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Beagles/4 month old Beagle Peeing Issue


We have a four month old Beagle called Lady. She is wonderful, friendly and quiet. The one issue is toilet training her. She is fine doing her number twos outside.. But she will constantly pee on our couch, carpet and first thing in the morning when I wake her she wags her tail rolls on her back and pees all over herself?! Every time she is excited she pees also. I have tried taking her outside after she eats and drinks but she stays outside for over half an hour and the second I bring her inside she does it on the floor. She knows she has done wrong too because her tail goes between her legs and she looks very guilty. In the mornings it's impossible to get her out to pee because when she wakes up she can't hold it in and pees on herself?! We also have a 4 year old Beagalier and she has started to pee inside now too (we have never had an issue with her before) Any suggestions would be amazing :)

I am enclosing my Housebreaking Info... You should probably print it out.


This will be one of the most important training efforts (or
REtraining efforts) you will ever do with your dog so commit to yourself that you will be consistent and persistent at all times!

I usually recommend devoting one weekend (Fri night to Sun night) where your entire weekend is concentrated on housebreaking, that’s right 24/7!! Then during the time when you are attempting this housebreaking you should literally take your dog out EVERY HOUR ON THE HOUR without fail. Until your dog is trustworthy about going where it should (outside) take it out on a leash (see below on Potty Area). Fresh drinking water should be available to your dog at all times but with a young puppy you may want to time its' drinking to just prior to taking it out for its' scheduled hourly relief. If you are free feeding your dog or puppy this can be contributing to your dog’s accidents, as there is always something in its bowels to get rid of. It also leads to obesity so PLEASE, feed your dog once or twice a day only! Your dog should be taken out 5-10 minutes after eating which is about how long it takes to stimulate a bowel movement. (FYI-I am happy to give you more detail on scheduled feeding vs. free feeding if you need it.)

The ONLY time a puppy or non-housebroken dog should have free run of the house is when you are right there with them to watch them! This will avoid unnecessary accidents and allow you to see "pre-toilet" behavior and whisk them outside.

I recommend attaching a leash or long clothes line to them during this learning period (or retraining period) and hooking it to your belt, leg, arm etc. This way the dog can never be out of view and if you are truly watching them, as you should be, will seldom have an accident. It will also teach them that you are in charge, which will help in the future with other training. Remember that this is only temporary! If you really follow this to the letter your puppy/dog will be housetrained in a matter or weeks or retrained in a matter of days! (This varies depending on the age of the dog)

Remember.........a puppy can only be expected to hold it for as many hours as it is old, plus a month. So if your puppy is 3 months the most you can ask for is 3-4 hours.......and that is only if you have trained them. Otherwise they will just go when the urge comes. Puppies and adult dogs USUALLY won't go to the bathroom where they sleep or eat HOWEVER, if they have been allowed to become accustomed to this it will negate that natural instinct.

Many people have made the mistake of not restricting the area where their dog can go potty. This can lead to a lot of backbreaking pooper-scooper activity and taking on a second job as a "Treasure Hunter", not to mention the possibility of encouraging coprophagia (stool eating). Take it from me that you want to get it right the first time and limit where they go to a certain area. Always take them to that spot and if they roam out of that perimeter lead them back. Praise them lavishly when they stay within their perimeter and if they manage to roam out and go they should be led back and then told they are good for being in the right spot.

You will need to invest in a product called NATURE'S MIRACLE or PET FORCE, which are the best I have found on the market. You can buy them at any pet store or even at a vacuum store where they rent steam cleaners. They are enzymatic cleaners which remove all traces of odor if applied properly (read directions carefully). This is extremely important because if your dog/puppy can still smell something inside he will continue to think this is OK to do. Forget about using any of the other kinds, they won’t work! If you have many soiled areas from before you apply this, you can buy a black light at the pet store also which will show you all the areas your dog has gone and then you can be sure to treat them all. Both can also be used in carpet cleaning machines and this is recommended if you have a whole room that has been soiled. They can be applied to any surface and should (IE: carpet, walls, cement, linoleum, fabric etc.)

All messes should be cleaned up quietly and quickly with NO comments made. PLEASE do not scold or punish your dog for an accident. It is not their fault, it is YOURS! If you are doing what you are supposed to it won’t happen (obviously in the very beginning there will be a few mistakes!) Your dog is only doing what comes naturally. It is up to US to teach them how to live in a human world. Rubbing a dog’s nose in his mess, yelling at him, or swatting him does absolutely nothing but teach him to fear you. They do not have the reasoning ability to connect what is on the floor to what you are upset about and sometimes you can inadvertently reinforce the very thing you were trying to eliminate!  If you happen to catch them IN THE ACT and I do mean midstream or mid drop, grab them, whisk them outside and put them where they should be going and then tell them “This is where we go, good doggie!” Timing is everything in training a dog so if it is after it won’t help.

Please know that locking your dog in his crate also does nothing to stop the behavior. Remember, the whole concept of a crate is that it is a dog’s castle, it is supposed to be a place of safety, comfort and relaxation. It should NEVER be a place to be banished too or used for punishment. Using it in the incorrect way will make your dog not want to go inside it or be in it and then you will have two problems!

Some people also get so discouraged that they just leave their dog outside because they cannot get a handle on the housetraining. Unfortunately, this is one of those things that reinforces the behavior because they have no clue what to do when they are finally allowed in and so they continue to do it not to mention act wild when allowed in.

It is my opinion (and that of many leading animal behaviorist/trainers) that the most successful way to train your dog in anything you endeavor is to use a reward system. Your dog is eager to please you and if he gets a reward for doing something right he will remember it and try to do it again and again.

I recommend using treats with housebreaking (& all training) with lots of exuberant praise. When your dog/puppy is successful in going outside in his spot immediately give him a treat for doing so and lavish him with exuberant praise. As with the above, timing is everything so you want to do it immediately upon his finishing his job.

Once you have a handle on housetraining don’t think your job is done forever. If you have a doggie door, do not just assume he will now go on his own. At least each AM as soon as you wake up and each night just before retiring make it a habit to go to the door with your dog and take them outside (in inclement weather at least stand at the door and send HIM out). When they do their thing praise them. This is continued reinforcement to do the right thing and you can never do it for too long in their life!




Your dog can only be as good and behaved as the time and effort YOU as the leader have put into teaching him! If you spend little time, expect a misbehaved dog, if you spend a medium amount of time, expect a dog who does some things right and others not. If you want a dog that is well behaved, a pleasure to be with and take anywhere, YOU are the only key to that formula.

Good luck and feel free to contact me again if you have any further questions!


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I am happy to answer BEAGLE BREED SPECIFIC behavioral questions. Please DO NOT ask MEDICAL questions! I am not a vet .


I currently have one adorable beagle, a male age 6.5, a sweet and loving 3 year old female Pit Bull, a cute fluff ball 10 year old male min. poodle and my newest addition a 6 month old male pit who already 50# and is going to probably be twice that when done growing. I have unfortunately lost in the last years 2 beagles and 1 whippet/rat terrier mix. The two beagles lived to 15 and the whippet mix to 13.5, it was so hard to say goodbye to them. I have done rescue work on and off for many, many years as well as fund-raising for the local animal shelter. I worked for a dog magazine in the past (Southern California Dog Magazine). Being a psychotherapist has encouraged me to do in depth studying of animal behavior as well. I have worked with many people to help curb undesirable behaviors in their dogs (or them!) or to form good behaviors. My life is devoted to and surrounded by my dogs........The picture you see here is Zeppelin but we also call him the "miracle dog". He was hit by a car April 2010 while out with the dog walker and had very serious injuries... 4 surgeries and $17,000 later my boy is whole again and back to loving life. He is so special to me and he weathered a lot of pain and trauma yet is still the sweet boy he always was! I also work to stop Breed Specific Legislation and help to get pit bulls adopted.

HSUS, PETA, SPCA DONT SHOP...ADOPT!! Ban the deed, not the Breed!!

Dog Fancy

I am a Marriage and Family Therapist licensed in the state of CA and am also credentialed as a Certified Addiction Treatment Specialist

Awards and Honors
Honored by the Agoura Animal Shelter for my volunteer work.

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