Expert: Sean Halliday - 8/4/2006

Question

-------------------------

Followup To

Question -

-------------------------

Followup To
Okay Sean I followed your directions to the T but now it wont start at all. I got to TDC piston on #1 all the way to the top with the straw crank at 0 cam at E on cam sprocket lined up with mark on valve cover. Distributor runs counterclockwise and wires are 1342 got spark got fuel got no start. Check every wire for spark replaced plugs checked compression valve adjustment on the money by the book and still no start. Is it possible the distributor is in wrong. I lined it to # 1 cylinder wire at the top of the distr. cap far left. If that makes a difference. I rotated the crank by hand with the ignition on and watched every spark hit at #1. DO you see my frustrations now? Got a good answer I havent tried?

Question -
Ive got and have had many Trackers and Sidekicks but this particular 1995 sidekick 16 valve 1.6 is wearing on me. Just purchased and it ran bad then. Found timing out  and blown head gasket and wires crossed. Broke out Haynes manual and its information is wrong. So far replaced the timing belt,  adj. valves, repositioned distributor on tdc #1 cylinder on the intake stroke, replaced wires and spark plugs drained fuel tank because it smelt like varnish. Refilled fuel and added injection cleaner. It still hard starts runs horrible and lack of power. No check engine light on. There is spark and fuel pressure. It doesnt seem to be overheating when I do get it to fire off and hold an idle. There is a funny noise coming from either the air box up to or inside the intake. Its not a misfire though. Its like a sensor opening and closing or a valve of some sort. EGR MAP AIS TPS PCM !@#$% Im lost! No Check Engine Light on but it may have been disconnected. Ill check this morning to see if thats  the case. Ive disconnect the battery numerous times to reset everything but no go it still runs poor. firing order that it seems to like most is 1243 distributer runs counterclockwise and the Haynes Manual differs completely.

Answer -
I assume you changed the intake gaskets,,,the firing order should be 1342,,,most 4 cylinders are this,if you have the timing right which it sounds like you dont.The marks on the crank at TDC ,,on the compression stroke will line up.That is, the camshaft is lined up with the marks on the cylinder head and the crank is in line with the mark on the timing cover,,,0.degress,,,,this can be off even by one tooth and the car will run badly so make sure that it is exactly where its supposed to be.Dont forget to turn the engine about 4 full turns to ensure the marks are still lined up because it sometimes moves when the tension is taken up by the tensioner,remove spark plugs as its easier to turn.When youre sure the valve timing is right then all you have to do is use your strobe light to set the ignition timing by turning the distributor either way (after you have it running),until you have the correct setting usually 10,15 degress BTDC,,,,The valve timing is always set on the COMPRESSION stroke thats when the piston is at the top firing ,make sure you have this right or it will never run. Best way is to watch the valves on number one and when both are closed ,cam lobes are both facing up,or away from the cylinder,then look at the camshaft mark which should be close to the  mark on the cylinder head.After you get this right line up your crank at 0 degress,if you use a straw put it in the bore and you will feel the piston moving up as you turn the crank.Thats TDC,,then put the distributor as close to number one  as you can.I have seen timing belts a tooth out and they run exactly like you describe your problem,so check it again as the books are rarely wrong.....the funny noise you say is the timing ...the engine is firing before the piston is fully at the top...or on its way down the bore ,it will more than likely cause the car to diesel or run on when its hot and the ignition is turned off this is pre ignition,,,,,,again timing,,,,,

Answer -
so,,,all cars need 3 things to run correctly,1.spark.2.the correct fuel mixture.3.compression.All of these must be at the right time to fire the engine...that is TDC.One of these is not right so lets go back and look.The spark is good?...a big fat blue spark?...fuel mix is ok,,,,im assuming the gas is good as you said you changed it because it smelt like varnish,,,?How long was the car not used for?Was it off the road for a reason?..I know you said the head gasket was blown so im also assuming thats why.Compression on all cylinders will be around the 140 lbs mark or there abouts psi,,,,anything less than 90 psi isnt good.Even though the engine runs counter clockwise ,the firing order is definately 1342.Watch the valves go through their cycle as you crank the engine by hand and also look at the distributor as it turns,When each cylinder is TDC with both valves closed(cam lobes up or away from the cylinder) the rotor will point at the contact for that cylinder.If everything is positioned right the car should run.So try all of this again and see whats happening.You may have the distributor a half turn out as i have seen this happen.Also it may be the fuel...if you have the valve timing correct and youre sure everything is in the right order look at the injectors and make sure they are working,,and the plugs are getting fuel,they will be soaked in fuel if youre cranking the engine and it doesnt start.If theyre dry then its fuel problems,,

Well I did it again and everything timing wise is right. I took the plugs out one by one and the number one plug was not saturated with fuel but the others where. Ohm the injector it seems to be within specs. What should I do now? Could it be distributor or maybe ECM?

Answer
i would test the ignition module for correct ohms,sounds like electrics,,,,,,thats if all is timed right and good compression,You will need to get it tested at NAPA or PEPBOYS,i have seen these modules go out for no reason,,,,,,not enough spark and the car will never run.