Expert: Russ King - 10/24/2006

Question
Lane Conditions:

I am really struggling with conditions on synthetic lanes. Part of the problem may be with the drilling of the ball. That I do not know. Unfortunately, having not played in 22 years I did not have a ball to show the Pro how I throw the ball and at best tried to describe what I did and what I would like it to do. The good is that on WOOD lanes, where I have practiced a couple of times, the bowling ball is reacting almost exactly as I want it to and I am averaging 202, and that is with a ball (I only have one an Action Max) that I cannot pick up a ten-pin in the corner. The problem is that I do not play on these lanes in a league, I play on synthetic lanes that seem to be highly oiled and most right-handers struggle through the first two games and I average only 174 (dropping after this weeks 484). On the wood - I start at the middle dot and throw about 2 boards left of the second arrow, if I miss a little outside it comes back more, if I am a little in it slides just that amount. It just seems so easy on these lanes. On synthetic – Trying that same shot I might just as well be trying to make the 6-3-7 split. So, I have to move my spot to the one board to the right of the second dot and then hit the same arrow. Personally, I hate this shot (no pin action) and find it still very hard to hit the pocket consistently. Is the problem of my ball not coming back the setting in drilling, the ball, or the surface? How do I know what it is and where to start? My Ball speed is 16.5 to 17.5


Answer
20 years ago I was averaging 230 in 3 leagues. Now on synthetic I only average 205 at best.I have a lots of lift high heavy lots of revs roll on the ball.All I get is solid 10 in the pocket,7 on 1/2 pocket & 18-24 9 counts a night.
I loved wood!
I hate synthetic!
To score on synthetic,you have to almost spin & top the ball.Remember the things that were a no-no in the old days? Well , those no-nos are what you have to do now (top,bent elbow, follow through non existent,cross your face,spin the ball ect.).When you have to move on wood,it is one or so boards .On synthetics, it is not nearly the same move.
I have found that way under reactive balls work best       ( Bruns. Grooves urethane & reactive, any urethanes all 3 piece balls). I can still get some control out of them.But striking is a major chore.I have even tried a conventional grip.The best weights I have found is a ball drilled straight up (no weights) & then drill a hole at a 45 degree angle (down by your thumb to the palm side.This gives you finger weight & a heavy spot up by your fingers & out on your track area to the left of your middle finger & highly shined.This keeps the ball steady & controllable.If you have fancy equipment, put the pin above or under the middle finger with no side weight.
The best & fastest way to start experimenting is surface change.You can sand on a Ball Spinner (a must) many different grades of grit. Wet/dry paper comes in 400,500,600,800,1000,1200,1500,2000,2500,3000 up to 10,000 fines-it shine.Each grit will give you a different reaction.
Try 1500 for a few frames. If too straight, go to 1200.This will help in not getting a new ball that does the same things your other balls are doing.
For a spare ball , I use a plastic (polyester) no weights & after drilling no top weight.Like a cannon ball.I use it on most spares.
I can't spin the ball without hurting my wrist. Maybe you can but be careful.

THE DUMP & BUMP TYPE BOWLERS RULE NOW.I HAVE NOT FOUND THE SECRET TO GET AROUND THAT BENT WRIST TOP THE BALL SHOT YET.
>>>>>>TRY THE SURFACE SANDING FIRST.<<<<<<<<
LET ME KNOW IF IT HELPS YOU.