Automotive/1073 slant six

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Expert: - 2/13/2010


Question
how do i change the points i want to put a new set in thanks

Answer

Slant-Six Engine Typic
On All Chrysler products from the 1960's, through the last of the Distributor equipped models, the Distributor Cap is removed by carefully popping off the Clips holding the Cap on each side. The Rotor should then slide off easily. If it is stuck, and you have to yank on it, make sure you wiggle the Rotor upon installing the new one. Otherwise, you may jam the Distributor 'Drive Gear', which is made of Nylon, and it will shear off. Then you'll be removing the Distributor to replace that Gear, assuming you can still get one from 'Help/Motormite' at your local Auto Parts Store. Once the Rotor is off, have someone bump the Ignition Switch, until the 'Points' are on one of the Lobes in the Distributor. Then, carefully remove the Screw holding the 'Points', and carefully remove the Nut holding the 'Condenser' wire to the 'Points' themselves. Then remove the 'Condenser' Screw, and the 'Condenser' and 'Holding Bracket.' Be VERY careful NOT to drop any of the Screws or Nuts in the Distributor, or you WILL be pulling the Distributor to get those parts out of it. If you do have to remove the Distributor, pay very close attention to where the Rotor was pointing before loosening the 'Distributor Hold Down Bolt.' Make sure the Rotor lines up to the same point when reinstalling the Distributor, or your car may not start. Also, carefully wiggle the Distributor out when removing, and installing it. Again, wiggle the Rotor once the Distributor is fully seated on the Engine.

Once the new points are installed, and the Condenser Wire and Condenser are installed and connected, check the 'Air Gap' on the Points with a Flat 'Feeler Gauge.' The gap should be .017-.020 maximum. You need to leave the screw holding the Points, just a little bit loose, in order to move the fixed part of the assembly, so you can adjust the 'Air Gap' on the 'Points.' A flat bladed Screwdriver, inserted between the Distributor Cam Lobe, and the base of the fixed part of the 'Points Assembly', will allow you to open the 'Points', as you carefully turn the Blade of the Screwdriver between the locations mentioned above. To close the 'Air Gap', find a location between the fixed part of the 'Points' assembly, and the inside of the Distributor, that will allow you to turn the Screwdriver Blade, in order to close the 'Air Gap' on the 'Points.' Do NOT force the 'Feeler Gauge' in between the 'Points' to check the 'Air Gap.' The 'Feeler Gauge' should fit in with a slight drag, but the blade of the 'Feeler Gauge' should NOT force the 'Points' open.

Once you have the 'Air Gap' set correctly, reinstall the Rotor, paying attention to the Slot on the top of the Distributor Shaft it fits on. There is a corresponding Tab inside the Rotor the fits into that slot, and when you install the 'Rotor', you should feel it lock into that Tab, as you slowly, and carefully twist the 'Rotor' on to the 'Distributor Shaft.' Once the 'Rotor' is on, reinstall the 'Distributor Cap' and again, pay attention to the Tab on the 'Distributor' base, and the Slot in the Cap. The Cap should lock into the Tab on the 'Distributor's' base, and then, with your fingers, snap the 'Hold Down Clips' back into the Slots on the 'Distributor Cap.' If you've assembled everything correctly, your car should start and run. Then, with a 'Dwell Meter', check the 'Dwell.' You should have a reading of 42 degrees 'Dwell' at Idle, with the Vacuum Advance Hose' disconnected, and plugged (use a snug fitting screw to plug the Vacuum Line). If the 'Dwell' is more than a degree off, you will have to remove the Cap and the Rotor, and try either a smaller Gap setting (let's say .017, instead of .020), reassemble everything, start the car again, and recheck the 'Dwell.' Don't be surprised if you have to repeat this procedure a number of times, until you get the right 'Dwell' reading. DO NOT forget to reconnect the 'Vacuum Advance Hose', once the 'Dwell' is set, and make sure, before checking the 'Dwell', you have the correct idle speed setting (most 70 and newer cars have a Tag on one of the Inner Fenders with the specification, older cars, you'll have to get a Chilton's, or Haynes Manual for your car, or year range covering your car). Check the 'Timing' with a 'Timing Light', set it to spec by loosening the 'Distributor Hold Down Bolt', and turning the 'Distributor' counter-clockwise to advance the Timing, and clockwise to retard the Timing, checking along the way with your 'Timing Light', to see if the rotating mark on the Vibration Damper, matches up to the correct Mark on the Stationary 'Timing Tab.' Once the Timing is set, tighten the 'Distributor Hold Down Bolt', and recheck the 'Timing.' Sometimes, when you tighten the 'Distributor Hold Down Bolt', the 'Distributor' will walk slightly, and through off the 'Timing'. If that happens,loosen the 'Hold Down Bolt', and readjust the 'Timing' again, then retighten the Bolt, and check the 'Timing' again. The 'Hold Down Bolt' should be a 7/16 Head.

Ben Deutschman

Expertise

Questions ONLY related to Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge Slant-Sixes from 1960-1975. You can ask me about Engine Timing, general specifications, do`s and don`ts, and details such as proper installation of `Spark Plugs` on the 1960-74 `Slant-Sixes.`

Experience

I own and work on a 1960 plymouth, powered by a 'Slant-Six', have also worked on a 1968 'Slant-Six', a 1975, a 1964, and and 1970 'Slant-Six'

Organizations
Ben Deutschman
POCI Legislative Liaison
President Of The NY/NJ Slant-Six Club Of America
http://www.poci.org
http://bencar.freeyellow.com/76TAPage.html
http://bencar.freeyellow.com/benscarpage.html
http://clubs.hemmings.com/frameset.cfm?club=nynjslant6 (NY/NJ Slant-Six Club Of America Website)


Publications
Smoke Signals (Pontiac-Oakland Club International)
Hemmings Motor News


Education/Credentials
B.A 'Labor Relations', 'Rutgers University' (Livingston College Campus)

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