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Automotive/"79"G20 Van Headlights to Halogen Type
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Question
Very disappointed with the illumination of the old standard units as to what my 91 Buick has and the substantial difference my 2004 Acura TL puts out. Can I switch to Halogen type replacement that indicates a 50% increase over my old units? The plug-in are the same.
What you are proposing is one of the most common and effective upgrades that one may make to older sealed-beam tungsten lamp headlight systems. I have done a similar upgrade to that you propose on the 1978 Ford E250 which became my class-B motorhome conversion. I first did such a conversion on my 1959 Edsel Corsair in 1975, and that car has now been so equipped for seventy percent of its years on the road!
The conversion can be very easy if one performs only the basic task of replacing the existing sealed-beam units with transport-approved replacement halogen lamp reflectors and holders to accept the industry-common H4 dual-filament halogen lamp; this is the dual-beam lamp used in systems using dual (left and right) seven-inch round headlights, and also in the "number-1-outer" lamp place - or "bucket" as it is commonly called - of 5.25-inch quad headlight systems. In the latter case, you would also obtain reflectors and holders for H1 single-filament high-beam-only lamps for the "number-2-inner" bucket. H4 and H1 lamps each have connector bases that are identical to those used on the similar specification sealed-beam lamps.
Doing the above only would be generally be okay, provided you don't use lamps higher than the basic 55/60 Watt rating. Using higher rating lamps, 80/100 Watt for example, would necessitate the use of intermediate contactors or Headlight Relays. Actually, I highly recommend that ANY halogen lamp upgrade is best done including relays as a matter of course!
I cannot choose to describe in detail the proper installation of a relay system and the appropriate overcurrent protection (auto-reset thermal circuit breakers) as that would to be time-consuming. The idea however is that one install two (2) properly sized and rated automotive fully-enclosed relays, each with a 12VDC coil and single-pole single-throw (SPST) contact, one relay for the low-beam circuit and one for the high-beam circuit.
The relays can be mounted in a space conveniently accessible but sheltered from drainage water, ideally near the battery. The line side of the relay contact would be connected to either the alternator bus or to the battery positive pole via a 10A, 15A or even 20A CB, depending on the chosen power rating for the lamps used.
The low-beam circuit will drive two filaments; if these are 2x55W or 110W at 12V, suggesting a current draw of 9.2A ... To be noted: in operation, an automotive electrical systems produces 13.8 volts or more, so the actual wattage will climb as a square of the voltage, to about 145 Watts in this case .. . that would correspond to a current draw of about 10.5 A at 13.8 V, one might want to use a 10A CB, but do recognise that most overcurrent devices have a 110% service factor, and so will NOT ultimately trip until the current exceeds 1.1 x the continuous rating, or 11 A in this case.
The high-beam circuit will drive either two of four 60W or higher filaments. Total rated wattage multiplied by (13.8/12)^2 and then divided by 13.8 V will give you the running current for whatever you choose in that circuit.
The low-beam relay coil then is operated by one of the wires formerly used to drive a low-beam filament, and the high-beam relay coil similarly driven by one of the wires used to drive a high-beam filament. Unused wires should be capped off (using wirenuts filled with contact grease) for possible future use, or cut off if future use is not anticipated.
Hope this helps. Go for it!
Regards ... EGK
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Answers by Expert:
Ernest (Ernie) Kenward
Expertise
The challenges I most enjoy are thoughtful technical questions of a trouble-shooting nature in both electrical, power electronic and mechanical systems, mainly automotive but also machine control and small-machine PLC applications. Please note, however, that I am NOT a walking shop manual! I DO, however, make it a point to have those manuals and other service literature for those vehicles I DO own, and highly recommend that anyone serious about maintenance or modification of their vehicles do the same; MOST of your answers WILL be found there. For that matter, I do NOT go out of my way to acquire shop manuals for any vehicle I do NOT own! That being the case, any general query to me along the lines of "What is the meaning of this code read from the ECU of my 2015 XYZ?" or "Where is the fuse for the windshield washer pump found?" (try your car's electrical distribution panel for a start!) will not go far. What I do offer is a pretty good collection of literature, insights and hands-on experience with 1950s to 1980's Ford products (plus a developing database of information and practice with the Mercedes diesel cars), along with an engineering perspective and the ability to design and implement custom control, electrical and mechanical subsystems for vehicles. For that reason, I am happy to make my thoughts and efforts available to those who are of like mind and/or are seriously making a point of learning about their vehicles. Use the Opportunity to Learn!
Experience
A key skill in my work and hobby pursuits both is STRATEGIC TROUBLESHOOTING. I am a senior instructor in Electrical Engineering Technology at a leading Canadian polytechnic, my areas being Electrical Power and Industrial Control, electrical and electronics design and manufacturing, and AutoCAD and related CAD/CAE software - plus equipment problem-solving and new equipment design and prototyping.
Hobby-wise, I have 30-plus years of experience in auto restoration, mostly in electrical and mechanical systems. Ongoing projects include a 1959 Edsel Corsair, my 1978 Ford E250 class-B motorhome conversion, and the care and upkeep of my Mercedes 300CD.
My vehicles become engineering test beds for electrical and mechanical upgrades as ideas present themselves. This includes the design and production of circuit boards to restore or enhance features for which no OEM replacement parts are obtainable, or where better specifications or reliability can be had via newer concepts. Regarding the E250 RV conversion, I designed and continue to revise a custom power distribution system, managed by a Programmable Controller (PLC); this has made most revisions as easy as uploading new firmware as I develop it.
The "mini" PLC is a powerful device for custom automotive control systems. One good example (there are many) would be the Moeller "Easy Relay"; these offer a wealth of control, monitoring and variable-and-status display options for such projects. A good example project which has worked well is that one for my RV noted above, which has been on the job - revised in firmware only - for a decade now. It is a load management and charging control system to avoid the sulfation-induced early failure that often befalls deep-cycle batteries used in RV power applications. The battery installed in 2003 lasted long enough to more tnan pay for the PLC that contributed to its longer life ... and the PLC will be there for the next battery as well!
Organizations
IEEE - senior member ... past WCC Student Activities;
SME - senior member ... past chair, greater Vancouver chapter chair 318;
Edsel Owners' Club - have served in various capacities on chapter executive during seventies;
have been Power and Driveline resource on the Edsel Owners' Club "E-team" for more than a decade.
Education/Credentials
Graduate of UBC
Awards and Honors
Certificates of appreciation from IEEE and SME for work in student and chapter activities
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