About Josh Fields Expertise I can answer questions related to the BMW e30. These are the cars produced from 1984-1991 (1992 for convertable) in the United states. I am more fluent with the six cylinder models, although few things changed for the 4 cylinder cars. I know most of the problematic areas of these cars, and have found ways to fix them.
Experience I have owned six different E30's over the last 10 years. I do all my own work, and know about ever nut and bolt on these cars.
Question I have a 1996 m3 evo.When i brought the car it had been in a light bump.Did the work on it and got it on the road.First time out in it i lost the clutch.I bleed it still wouldnt work.I have had 3 slaves on it 2 masters on it.New clutch pressure plate clutch and thrust berring.Ive put new copper pipes on it a new braded hose from the copper to the slave and i still have the problem of looseing my clutch.There is no consistency with it.When i fist start the car it goes in gear fine and the biting point is about an inch from the bulkhead ive been told thats normal.When i loose it i struggle to get the car in gear and the biteing point is right on the floor.Bmw have had the car 3 times now and to be honest i think they have washed there hands of it.i really need some help as i have the car ive always wanted and i carnt drive it correctly.Thanks for your help.Karl
Answer Karl,
I have driven M3's, and the "biting point" was always about the middle. I would check all the parts to make sure they are for your vehicle, as someone possibly put in components from a different model BMW in there to save money. If you have replaced the Master-cylinder, slave cylinder, and clutch components, then there is nothing left to be giving trouble. Unless there is some adjustment to the clutch pedal, like a rod that can be adjusted, or a clutch stop that's too high, I dont know what to tell you. I know on the E36's they put a Clutch Delay Valve on them, and this is basically a fitting with a tiny hole in it. This hole restricts the flow of the clutch fluid, so if you were to just "dump the clutch", it wouldn't hurt the drive train, or it would delay the clutch engagement. Most people remove these as well.
Unfortunately it sounds like it's a hardware issue. Like someone put an aftermarket flywheel on the car, and now it's farther away from the clutch throw-out bearing. So something is making you have to push the clutch in all the way, either the throw out bearing is the wrong one, or the release fork is wrong, or the flywheel is wrong. Like I said before, make sure someone didn't put a clutch stop behind the pedal, as this could be the problem if it's not adjusted correctly.
I would check on these forums for help, there are some really knowledgable people that deal with the E36 on a regular basis (I deal with the E30).
