort. It's a heavy metal- all heavy metals are poisonous. Lead collects in the body- it tends to stay with you for a long time. Not good. yet nother reason to avoid the lead seams. Bill

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