Expert: - 7/15/2008

Question
QUESTION: I am looking for a new bowling ball.  I was thinking about getting a particle or urethane bowling ball, because I already have a Reactive Resin bowling ball.  What are the advantages and disadvantages of each?  Maybe, is there there is a different type of coverstock I should look into?  I throw my ball with a curve.  Can you please also suggest some specific models?

ANSWER: Joe,
Getting a new ball involves some research. Matching up using a specific ball is the key to success and a very involved process.  

The first step in the process is: What are you looking for a new ball to do? Will it compliment the existing equipment you own or replace a piece that's not working as well as it used to?

A performance bowling ball currently is made using a polyurethane (commonly called urethane) base for the coverstock. When particles of various materials are added into the urethane, the result is a particle ball with varying amounts of, size of, surface finishes of or combinations of materials (like hybrid particle and reactive resin balls).

Particle balls have lost a little of their luster (not many still being sold), as they demand lots of oil or plenty of ball speed typically. I have had good luck with particle pearl balls which have smooth covers to manage the oily front part of a lane but also have small particles or light loads which allow the balls to transition differently than a pearl reactive ball.

Reactive resin balls contain materials that remain uncured when combined with and molded onto a bowling ball core. The urethane base material is porous and the uncured goop, trapped in the pores of the coverstock, oozes to the surface. When the ball gains friction which heats the surface, the heat warms the goop, goop expands and it bleeds to the surface. The sticky goop is why reactive resin balls transition so violently. They get sticky (gaining tremendous friction) as well as the other characteristics (core influence, surface texture) encouraging a ball to change directions.

Urethane balls are the last category (like the Lane 1 Liberator, Buzzsaw THS or Brunswick Groove). With different (less) reaction than particle or reactive balls, urethanes offer the potential of surface, dynamics of core (or lack of) to provide (usually) milder more controllable ball reactions.  

You mentioned nothing about your skill level, grip type or how much you bowl. With details like your rev rate, axis tilt and rotation, ball speed and type of lane condition you bowl on, I could START discussing what might work for you. Thanks for the questions.

Your local IBPSIA pro shop should be able to help with the details. Bowl Well!

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: My average is 155.  I have 2 fingertip grips in my ball.  I just put my fingers in to the first joint.  When I am at the line, I pull my thumb out and twist my middle and ring finger towards the lane.  I usually throw the bowling ball 12-14 mph.  I don't know how to tell my rev rate, axis tilt, or rotation.  

I think I usually bowl on a medium, sometimes medium-high, amount of oil.

The ball I have now says Power Groove Dry/R.  It is 13 pounds.  When I got this ball, I just went for the color.  Now I want to look at the coverstock.  I am now looking into a 16 pound ball.  My friend told me a 16 wouldn't bounce out of the pocket like mine.  Is he right?  My new ball I was thinking of using it for different lane conditions.  

With Reactive Bowling balls, do some curve more than others?  I only spent about $90 on the one I have now.  My friend told me about the new Black Widow.  Would that work better than mine?  I wasn't sure if higher priced Reactive balls work better than the cheaper ones.

Answer
Joe,
You bought a very, VERY minimal hooking bowling ball in the Power Groove Dry/R. Buying color is appropriate for a simple spare ball. The color of a performance ball should not influence you. The performance you need should be your biggest motivating factor.

Going up in weight is a good idea. More effect when the ball hits the pins with a heavier ball. How much you go up is up to you, your body size, athleticism, etc.  Your 13lber bounces out of the pocket because it's lighter and because it has a very minimal surface. The surface breaks loose from lane contact when the ball is resisted when hitting the pins so it deflects.

What do you weigh? I try to start bowlers with 10 percent of their body weight or heavier for their first ball. A 3 pound jump (to 16)means the 13lber goes away. You will not be able to maintain any kind of consistent timing or tempo with that dramatic a difference in the weight of two different balls.

When you spend more for a bowling ball, often you are paying for a more complicated ball (to manufacture). Simple balls (less sophisticated cores can be made in one step, like your Power Groove) cost less to make. More involved cores (multi densities, sophisticated shapes demand higher tolerances) are more costly to manufacture. More expensive equipment should do more. But, just because the potential for hook is there, your style or the condition you bowl on, might not match up well with a specific ball.

Your bowling store operator should be able to watch you bowl, evaluate your style, speed, rev rate, etc. and the lane conditions you bowl on and suggest a couple of choices in your price range.

Yes, the difference in balls is often how much they hook, where on the lane, and whether core or cover dominates the effect. Lastly, ball layout (where the holes are drilled) influences what a ball can do.

Thanks for the questions. Any further question, please write back. Good bowling.