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About Ben Deutschman
Expertise
Questions ONLY related to Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge Slant-Sixes from 1960-1975. You can ask me about Engine Timing, general specifications, do`s and don`ts, and details such as proper installation of `Spark Plugs` on the 1960-74 `Slant-Sixes.`

Experience
I own and work on a 1960 plymouth, powered by a 'Slant-Six', have also worked on a 1968 'Slant-Six', a 1975, a 1964, and and 1970 'Slant-Six'

Organizations
Ben Deutschman
POCI Legislative Liaison
President Of The NY/NJ Slant-Six Club Of America
http://www.poci.org
http://bencar.freeyellow.com/76TAPage.html
http://bencar.freeyellow.com/benscarpage.html
http://clubs.hemmings.com/frameset.cfm?club=nynjslant6 (NY/NJ Slant-Six Club Of America Website)


Publications
Smoke Signals (Pontiac-Oakland Club International)
Hemmings Motor News


Education/Credentials
B.A 'Labor Relations', 'Rutgers University' (Livingston College Campus)

 
   

You are here:  Experts > Industry > Transportation and Logistics > Automotive > slant six distributor

Automotive - slant six distributor


Expert: Ben Deutschman - 3/24/2008

Question
I'm working on a 64 Dart with a 225, the dist turns by hand, the bolt that goes into the block is tight but the other bolt you see from the bottom is loose and the dist moves at that point. Is that normal, what is the official timing method, any info on timing the motor would be appreciated

Answer
There are two bolts on the Distributor Hold-Down, one on the bottom of the Hold-Down that you don't touch, and one visible from above, which you need only loosen (with a 7/16 Socket) just enough, that you can move the Distributor with a minimal degree of force. You also need to remove, and temporarily plug, the 'Vacuum Advance Line' coming from the Carburetor to the Distributor. Then you need to find, and mark (with a Grease Pen, or Small Paint Brush & White Paint), both the rotating 'Timing Mark', found on the 'Vibration Damper' (Pulley closest to the 'Timing Cover'), and the appropriate 'Timing Mark' on the Stationary 'Timing Tab.' You then need to start the Engine, let it get fully warmed up, and set the 'Curb Idle', which for most 60's Slant-Sixes', was 550-650 in Drive. Make sure you have someone helping you to do this part of the job. Once the idle is set, shut off the engine, then connect your 'Timing Light' to #1 Plug Wire, and the other leads to the appropriate terminals on the Battery. Restart the Engine, then aim the 'Timing Light' at the 'Stationary Timing Tab.' The 'Rotating Mark' should be visible as it passes by the 'Stationary Timing Tab.' The spec for most early Slant-Sixes was 2-1/2 to a maximum 5 Degrees 'Before Top Dead Center' (BTDC), and is determined by moving the loosened Distributor, until the 'Rotating Timing Mark', and the correct 'Degree Mark' on the 'Timing Tab', line up with each other. Once you've set the correct timing, tighten the 'Distributor Hold-Down Bolt', and recheck your Timing. Occasionally the Distributor will move ever so slightly when tightening the 'Hold-Down Bolt', and if it does, you'll have to loosen the Bolt, and reset the Timing.

When you're done, DO NOT forget to unplug the 'Vacuum Advance Line', and reconnect it to the 'Distributor Vacuum Advance.'

Make sure that the other Bolt, the one under the Distributor, is tight, before making ANY adjustments.

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