Expert: - 8/16/2009

Question
QUESTION: I have a question concerning the purchase of a new ball. Is Urethane or Reactive Resin better for heavy to very heavy oil? Could you explain, in a technical way, how they are different in heavy oil. Could you recommend a ball that may work?

Here is the reason:

I am recently returning to bowling after 10 years (I quit in 1998 due to an arm injury). I am learning how different today’s lanes and balls are from those of the past. When I started bowling again in 2008, I was having trouble getting my old Ninja Fury to hook and the pro shop recommended a Black Widow Venom. So I stepped down to a 15 lb ball (more comfortable for my old arm injury) and had it drilled with a strong hook layout. I took it out and am very pleased with the ball in medium oil, the ball reacted just like in the hammer promo videos. However, I then started bowling at a different ally where the oil is incredibly heavier, and the Venom would not react at all- I even had it dulled to 1000 abralon thinking I would improve reaction but I saw no change. The ball simply will not come back on the back end at all. The pro shop guy at this new place told me the Widow’s are great on light or medium oil but will not perform on heavy oil.  He suggested a Storm Virtual Gravity. I ask him about urethane and particle balls but he told me I needed the VG to get the ball to move in heavy oil. However, a number of league players told me no reactive resin ball will hook well in heavy oil, and I should go with Urethane. I have researched on the internet all three types of ball (Reactive resin Urethane and Particle) but have found little info concerning Urethane on heavy oil. I don’t think I would like a particle ball based on what I have learned and seen. I don’t want to get the Storm if it is going to act like the Venom- I don’t need two of the same ball. The guy at the pro shop is not very informative – I think he just wants to sell the most expensive new ball.

Here is my current equip and stats. I am a Stroker and throw the ball 15-16mph with around 250rpm. I have a ball spinner and can modify my own surface. I clean all the balls with resin ball cleaner or Isopropyl Alcohol after each day. My current average is 185.  On dry to medium oil I usually score 200+; on heavier oil I am scoring 130-150’s. I am looking for a ball that can handle the heavy oil, with my low speed and rpm style, consistently and give good pin action and back end movement. Reactive balls I am considering: Storm VG, Visionary Ogre Solid, Hammer Jigsaw

Ball #1 Hammer Black Widow Venom 15 lb
Surface: 1000 abralon
Layout: Pin under strong hook layout
Reaction in light to medium oil: skid/flip with strong snap at back end lots of pin action
Reaction in heavy oil: inconsistent skid with late roll and no backend snap- rolls through pins poorly

Ball #2 AMF Ninja Fury 16 lb
Surface: 600 dry sand
Layout: Pin under strong hook layout
Reaction in light to medium oil: Strait roll with little movement at all, very poor pin action
Reaction in heavy oil: Strait roll with little movement at all, very poor pin action

Ball #3 Hammer Burgundy Fab 16 lb
Surface: 800 wet sand
Layout: Strong hook layout
Reaction in light to medium oil: moderate arcing hook with little pin action
Reaction in heavy oil: strait roll with arcing hook 3-5 feet before pins, very poor pin action


ANSWER: Steve,
All your bowling balls are a base material of urethane (actually polyurethane). The resin or particle elements are added to the coverstock formulas to create more or different looks on the lane. Urethane won't hook more than resin or particle (the surface texture of your older balls is rougher than modern equipment).  

The Virtual Gravity is a strong combo of coverstock and core. One of my best sellers for oil. I like the Jigsaw also, threw it but haven't sold any yet. The Track Rising SE, Columbia FullSwing and Brunswick Seige are strong options too. The problem with a lower rev rate and slower ball speed is there needs to be a balance between how rough the ball is (is slows down too fast) and the strength of layout (too early or too late backend reaction).

Your dilemma is that your ball may be skidding too far or your lower rev rate isn't getting the ball to change directions strongly enough on oil. A strong layout can help the latter but surface could be helpful for the former.

Who taught you to sand balls? There are a couple techniques. Do you sand across the track or cross hatch the track? A new idea in one of this years new balls, is to create a strong base of serrations (500 grit Abralon) and then lightly hit the ball with 4000 to help it through the front part of the lane. Sanding is good but the serrations need to be in a helpful position as the ball flares and turns rolling down the lane.

Your Venom is HIGHLY polished on top of a very smooth finish (4000). Changing it will help some but I'd leave it at the box finish and use it for conditions better suited to the surface.

Your different weight balls are a concern but we can discuss that another time.

I'd put the pin/core in a stronger position relative to your Vertical Axis Line (VAL) and possible utilize a double thumb drilling technique which uses a very low weight hole "next" to your thumb. Without knowing tilt and axis rotation I can't be much more precise. Thanks for your questions. Please follow up with more info.





---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thank you for the quick response. I will get the VG 15 lb and go back to the guy who drilled my venom so he can drill it- I will show him your suggestions and see if we can come up with a good layout for me.  I am going to retire the Fury and replace my Hammer Fab with 15 lb also-  I’ve seen them on e-bay from time to time. That way all my equipment will be 15 lb. I notice the 16 lb balls cause my old arm injury irritation- the drop to 15 lb has fixed the problem.

I was taught to surface balls when I was young, maybe 18 or 19 by the owner of the pro shop where I would bowl. I always sand perpendicular to the ball track, but have never experimented with cross hatch patterns. I like to use both silicon carbide wet/dry 3M sandpaper (the higher price black material) and abralon pads. Is there a difference in how I should adjust a finish between urethane and reactive resin? How about between a symmetric cored ball and an asymmetric cored mass bias ball (I expect higher flare in these)? Any suggestions for improvements on sanding technique?  

I would be nice to get back to where I was 10 years ago, I was holding a 198 average. There just seems to be many more variations in oil and lanes today- I find it more of a challenge bowling on today’s lanes-  back then one ball did it all, and no matter what ally I was at the patterns and lanes were similar.

Thanks for the help!  

Answer
Steve,
When sanding across the track is most aggressive, a cross hatch is next (not as aggressive) and with the track for a ball you DON'T want to hook.

Good luck and let me know how it shakes out. I think you'll find with a better match up with the weight , you'll do great.