Expert: John Snyder - 7/23/2006

Question
Hi. Thanks again, John.  Per your suggestion I plan to wait longer before I bottle and try fresh hops at the next opportunity.

What do you think of this plan, then, for my current two batches:
1 week primary ferment, then decant;
1 week dry hop with pellets(where things stand now), then strain and decant;
1 to 2 weeks further secondary ferment with gelatin added, then decant again;
prime and bottle and condition for 2 weeks at no more than 75 degees;
store at room temp for not more that 2 more months before regular refrigeration -- if there are any bottles unconsummed at that point.

This strategy would seem to avoid the gelatin collecting on the hop bits.  -Jim


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Followup To

Question -
Yeah, John.  I think you advised me to do the gelatin at bottling a few days ago. Is that what you meant to say?  Also, I get very fresh hop pellets in packets flushed in nitrogen. When I receive them I put them in jars that are vacuum sealed with a PUMP-N-SEAL(almost the vacuum of outer space). They stay very fresh in the frig. I used 7 grams per 100 oz batch. A little much from what you mentioned. I'll see how it works out. -J
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Followup To

Question -
Hi again, John!  From your discussion I would gather it's a good idea to change carboys along the way(every week?) to keep the dead cells from polluting the beer. It's easy for me to do this(and everything else), working with 1 gallon jars.        The two brews I have going use the Safale-04 and Cooper's yeast, as you recall. The Cooper's is now starting to settle out of solution. They were both supposed to be high flocculation, but I guess the Safale is VERY high. The Cooper's is catching up. Here's my question: I dry hopped the Safale 2 days ago (the one week mark for both)and the Cooper's -- not yet.  Since I don't want to mess with hydrometers I've been either waiting a safe period of time before bottling, or, lately, I've been watching how much of the hops I put in for dry hopping in the second or third week(from pellets) sits at the surface, supported by the few bubbles of the continuing ferment. When this layer goes from about 3/8 inch down to about 1/8 (for a day or two)I deem the brew ready to strain, prime, add gelatin,and bottle. What do you think?

Thanks, -Jim S.

Answer -
It's safe to do dry hopping 7 days after pitching.As i said earlier the bubbling rate drops off dramatically,and there is not enough CO2 being generated to carry off the hop aroma with the CO2.Dry hopping should go in at the time you start your secondary fermentor conditioning process.Normal rate of dry hopping is 1/2 oz/5gallons.The gelatin should go in at the start of your 2 to 3 week secondary fermentor conditioning.Prime and bottle after that time.There will still be enough yeast floating in the beer to carbonate it.You don't want to carry all that stuff over into your bottles.The priming phase goes through the same type phase as your primary fermentaion

Hops

How are they stored,and packaged?Hops should be kept cold,and stored in oxygen barrier plastic.The supplier should be doing this also If you smell hop aromas,then flavor and aroma is being lost.Pellet hops are also hard to dry hop with,as aroma content tends to be less.

Again any more info needed,will be glad to assist

         John

Answer -
In our discussion about isinglass,(gelatin) I said put it in at the end of fermentation stage,when transfer to aging took place.(secondary conditioning) Addition at bottling will also work,but you would then be carrying over more suspended yeast into your bottles to settle out.

Your handling of storing hops is great

Answer
Jim the plan overall looks good to me,with one exception:

I would put the gelatin in when the hops go in,and not do the additional transfer.Volatile oils from the hops will diffuse into the beer,and the gelatin collecting on the hop bits would have no influence.

transfer to secondary fermentation conditioning should be done using a sanitized siphon.(no sucking or splashing)nor straining then affix an airlock.Headspace should be kept at a minimum.

Oxygen (air) is very detrimental to beer,and any pickup during transferring will cause early staling of the finished beer.Oxygen is only good at beginning of fermentation,to kick start the yeast to ferment the sugars.
         sanitizer
1 tablespoon of bleach to 1 gallon of cold water
 soak the hose for 20 mins,then rinse with boiled water,to rid of chlorine residue

hop mesh bags can be used to put hops in,at dry hopping,thus eliminating transfer problems

As i said above the process you outlined looks good.

         anymore info needed,let me know
         John