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Automotive/Timing for a 1990 S-10 Blazer 4.3

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Question
 I just replaced the entire distributor on my S-10 Blazer 4.3. I marked the housing/engine timing and the rotor placement. I transferred the marks over to the new dist. (I know this is just a ballpark guess.) After replacing the distributor the engine started fine. The truck starts and runs ok until you try to speed up.  It runs sluggish until the engine levels out again. Now the problem, the label on the front that has the timing setting is scratched off.  I also can't find the timing advance unit that is supposed to be located under the right side near the oil filter.  The book I have (Hayes, I think) says to disconnect it while setting the timing.  I'm 53 and have done this the "old school way" by ear and feel but I can't find a setting that makes the truck run right at all speeds.
Do you have any suggestions??
Thanks in advance.
Jerry

Answer
Jerry,
  Please look at my profile. I'm a Parts Professional, NOT a tech. My Degree in Automotive is from 1973. I basically went straight into parts. But I have some thoughts to offer.
  You can't time the engine, if I understand you correctly. You can use a vacuum gauge to get you pretty close. Find a manifold vacuum source. You DO NOT want ported vacuum. Hook up a vacuum gauge. Start the engine and loosen the distributor. Advance and retard the distributor while watching the vacuum gauge. When the vacuum reaches it's highest point, retard the distributor 2 inches of vacuum and lock it down. That should get you into a degree or two of where the engine wants to be.
  I don't have any books on your truck, it is too new. I'm an OLD Parts Specialist. If I were you, I'd go to the Public Library and look in the Reference Section for a better book than Haynes. The book is good but there are better. I don't think your truck has a vacuum advance. I think that is all done through the computer. I'm not sure, however.  
  Now to the warnings!!!
  HEI is a very good system with a LOT of voltage. You want to protect yourself from getting shocked. You might want to lay a rubber fender cover on the fender to keep you from touching the body of the car. You might want to wear tennis shoes with rubber souls. You might want to wear thick rubber gloves, all of this to protect you from getting shocked. I was told in school that "electricity seeks it's own ground". True unless you are working on a car. That electricity will seek ground anywhere and it is usually the guy working on the distributor!!!! Be careful. If your heart is like mine... well you know.
  This is about all I can think of and damage I can do. I would have taken your letter to work to let some of my customers look at it but they are "book learned" Techs with very little real world, seat of the pants, shade tree, country engineered education. While I think the world of them on newer cars, they haven't learned how to "fix it with a screw driver, bailing wire and duct tape".
  Keep me informed as to how you go. Thank you for your question. I'm not going anywhere...
Skip

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Skip Bollinger

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Heretofore, I will NOT answer any mechanical question. I am not qualified and can only offer speculations. You are better served by others that are true Techs. With that being said, please only ask about parts and locating obsolete Auto Parts. Thank you. I have the ability to locate quite a few mechanical parts for American made vehicles fron the 1900`s to present. Some are OEM and some are aftermarket. This would include engine, brake and chassis parts. Body parts and trim are VERY difficult to find but you may inquire. If you need assistance in repair, I have illustrated books for major American manufacturers that show some illustrations BEFORE 1974. If needed, I can supply repair manuals for your specific vehicle. PLEASE REMEBER I'M A PARTS SPECIALIST, NOT A TECH!! Thank you.. Skip

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