Auto body repair & detailing/Ahmad

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Question
Hello. About a week a go i bought this spray called night shades. What it does is it sprays the headlights and tail lights black or basically smokes them out. Today i was doing my front head lights on my civic like the corners where the signals are and i made sure i taped up the corners and edges around the light. I know that i should have taken the lights out but its so hard and it like requires to remove the bumper. So i taped up the edges of the lights and me being an idiot and listening to my friend, put a newspaper around there incase the spray got on to the car. i did the lights fine but all the excess spray drops leaked through the papers and went on to my bumper. i tried removing it with paint thinner but it didn't do nothing. I'm really upset and my parents will flip out if they see this. Is there any possible way i can remove the paint spray or whatever it is? Please if u can help me out, that'd be amazing. The spray once again is called Night Shades. Thank you so much.

Arslan

Answer
The following information is what I usually send, but I would go to the nail polish remover...don't think so...try it...it can cut stuff lacquer thinner can't....good luck.

Try these common household items in an inconspicuous area first. If they are to solvent or not solvent enough, go to the professional items found in the lower list.

Gasoline-weak.
Lighter fluid-weak.
Lacquer Thinner-make sure its lacquer thinner, not enamel.
Westly's Bleach White-one of my favorites.
Nail Polish Remover--this one may surprise you.
Bug and Tar remover-medium.

Try the more volatile ones (like lacquer thinner) in an inside door jam first, to see if it cuts your paint...as if your original paint should be OK—especially if its a two part catalyzed system, but may cut non-original finishes.


Ok...so you tried the above, and no go.  Go to a real Auto Body store—the store where body shops buy from.

Tell the guy at the Auto Body store that you're looking for a couple of clean-up solvents--one volatile enough to cut primer over-spray, road grime, and tar; the other, just moderate--barely volatile, just enough to wipe down your freshly primed work area just prior to painting.

Try these, but be careful.  The strong type works twice as good as the best bug and tar remover, but won't cut your original paint.  I say be careful, because it can discolor things like flat black bumpers, trim, etc...

The moderate one is more like your bug and tar remover, but with a longer dry time.  Its really used to wipe down an entire car, including freshly sprayed primer, just prior to painting.  Its good for removing grime, and it may be enough to cut through your sap; if not, go to the stronger solvent.

Auto body repair & detailing

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Cameron Orsich

Expertise

NOTE: MY EXPERTISE IS AUTO BODY...PLEASE limit your questions to the subject of GENERAL AUTO BODY PANEL QUESTIONS...you know: OlD Fashioned, Do It Yourself, By Hand, Back Yard, Under Shop Lights at 3:00 AM AUTO BODY QUESTIONS. I can answer auto body questions for any make, model, or year regarding replacing valances, door skins, fenders, etc... I can also answer questions on how to grind, weld, fiberglass, fill, paste and spray top coat, feather, mask, prime, paint (enamel, lacquer, base-coat/clear-coat), touch-up, melt-in, wet sand, wool polish, sponge polish, finesse, and much, much, more...to much to list here. I love air tools, but if you don't have any...no problem...as I can answer all your questions on how to achieve superb results doing it yourself...the old fashioned way...by hand. If you want a shop answer, go to a shop and pay someone to do it for you. If you want to take pride in doing it yourself, just ask someone who's been there and done that--me, Big CO. I'm available to answer general Auto Body questions for those whom want to do it themselves. Please...no collision, basket case, or train wreck questions. If you have something special that you want to fix, paint, or restore yourself; but don't know how, you've come to the right place...ask me...Big CO, the neighborhood know it all with the shop lights on all night

Experience

Having put myself and my brother through college in the late 80's and early 90's buying and selling over 250 cars. I restored my first car, a '72 350 Chevelle Malibu 4 barrel, in 1978 at just 16 years old. From there, I never looked back...usually restoring classics or sport cars: 340 Cuda's, 396 SS Chevelle's, Novas, Dusters, late 60's Mustang Convertibles, GTO Judges, 455 Buick Grand Sports, about a dozen 280ZX's ('79-'83)--the most recent, in July of '06, I sold a '83 280ZX on cars.com to a gentleman that flew in from Colorado to my state of Ohio just to purchase it from me. As for experience: Have replaced valances, door skins, fenders. Have grounded, welded, fiberglassed, filled, pasted and sprayed top coat, feathered, masked, primed, painted (enamel, lacquer, base-coat/clear-coat), touched-up, melted-in, wet sanded, wool polished, sponge polished, finessed, and much, much, more...to much to list here.

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