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Hi,

I started bowling about 9 years ago, Im 32. I took 3 years off because I was burned out bowling 3+ nights a week plus traveling leagues on the weekends. I also hit a plateau at 195. All that time I had spent getting stronger and cranking the ball more and more until I got to where I thought I wanted to be able to play.. way inside. Then I had a kid and bowling stopped. So after taking 3 years off, I started again last year.

Using my same Fire Storm, I bowled in ONE league and averaged 214. My game has changed now that I understand I can play in on 20 if I have to, but just because I can dosent mean I have to fight it. As a result I feel like I am a better bowler obviously but I also feel I am ready to update my equipment.

Our lanes have a speed thing and I am usually around 16 mph and I normally play over 15, sending out to 4-5 and for the most part, just comparing myself to others in the league, I would say I throw hard and turn the ball alot.

Im really accurate with my fire storm, and I like it because of the way it comes off my hand. I also have an old blue hammer, urethane that I dont like. It dosent turn much and seems to roll out on me. Im guessing that this is because of the way it is drilled.

Before I get to my actual questions, let me say that the house I am in now is an older center that has the above the lane ball returns. Me being right handed I cant skoot as far left on the right side as I would like and as a result I come up high alot.

My question is, I would like a ball I can turn pretty hard because thats how I am most accurate. But I dont want it to hook much. Im told my firestorm is not a hooking ball but I can make it move pretty hard. Is there anything out there in equipment land that can counter my style to give me a little less hook. Also, in terms of balls, what statistic am I looking for to find a ball that revs alot but hooks little. Hope that makes sense.

Killing the ball on my weak side leaves single pins because the lanes are so old. When I can open the lane up on the left side Im golden. so I dont WANT to have to throw a diffrent style ball on each lane, im not that good.

Should I use a plastic and just rip it? do I get a 15 lb-er and wing it down there... I just want to throw my style and keep it right of the head pin.

I imagine its difficult to analyze this without actually seeing it so I hope I explianed it well enough. I think I could maybe add a few pins if I tweak my rquipment a little and being out of the game for a couple years means I may have missed something.

Thanks,  

Answer
I bowled in a above return house long ago. I USED TO SWING THE BALL OUT TO THE EDGE & WOULD CRINGE WHEN IT LOOKED LIKE THE BALLS WOULD HIT EACH OTHER.As for the Hammers, I COULD ONLY GET REVS OUT OF THE FIRST BATCH OF BLACK ONES. The blue ones were great for slow rev strikers only.I had 3 & never did anything with them even shined.

I would not mess with weights just now.Your 32 & still strong.15 might get you out of control from heaving it.THATS NOT BOWLING.

REACTIVE RESIN BALLS do NOT take nearly as well to surface changes as URETHANES.I think Urethanes work way way better on old wood lanes than reactives.When you dull/sand reactives, they actually hook less.URETHANES ( I MAINLY USE THEM 90%)ARE VERY PREDICTABLE.MESSING with the surfaces will fine tune the ball to what you want. It works best with little or no side weights.The wet/dry sand paper grits are 400,500,600,800,1000,1200,1500,2000,2500 up to finesse it mirror shine.Each grit change will give you a little different reaction.I like the BRUNSWICK GROOVE URETHANES,EBONITE MAXIM BLACK,& FOR EARL ARC TYPE LINE THE COLUMBIA TROOPER.I STILL HAVE MANY EBONITE TURBOS I USE IN TOURNAMENTS.Their a lot cheaper to.

If your ball is hitting weak(flat 10), you just sand with the next coarser grit to get more punch or go one finer & move a little right for a later punch.It is a whole lot of fun to see the differences a grit change makes to the reaction.It is like having 15 balls in one. I like the same ball,same weights & grip with 3 different surfaces.They work off of each other when the lanes change.I FROWN ON $300 BALLS.ALL THE TOUR GUYS DRILL THE PINS OVER THE FINGERS TO TAKE THE FLAIR & HEAVY REACTION OUT OF PLAY ENDING UP A $300 BALL WORTH $30.I BUY URETHANES REAL CHEAP & GET 10 FOR THE PRICE OF ONE EXPENSIVE BALL.10 BALLS WITH 15 GRITS = 150 REACTIONS.
A URETHANE IS THE MOST VERSATILE BALL OUT THERE.

I TRY NOT TO COMPARE ANYTHING TO THE OTHER BOWLERS.95% OF BOWLERS WILL NEVER SEE A CLEAN SET,ADJUSTING LINES ,CHANGING BALLS IN THE 9TH FRAME & STRIKE OUT. I COMPARE MYSELF WITH THE LAST 3 FRAMES I BOWLED.I ONLY LOOK AROUND TO MAYBE FIND A BETTER LINE TO PLAY LOOKING AT REACTIONS OF THE BALL.THIS KEEPS ME IN MY HEAD.IF YOU LOOK AT OTHERS , THE BAD HABITS MAY RUB OFF.

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Russ King

Expertise

21 years in drilling balls,9 years running Pro Shop,cure grip problems,Fix approach problems,coach handicaped bowlers, certified coach instructor, coach Crankers,Tweeners,Strokers,Ex Ball Tester,A Mechanic on Bruswick machines,B Mechanic on AMF,Resurfaced lanes (Wood),change oil patterns for different ball reactions to train & test on.Hints on ways to clear/relax your mind on the lanes.

Experience

American Bowling Congress 32 yrs.,PBA 20 yrs.,
I learned from 3 Ball Drillers & then, develped my own styles of drilling.I EXPERIMENT ALL THE TIME (THE BEST WAY TO LEARN!).

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