Expert: William Forster - 9/11/2007

Question
Would you elaborate about preporation regarding lead body repairs?
Any good books on the subject that you would recommend?

Those guys on the restoration shows never show the whole story.

Thank,John

Answer
preparation is pretty straight forward. All galvanized coatings must be completely ground off, all paint must be removed, all rust completely sand blasted out. Lead actually likes sand blasted steel. I highly suggest having some heat sinking putty around the spot. Play-Doh will work, but dries out quickly. First, you need to tin the area with acid core solder, go beyond the area you intend to lead. Then, you apply lead. You work and smooth lead with heat and wooden lead paddles. The paddles are occasionally dipped in beeswax to keep lead from sticking, and to cool the paddles. The wax comes in a little tub, it's hard like a candle. It must be melted wit the torch, but just enough to sorta dip the paddle in. Lead is a joy to work with. Unlike bondo, it can be reworked once it's hard. Just heat it up and paddle it out. I like to work it with a body file, it cuts fast, and body files were made for working lead. You can also sand it conventionally with sandpaper, and should final sand with some 180 on a DA if you do all the work with a metal file. Once you are done, the area must be wet sanded with 320 wet or dry paper to remove any acid from the tinning process. Hope this makes things a little clearer for you. I don't know of any good books on the subject, sorry. I was taught by an old pro, he was taught by his uncles. Bill