Expert: Alan Ward - 8/22/2004

Question
Hi,
Thank you so much for your help before. Everything seems fine, fermentation started and now it appears to have ended. I have been so busy that I haven't even had a chance to think, rather then worry about the beer. So its time to bottle and I have some questions. I just picked up some bottles from a bar near by. Mostly Heineken and Amstel bottles. First, should I have any problems using green bottles? Are brown bottles much  better? Also the bottles are dirty with beer still left on the bottom and are still labeled. What is the best way to go about cleaning/sanitizing them? Should I run them in the dish washer, then soak them in sanitizer to remove the labels & sanitize them? Should I do this in a different order, or do I not have to run them in the dishwasher at all? Please let me know. Last question, right now my beer is still in my plastic primary fermenter. I don't have a bottling bucket. The only other container I have is a glass carboy. Can I prime my beer in the glass carboy I have, that is siphon my beer into the carboy and bottle from there? If not, would it be better to siphon the beer into the carboy, clean the primary fermenter and then prime in the primary fermenter? Please let me know. Thanks so much!





-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
Hi. I am a new to home brewing. I have only brewed once before and that was a while ago. Today is day one of my brewing and I am not sure if everything is going as planned. First, I forgot about cooling the mash. I knew I shouldn't pitch the yeast until the mash was around 70 degrees, but I didn't remember to cool the beer quickly, so I let it sit covered with an airlock for about 2 hours before I remembered and then stuck the fermenter in my refrigerator hoping to cool it quicker. Is this serious? I read some information about slow cooling adding funky flavors. Second question, I tried to take a hydrometer reading and the hydrometer just would hit the bottom of the tube, it didn't float at all. Shouldn't the hydrometer float in the mash you are testing? I wasn't sure if I was testing with enough mash. Any ideas? Third, finally after the beer was much cooler, I took it out of the refrigerator, rehydrated the yeast and pitched it into the fermenter.  I put the airlock and was expecting to see bubbles immediately. It's been about a half an hour and I haven't seen any yet. I remember the last time I brewed that there was activity really quickly, but that time I brewed in glass and this time I am brewing in plastic and can't see anything. I wasn't sure if I should open up the fermenter to see what was going on, so I didn't do anything. Would it have been bad to open the fermenter? That brings me to my last question. I am brewing 5 gallons in a 7.5 gallon plastic fermenter. I was told that this extra space is needed to compensate for the foam and crud that develops during fermentation. Do I need to rack into something smaller, a 5 gallon carboy so the liquid fits tighter into the container without any space for air or if I wanted, can I leave it in this oversized container until bottling? Actually one more question, should you stur the brew after you add the yeast to the fermenter, or should you just add the rehydrated yeast from the bowl and just cover the fermenter, no stirring? I think that's it. I would greatly appreciate your help. My beer is in your hands.
-David

Answer -
David,
First take a deep breath and let it out.   Lets take these questions one at a time.
1.    Is this serious? (cooling to slow)
o   You want to cool fast to prevent contamination.   As long as you where below 90 degrees when you pitched the yeast you are fine.  The fact you covered it helped to protect it. I have found beer to be forgiving.  Since you have already spent the money and brewed it all you can do is wait and see.  I would bet that you will find noting wrong.
2.   Hydrometer reading.
o   That is a strange one.  As long as you had enough liquid to cover the hydrometer it should not sink.  The hydrometer should float to at least the zero mark, since water reads zero.  Try filling the tube with water and see what the reading is.  Depending on your local water it should read zero or close.  If it sinks  then get a new hydrometer.  If it floats I would take another reading with a turkey baster (sterilized). You will want to know the original reading so you can compare it to the racking.
3.   Reaction
o   Do not worry.  Most of my brews at least 24 hrs. to show a reaction.  I always use plastic as a primary.  You should see some bubbles in the morning.  If not wait for 24hrs and take a reading.  You could also add some brew vigor.  As to opeing the fermenter  it is not the best thing but I have even had them blow off and the beer was still great.  So peak if you want.
4.   Container size
o   I always use a 7.5 gallom plastic for a primary and a 5 gallon glass for secondary. That is what is usually used.  I would recommend racking from the 7.5 gallon plastic to the 5 gallon glass after 4 days.  I believe you get a cleaner brew because you leave a lot of the trub in the primary.
5.   Stirring  
o   Yes stir the wort just after you add the yeast.  This gives the wort oxygen that the yeast will need to make good beer.  After you stir and close the lid try not to agitate the wort further.

You are asking the right questions.  I have found that when I have accidents I make the best beer.  Seriously your brew should be fine and you will learn from this batch.  If you have any more questions just let me know I would be glad to help.

Alan


Answer
Okay David it seems your ready to move on.  First, I generally rack my wort from the primary (plastic container) to the secondary (glass carboy) after about 4 to 10 days. The plastic cleans more easily since you can get to all the areas.  Second the glass does not absorb odors and can handle the wort longer.

If you do not have a bottling bucket you can use your plasctic primary and rack back to it.  You can then add your priming sugar stir carefully and then fill your bottles using your racking cane.  I would recommend purchasing a Bottle Filler.  They run about $4.00 and make the job much easier.  If you do not have one you could use the racking can hose and a clamp.

As to bottles.  First the most important thing is to have them clean.  You will need non-screw off bottles.  I have heard of people using screw top bottles but I have never wanted to chance loosing brew.  So I would stick to the old style.  

Now color has no real effect.  The brown provide more protection from light which can effect the aging but since most of us keep our brew in a frig or closet where there is no light there is no difference.

The hard part and the part I hate is delabeling .  For this I use T.S.P (Tri-Sodium) Phosphate. This is the  active ingredient in most concrete cleaner, TSP has been known to dissolve lime rinds, cigarette butts, and other organic compounds left behind in beer bottles gleaned from your local pub. Kills everything in it's path. I use to purchase it at my local brew shop but they stopped carrying it so I started purchasing it at Home Depot.   It runs about $8.00 for 5lbs which last a while.  Any hardware store should carry it most likely in the paint section.

I use an old Igloo ice chest.  I holds about 40 bottles at one time.  I add a ½ cup of TSP and fill with water.  Then sink the bottles into the mixture and let them sit over night.  Actually the longer they sit the easier the labels will come off.  I found a curved kitten knife at a dollar store and use it to scrape the stubborn labels off.  I then rinse them in a water bucket and place them upside down in a old milk create to dry. I find the creates are great.  They hold 25 standard bottles, they stack and protect the bottles.  You can purchase plastic milk creates at Wall-Mart or a dollar store.  

If you are real worried about your bottles and you have a dish washer available you could then run them through a cycle with high heat.  I would then place them back into the creates or holding box.  When your ready to bottle you will want to sanitize them.  I recommend B-T-F Iodophor Iodine Sanitizer. It runs about $10 for 17 oz.  This will also last a while.  I use my plastic primary to sanitize the bottles.  You can then remove them and use a bottle stand or empty beer cartons to hold them. ( I usually use a bottle stand to let dry and then move them to the cartons up side down.).  This also sanitizes the primary to use as a bottling bucket.  Empty the Iodophor let air dry and rack to bottle.  I also sanitize my bottle caps at the same time.  I just let them sink to the bottom and pour the liquid through a kitchen strainer. Then let them dry on a paper towel.

You did not mention new labels but I would suggest some kind of label.  I use white shipping labels (Avery 5164) or a generic brand that is the same size to label with.  It makes for a nice look and keeps track of what beer is what.  Here is an example http://www.clanward.com/brewery_files/Lables/pages/atlbier.htm . I use Microsoft Publisher to produce them.  It makes it look more professional and I find that they are fun to come up with .  You could just tape a name on them using a standard 4 line address label.  I also place information like bottling date, brew date, OG and percent alchohol.  I also through fun to read saying on the side. Each brew gets its own.  If you want you can look some of mine over at http://www.clanward.com/brewery_files/Lables/index.htm .  Not all of them are there but there is a large selection to give you the idea.

Now just sit back and wait for at least seven days to allow for carbonation.  I usally allow 14 days before I test drink a batch unless I just can't wait.

I hope this helps.  If you have any more questions just let me know.

Alan