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Auto body repair & detailing/84 Fiero
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Question
Im considering painting my Fiero but since it is fiber glass i don't know if i should use paint striper. Let me know if i could, and other alternatives. And also where could i get the paint to match the original color. And what primer do i use for fiber glass, and what primer do i use for plastic parts.
No...there's no reason to strip the car...why do it?
Either wet sand it or dry sand it with a D and A.
As for matching paints...any good paint store can help you there. They can mix it by the code or by a camera. They can adjust for it UV. They can tint it. You name it...they can do it.
Your top coat determines the undercoat (primer coat). So if you're going to shoot it with lacquer paint, then you prime it with lacquer primer (I don't mean your Fiero); and if you paint it with anything else, then you prime it with enamel, a one stage, or a two stage undercoat--doesn't matter.
EXCEPTION: Flexible substrates (like flexible bumpers) are another animal--they get shot with a flexible paint, but fiberglass is painted like a steel panel...don't think so, those old vettes were painted in lacquer.
I know the Fiero is like a Lumina...flexable, but its not a bumper, but it does flex, so lacquer is out...that leaves enamel or base-coat clear-coat...hmm...tough call...lets see, tractor trailers are painted with enamel, so I guess I would go with BC/CC.
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Answers by Expert:
Cameron Orsich
Expertise
NOTE: MY EXPERTISE IS AUTO BODY...PLEASE limit your questions to the subject of GENERAL AUTO BODY PANEL QUESTIONS...you know: OlD Fashioned, Do It Yourself, By Hand, Back Yard, Under Shop Lights at 3:00 AM AUTO BODY QUESTIONS. I can answer auto body questions for any make, model, or year regarding replacing valances, door skins, fenders, etc... I can also answer questions on how to grind, weld, fiberglass, fill, paste and spray top coat, feather, mask, prime, paint (enamel, lacquer, base-coat/clear-coat), touch-up, melt-in, wet sand, wool polish, sponge polish, finesse, and much, much, more...to much to list here. I love air tools, but if you don't have any...no problem...as I can answer all your questions on how to achieve superb results doing it yourself...the old fashioned way...by hand. If you want a shop answer, go to a shop and pay someone to do it for you. If you want to take pride in doing it yourself, just ask someone who's been there and done that--me, Big CO. I'm available to answer general Auto Body questions for those whom want to do it themselves. Please...no collision, basket case, or train wreck questions. If you have something special that you want to fix, paint, or restore yourself; but don't know how, you've come to the right place...ask me...Big CO, the neighborhood know it all with the shop lights on all night
Experience
Having put myself and my brother through college in the late 80's and early 90's buying and selling over 250 cars. I restored my first car, a '72 350 Chevelle Malibu 4 barrel, in 1978 at just 16 years old. From there, I never looked back...usually restoring classics or sport cars: 340 Cuda's, 396 SS Chevelle's, Novas, Dusters, late 60's Mustang Convertibles, GTO Judges, 455 Buick Grand Sports, about a dozen 280ZX's ('79-'83)--the most recent, in July of '06, I sold a '83 280ZX on cars.com to a gentleman that flew in from Colorado to my state of Ohio just to purchase it from me. As for experience: Have replaced valances, door skins, fenders. Have grounded, welded, fiberglassed, filled, pasted and sprayed top coat, feathered, masked, primed, painted (enamel, lacquer, base-coat/clear-coat), touched-up, melted-in, wet sanded, wool polished, sponge polished, finessed, and much, much, more...to much to list here.
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