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About Carol Antrim
Expertise
I can answer most questions about basketry techniques, and how to or where to find instructions/instructors. Also most questions about the materials used in basketry, either preparation and/or sources. I cannot answer questions regarding value or appraisal of baskets. Nor can I address questions about locating cheap wholesale baskets for gift basket businesses, or how to fill such baskets or conduct such businesses.

Experience
I have been weaving baskets since 1986. Studied with Native American basket makers from several Woodland tribes as well as with teachers from coast to coast and Canada,Japan and Russia. Have taught basketry in Indiana, Ohio, New York, Montana, Michigan and Tennessee. Had acceptances in shows and won awards in Indiana, Ohio, and Michigan, including purchase awards to the permanent collection at Minnetrista Cultural Center. Twice had baskets at the Indiana Governor's residence in the Indiana Arts and Artist Program, and was in 'Innovation--Baskets and Beyond' an invitational at The Firehouse Gallery in Damariscotta, Maine in 1999. My work can be viewed at http://cantrimbaskets.com/

Organizations
Member of the Virtual Basketmakers Guild http://home.sprynet.com/~cpantrim/
and the Indiana Basketmakers Association http://www.indianabasketmakers.com/

 
   

You are here:  Experts > Home/Garden > Arts and Crafts > Basketry > pine needle basket finishing

Basketry - pine needle basket finishing


Expert: Carol Antrim - 6/8/2001

Question
How long should I let my baskets dry before spraying them with polyurethane and how many coats of polyurethane are recommended ?  I have been quoted a range of overnight, to three weeks and am confused.

Thank you you very much.

Answer
Hi Teddi,

The reason you hear such wide ranges in many basketry instructions is because the whole range works, but each increment may produce a slightly different result that appeals to it's user's tastes... and then you can get into variations in humidity or temperatures depending on location, or how heavy your finger is on the spray button, or how much you stir the dye bath, or...or...or..., and although you think you followed someone's directions to the letter the result is different from theirs but it still looks good...I can't stress enough, experiment to find what is comfortable for YOU.  There really are lots of *right ways* to do many of  the various procedures.

That said, on my reed baskets I usually try to get several baskets ready to spray at once so most of mine dry at least over night and some may dry for several weeks...Maybe my eye hasn't been properly trained, but  I honestly don't see any difference in the way they take the spray.  And I started out following the manufactures directions for how many coats... I use Helmsman Spar Varnish (a polyurethane with a UV filter) and  I figured what's good for fine furniture is good for fine baskets. :-)  Remember, even reed is a wood.  Now, I think I'm  using between 3 and 5 coats. But experiment until you  are comfortable with the results...I sometimes  deliberately rewet a basket that is dry and then spray it while still wet...it produces a different look, sometimes, it will even make it look like there is a pronounced grain in the wood, but it  isn't totally predictable  :-(    Wish it were because when it works, it's beautiful!

I do recommend using a polyurethane  with a UV filter...that's why I use Helmsman, when I first started using a sealer it was the only one I could find, but I think Weavers Stain now has a filter and I even saw a can of Krylon sporting a "with UV Filter" label the other day. I have seen a difference in the amount of color  fading ...the UV filter definitely helps. I also think air circulation is very important...I live in Indiana where a  seemingly dry basket can mildew just sitting in the shade on a humid summer day...so I like to spray on a breezy day or place the baskets in front of a fan.

But, I have to repeat, that is what I do on my reed baskets, on my pine needle baskets, I actually don't spray anything at all, although I know many of the coilers do.  I've always thought there was enough natural resins in the needles it wasn't needed for protection, as such,  but I do like the finish some achieve by using it...I also like the look I achieve by not, and I like the look some achieve by using wax rather than resins on their baskets...Again, experiment! Find what YOU are comfortable with for YOUR look.  

Hope I have reassured you that you needn't be confused by wide ranges quoted in differing instruction, it just means you have a lot of latitude to do it correctly in.  *Lots of right ways*...hold onto that thought.

Basketsful of Happy Weaving,
Carol

Carol Antrim
http://cantrimbaskets.com/  

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