Expert: Russ King - 4/17/2007

Question
QUESTION: I'm having a Problem Reading the lane's because they block the shot every four weeks Usually my average is in the 170's but this season I dropped to a 139 average and the ball reacts difference each time I throw even if it near the same spot.
ANSWER:  SIMPLIFY!!!
If the ball is getting out of control on over hooking conditions, try a way under reactive ball for more control.When you have a reactive ball coming off of the dry,it hooks hard. Keeping it in the oil , only gets skid.I usually use a regular shiny Urethane or even a Plastic for better control.They don't jump nearly as much off of the dry as the reactives do.You can even change the surfaces of the Urethanes for a better reaction that suites your style.
I don't know if you are using a Reactive right now. But a Urethane would help.When the lanes get tough, a good under reactive like a shiny or even a semi dull URETHANE can do wonders.I use a Brunswick Groove Urethane SHINY for tough conditions.It will beat an over reactive ever time on nasty conditions.
On a block,you either bowl great or bad.If bad, don't use the block.Stay inside of it & dull up the ball for control on the oil .Keeping the ball in control around the pocket on your tough condition will give you better resultes.And better yet, if you miss right, the block will kick the ball up to the pocket. REMEMBER TO STRETCH THE BUMP WAY DOWN THE LANE ON THIS CONDITION. A EARLY BUMP IS NASTY ON A BLOCK.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I'M USING A REACTIVE BALL AND WHAT YOU STATED IS CORRECT WHEN I PRACTICE DURING THE WEEK AT THE BOWLING LANES. BUT WHEN WE BOWL IN OUR LEAGUE. THE BALL DOES NOT MOVE OR HOOK. I MOVED TO THE RIGHT THROW OVER 3 DOT SECOND ARROW
AND STILL HAVE A HARD TIME TO GET TO THE POCKET.

Answer
A REACTIVE BALL does only 2 things.
1. HOOK OUT OF THE HOUSE ON DRY
2. NOT HOOK AN INCH ON OIL
 THERE IS NOT MUCH IN BETWEEN!!!!!
IT IS DESIGNED TO SKID ON OIL & SNAP ON DRY BACK ENDS.
The funny thing is if you dull the surface up to hook , it really does not hook more . It just starts hooking sooner.It also very much mellows out the skid/snap to a manageable reaction.>> YOU DO NEED OILY HEADS<<
You can lay it down in oil in the heads . Let it drift out about 7 - 10 boards ( may not make it back over 10 boards)find the dry & let it bump off the dry back to the pocket. Or, keep it on a tighter line & if you miss right it will react off of the dry giving you a board or 2 area.
There are many grades of wet/dry sand paper.Shiny out of the box usually is around 1,500 grit & dull maybe 500-700.
I like to start at 1,000.This way you can go more or less hook off of this grit.Your Pro Shop has a Ball Spinner ( A MUST )TO GET THIS SURFACE.Go out & throw about 8 frames or so to get a readable reaction to what you are looking for.I do this to the surface to almost every ball I own to get the exact reaction I need.IT IS A TRIAL & ERROR TYPE OF TEST.Once it gets close, have the Shop person sand the ball then turn it 1/4 turn & sand with the next lighter grit (make sure to retain both grits on the surface)..This will act like tire treads.This about as much as you can do without permanently changing the ball.
TRY IT & LET ME KNOW.