Expert: John Snyder - 1/7/2009

Question
QUESTION: Hi John, hope you had a nice holiday. I just had the best beer of my life -- the first bottle of my last batch. There was no aspect in which it was not perfect. So I ask the following questions with a certain satisfaction that, come what may, I have a recipe that works -- for me anyway. Adding to that is that I have done it the cheap, no frills way. Most hobbyists spend so much on equipment....how much does that work out to per bottle? You don't even need an airlock, hydrometer, or hop bag.

We were talking about keeping the air off the brew. If the primary does this with a 100% CO2 atmosphere, what about the secondary? I use Cooper's yeast for the low attenuation. But  the yeast settle out slowly -- as long as two weeks. I then transfer and within 2 days dry hop with pellets(if I wait they may not have settled by bottling). Should I dry hop right at transfer so that as the slower ferment continues, creating a (likely) thinner layer of CO2, it will not be disturbed? Also, on my next MoreBeer.com order I plan to try some oxygen absorbing bottle caps. If the beer will be consumed sooner rather than later, do these strategies make much difference?

         Thanks,   -Jim

ANSWER: I enjoyed my holidays also.I indulged in import beers,during this time.It had been awhile,since I had drunk imported beer.I settled on Negra Modelo,a dark beer from Mexico,and Heineken Premium Lt.Lager.Some extreme,huh.I was very impressed with both products.Mexican beer sure has come a long way.

I mostly agree with you,lots of money can be spent on equipment,but a hydrometer is worth the cost.Nothing beats good cleaning and sterilization practices,attention to good processing and brewing procedures.

In the secondary,a good practice is to layer the bottom of the receiver with a blanket of CO2,before transferring your beer.CO2 is heavier than air.As the beer is transferred in,the CO2 will push the head space air in the container out,through the vent.

It is also important to make sure the beer transfer is done BLACK(no foaming)as foam will be saturated with O2.then absorbed into the beer slowly,during aging.

Dry hopping at transfer is the way to go.

Oxidation takes place during poor transfer and bottling,kegging practices.If oxidation takes place during secondary storage,the oxidation in beer has already been done,and beer flavor will be affected within days of bottling.

The caps would be ok.if the bottled beer would be kept for 30 days,or longer,and no prior oxidation took place.I would suggest the next time you bottled to keep 4 bottles,and at monthly intervals open one and taste,for oxidation flavor.

Keep up the good brewing practices.

         John





---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: They don't have a hydrometer that fits a gallon jar and to remove enough brew to test seems a waste at this capacity, not to mention contamination risk. I had one years ago, but if I routinely wait the 2 weeks > 3 weeks before bottling I know they're not going to explode. And so far I haven't had a stuck fermentation, thank goodness (out of 20 brews).

Where would I get CO2 to put in the secondary? I never have foaming on transfer, but another though occurs to me. At bottling I boil 2 cups of water with the priming sugar and 1/16th teaspoon of gelatin. This brings up the final volume of water in the brew as well. But, after it cools enough not to shatter the jar I just dump it in with a splash before I siphon. Guess I should tip it in gently, eh?

         Thanks,  -Jim

Answer
Probably at any home brew store,a CO2 cartridge,and a dispenser.Years ago you could buy at retail stores that sold bar supplies.Commercial brewers use the CO2,that is collected from fermentation,and CO2 is difused through small pore sized stones attached to the tank inside.

Your transfer technique is excellent.Yup slow with the water solution.

Hydrometer cylinders only hold 100Ml(about 3&1/2 oz.)The hydrometer is useful at beginning,middle,and end of fermentation.Gives you a good idea,how the fermentataion rate is going;also you can calculate the alcohol content of the finished beer,using the hydrometer.


         good brewing
         John