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hi my name is Ryan im 20 years old and from Australia. Over the past few years i have acquired 4 of the same model cars of the same shape, so i have an abundance of parts and panels in varying conditions. Build dates range between 77 and 79 and living on the coast theres a fair bit of rust. I have decided i don't have the skills or equipment to weld panels however i want to do most of the prep work myself. I also have no space in which i could spray a car although i cold borrow a compressor gun etc. Which brings me to my question how to treat the paint that is in ok condition and removing small dents in the doors. i should also mention that im changing the colour of the car.
I would do all the body work myself...by hand, then take it to a paint shop...I use to mask it off myself for two reasons: 1.) Because I would do it right (no overspay on anything), and 2.) To save money.
If you have rust holes...in lieu of welding them shut, indent the holes around the edge with a hammer so you can fill the area with fiberglass. Fiberglass isn't made for molding and shaping...just fill the areas with it, but not over the flush point, as you'll fill in any remaining depressions with bondo, sand, then fill the deep scratches in the bondo with top coat (a two part paste like product that mixes and goes on like bondo, but sands off easily so you don't disturb the contouring you achieved with the sanding of the bondo), prime, wet sand the primer, mask.
As for existing paint...same thing as primer, just wet sand the gloss out of the paint so the new paint will stick to it.
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Answers by Expert:
Cameron Orsich
Expertise
NOTE: MY EXPERTISE IS AUTO BODY...PLEASE limit your questions to the subject of GENERAL AUTO BODY PANEL QUESTIONS...you know: OlD Fashioned, Do It Yourself, By Hand, Back Yard, Under Shop Lights at 3:00 AM AUTO BODY QUESTIONS. I can answer auto body questions for any make, model, or year regarding replacing valances, door skins, fenders, etc... I can also answer questions on how to grind, weld, fiberglass, fill, paste and spray top coat, feather, mask, prime, paint (enamel, lacquer, base-coat/clear-coat), touch-up, melt-in, wet sand, wool polish, sponge polish, finesse, and much, much, more...to much to list here. I love air tools, but if you don't have any...no problem...as I can answer all your questions on how to achieve superb results doing it yourself...the old fashioned way...by hand. If you want a shop answer, go to a shop and pay someone to do it for you. If you want to take pride in doing it yourself, just ask someone who's been there and done that--me, Big CO. I'm available to answer general Auto Body questions for those whom want to do it themselves. Please...no collision, basket case, or train wreck questions. If you have something special that you want to fix, paint, or restore yourself; but don't know how, you've come to the right place...ask me...Big CO, the neighborhood know it all with the shop lights on all night
Experience
Having put myself and my brother through college in the late 80's and early 90's buying and selling over 250 cars. I restored my first car, a '72 350 Chevelle Malibu 4 barrel, in 1978 at just 16 years old. From there, I never looked back...usually restoring classics or sport cars: 340 Cuda's, 396 SS Chevelle's, Novas, Dusters, late 60's Mustang Convertibles, GTO Judges, 455 Buick Grand Sports, about a dozen 280ZX's ('79-'83)--the most recent, in July of '06, I sold a '83 280ZX on cars.com to a gentleman that flew in from Colorado to my state of Ohio just to purchase it from me. As for experience: Have replaced valances, door skins, fenders. Have grounded, welded, fiberglassed, filled, pasted and sprayed top coat, feathered, masked, primed, painted (enamel, lacquer, base-coat/clear-coat), touched-up, melted-in, wet sanded, wool polished, sponge polished, finessed, and much, much, more...to much to list here.
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