Beer/Low Alcohol/Flat Beer
Expert: Alan Ward - 12/10/2008
QuestionQUESTION: I am a first time brewer and I tried a Coopers IPA kit. I felt that I did everything pretty well. I did make a few mistakes along the way (might have pitched the yeast a little early), but I think I might have made the mistake of "jumping the gun" on the beer. I took readings with my hydrometer prior to bottling (because I forgot to take an original reading before pitching the yeast)and both readings I took came out to 1.010. I thought it should be higher than that. I let the beer ferment for 4 days before moving it to a carboy to clear a little (which it did - color and clarity are great!). It sat in the carboy for 4 more days prior to bottling. I used 2/3 cup of corn sugar for my 5 gallon batch, mixed in the bottling bucket with the wort.
Anyway, I've opened a bottle after about 4 days of conditioning and it seems that my beer is low alcohol and isn't carbonated yet. Am I just being too impatient or have I really done something wrong on this one???
ANSWER: Todd,
With out the original reading it is hard to know what the alcohol should be. Did your system buble?
A final of 1.010 is fine but as I stated it is hard to know what the alcohol is with out the orginal reading. If you send me the ingredients I can tell you what you should have had in the beginning. You can then subtract the F.G. from the O.G. and divide by 8 to get the alcohol.
If may also be that the beer you brewed is low in alcohol any way. For example if you had an O.G. of 1.035 and A F.G. of 10 you would have a difference of 25. If you divide that by 8 you get 3.125% ABV which would be correct but might feel low.
Send me the ingredient list and I can tell you more.
Alan
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: It was a single can, Coopers IPA malt extract kit (don't know the weight). The man at my brew store also gave me a one pound bag of dry malt to add to the mix while it was on the stove. The only other ingredient was a small packet of brewers yeast that came on top of the can. The beer smells and looks good, but just doesn't have the "kick" that I'm looking for.
With the beer being an IPA, I thought it should have at least an ABV around 6%??? Am I wrong in thinking that??
AnswerCoopes IPA caned malt extract comes in a 3.75 lb can. If you achieved 7 points per pound you would only have 26.25 points. Add that to the one pound of dry malt which could give you another 7 points you would end up with 33.25 points which would roughly convert to a 1.033. If you ended up with a 1.010 you would have a difference of 23. Divide that by 8 and you would have 2.875 ABV.
This sounds most likely like what you have. Which is why you find it so week. And you are correct in thinking that an IPA should be around 6%.
If you want to acheive the correct ABV you will have to up the fermentables. I would suggest adding two cans of Coopers IPA malt and one pound of dry malt. This would give you about 52.5 points plus the 7 points from the dry malt will give you 59.5 points. Subtract the F.G. of 10 and you will get 49.5. Divide by 8 and you will get 6.1875% ABV. Which will put you right where you want to be.
Or here is a nice IPA that can be made from dry malt and 2 lbs of two row. You can do the 2lbs in a mesh bag and make a tea.
7 lbs. light malt extract
2 lbs. British Two-Row Pale malt
1 cup light brown sugar (boil with extract)
1/2 lb. British Cara-pils malt
1/2 lb. British Medium Crystal malt
1 oz. Wye Challenger hops (bittering)
1 oz. Northern Brewer hops (flavoring)
1/2 oz. Kent Golding hops (finishing)
1/2 oz. Kent Golding hops (dry hop in fermenter)
1 pkg. Burton water salts
1 pkg. Nottingham ale yeast (or Wyeast #1028, #1098, #1968 or White Labs British, Burton, or Dry English Ale Yeast)
1 pkg. Bru-Vigor (yeast food)
1/2 cup light brown sugar (for priming)
O.G. - 1.063
F. G. - 1.014
Unfortunetly there is nothing you can do now to correct the situation. I would take it as a learning experience. I would suggest keeping good records and always add up your fermentables before you start. Remember paper is cheaper than a wasted brew.
I would also talk to your local brew shop. Did they know that you wanted to make an IPA? If so they should have known that you would not get anywhere near the correct ABV with what they sold you.
Also keep in mind that the can malts do not always have everything that you will need to make a good batch of beer. Depending on the style you will have to add additional ingredients and hops.
In the mean time take time to plan your next batch and drink up your current batch. At that low of alcohol it will not last long.
I hope this has helped. Good luck.
Alan