Expert: Russ King - 9/1/2007

Question
I've heard various comments from bowlers about what a benchmark ball should be but I wonder what is the best one to use (solid, pearl, pearl particle, hybrid, ect.)? My understanding is that it's usually a ball with a mid RG and a mid differential of around .45-.50, one that can read the midlanes well, and one is versatile to where you can use on several conditions. I don't have a benchmark ball at the moment and I do use my Power Machine at times as that but because of it's length and flippy motion, it does little for me. I use to have an Action as my benchmark ball and even though it was a pearl reactive, I got a better read on the lanes to know what I need to do. So what should a benchmark ball really consist of?

Answer
Everybody has different needs.So, it would be different for everybody.You need to develop detective skills.You need to ask at least 10 questions about what your equipment lacks,what conditions they work on & what conditions they do not work on,what you need not what you want or what catches your eye,where you want to hook the ball (early arc, mid arc,late skid/snap),how your grip feels/if it needs to be tweaked to feel better,style/form(are you having problems with basics are some of the questions you need to ask & solve the answers to.
 You can answer some questions by experimenting on the balls you really don't use/like & change the surfaces.You said skid/snap is not good. So you need either a duller surface to even out the snap,stop messing with the dry bump /swing out to dry & stay on a tighter line in the oil.Changing the surfaces will give you a new ball reaction to every grit wet/dry sandpaper.Your Pro Shop has a ball spinner (a must) so you can get an even sanding.Each grit (500,600,800,1000,1200,1500,2000,2500 up to finesse-it 30,000 shine) will get a different reaction.Say from 800 to 1000,you will get more length & delay the hook.This also works from 1000 to 800 dulling it up for sooner hook & smoother reaction.
 Slightly change hand positions.A 1/8" or 3-4mm will give a 1-3 board change.It will also change the angle to the pocket for different carry on those solid ten pins.Say moving your thumb pointing from 11:00 O'clock to 11:30 will give a slightly straighter up roll & not so much belly out skid/snap to arc down & in line.Moving your pointing finger in or spread out 1/8" 3-4mm will also change things.Moving your pinkie out will straighten out the ball from jumping so hard in the back ends.
EVEN IF YOUR BALL IS DRILLED WITH SKID/SNAP WEIGHTS, YOU CAN TWEAK IT TO SETTLE DOWN.
 YOU NEED TO DO A LOT IF INVESTIGATING & PROBLEM SOLVING TO KNOW WHERE TO GO.THERE ARE THOUSANDS OF BALLS OUT THERE WHERE MAYBE ONLY 2 OR 3 WILL WORK FOR YOU.GET A NOTEPAD & DO THE INVESTIGATING.THEN GO TO BOWLINGBALLREVIEWS.COM TO TRY TO GET SOME ANSWERS.
 BALL REVIEWS ARE VERY GENERAL/GENERIC & BALL COMPANY RATING SYSTEMS ARE NOT UNIVERSAL SINCE THEY HAVE THEIR OWN SYSTEMS.A BALL THAT HAS A 50 HOOK RATING CAN BE 30 OR 75 ON ANOTHER RATING SYSTEM.
 I HAVE A SYSTEM OF 4 BALLS IN 2 BAGS.1. THE MOST IMPORTANT BALL IN YOUR BAG IS A GOOD STRAIGHT GREAT FEELING GRIP SPARE BALL(PLASTIC OR RUBBER).2.A SHINY NO WEIGHTED PIN QUIET/OVER FINGERS TO GO LONG ON DRY.3.A SEMI SHINNY PIN HOT (PIN @ 2 O"CLOCK) FOR MEDIUM CONDITIONS.4.A HOOKER THAT WILL HOOK ON A FROZEN LAKE.THIS ONE WILL VARY ON HOW THE PERSON BOWLS.A CRANKER WILL WANT A LESS DULL WHILE A STROKER MAY WANT MORE OUT OF IT.THIS WILL COVER 60% OF THE CONDITIONS.HAND/STYLE ADJUSTMENTS WILL COVER 20% & SOLID BASICS & KNOWLEDGE WILL DO ON ALL 100% OF THE CONDITIONS.YOU CAN NOT CONTROL 100% OF THE CONDITIONS. BUT, IF  YOU CAN JUST SURVIVE THE NASTY ONES,YOU WILL BE WELL INFRONT OF MOST OTHER BOWLERS.

>>> YOU NEED TO KNOW WHAT BALLS WILL WORK & WHAT WILL NOT.EXPERIMENTING  & GOOD DETECTIVE WORK WILL HEAD YOU IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION. <<<

BOTTOM LINE IS,
   GETTING A NEW BALL IS THE LAST STEP TO BETTER BOWLING.


I AM SENDING THE ANSWER AGAIN.SOME ANSWERS ARE GETTING LOST OVER THE INTERNET.