Expert: Alan Kahn - 10/25/2005

Question
Dear Alan,

Thanks for your prompt response. I've ordered Bladders and they should arrive next week sometime. I have a couple other questions..thanks!

First ,I'm using an Everlast 24" platform (the crappy particle board one) I would like to use a thicker piece of wood to make it more secure. I noticed that you recomend table tops. Did you change the mounting screws? (the screws that fasten the platform to the arms) Because they don't look like they could handle a very thick piece of wood in addition to the particle board platform. And also the screws have a square shape near the head that fit snugly into the platform..How did you work around that?

Second, I noticed on your website that you seem to leave the black particle board side facing down after you have modified the platform (adding the table top) Is it possible or better to place the table top surface facing down (of course after sanding it smooth and varnishing it)
Just wondering if you've tried this?

Third, Is it a good idea to place a builders level on the platform to make sure its perfectly flat when setting it up ? I was wordering if it has any ill effect if the platform isn't completely flat.

Well that's it for my questions tonight.

Again thanks Alan!

Sayonara from Japan

Kevin









Followup To
Question -
Dear Alan,

I have a question regarding Speed Bag Bladder changing. I train Shooto (MMA) in Tokyo and recently got back into doing Speedbag training again. I was using an Everlast 4200 but one of our fighters over inflated it and it's out of commision. So I replaced it with a Bodymaker Speedbag and I really prefer the Everlast one. So I will order bladders and replace the popped one.
In the meantime I removed the old bladder and tried to do a patch job. Didn't work out but it was really a challenge to slip the nozzle back through the hole in the bottom on the bag. After many attempts I could at best just line it up so the needle could find the hole..but far from correct.
Is there some secret to this? It seems really hard..
Any tips would be appreciated.
And thanks for your time. It's great that guys like you are offering help and advice.

Best Regards from Tokyo,

Kevin
Answer -
HI Kevin,

Always great to hear from our international fans!

You are describing the very reason I always buy 2 or 3 bags at a time. the most irritating thing about speed bags is messing with the bladder. If the hole is in the SEAM of the bladder, forget it. It will never hold air.

Everlast bladders:  http://store.everlastboxing.com/everlast-replacement-speed-bag-bladders.html

As for putting the nozzle through the hole in the bottom, you will probably need to put a little leather or fabric glue around the bottom of the bag and the bladder so when you do get it through it will stay in place when you stick the needle in. As best I remember, ( haven't done this in a while..) I would attach the needle to the pump, and stick it through the bag hole. Then I would put the bladder into the bag and stick the needle into the bag, and pump it up about 25 - 40%. ( I found it was easier to seat the bladder when it was somewhat blown up..) then I would push the bladder down and let the inserted needle help guide the nozzle to the hole. Then I would finish blowing it up pretty full and let the pressure of the air inside put pressure on the bladder to help seat the valve and let the glue dry. Otherwise, you can't keep enough pressure on the bladder to keep the nozzle poked out while the glue dries.

I remember trying the is in the early days by holding the air-nozzle with a pair of needle nose pliers to pull it tight as the glue dried. But air does it a lot easier.

Hope that helps you out.  Keep me posted and let me know how it goes.  

(http://www.putfile.com/speedbag)  

take care and good luck.

sincerely,

Alan Kahn
author, The Speed Bag Bible
http:.//www.speedbagcentral.com)

Answer
Hi kevin

Question 1a:
..Did you change the mounting screws? (the screws that fasten the platform to the arms) Because they don't look like they could handle a very thick piece of wood in addition to the particle board platform.

Question 1b: And also the screws have a square shape near the head that fit snugly into the platform..How did you work around that?
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

answer 1A:  Yes, I changed them. I bought some that were an inch or so longer to go through the extra wood. (In the picture on my site that is actually plywood, not a table top.  Table tops are good for creating a rebound board from scratch, but not as easy as plywood to "add on" to another board..)
answer 1B:  I drilled out the holes a little wider in the board, widening the end where the square bolt head fits in. It doesn't have to be perfect if it is not being counter-sunk to a specific depth.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Question 2
Second, I noticed on your website that you seem to leave the black particle board side facing down after you have modified the platform (adding the table top) Is it possible or better to place the table top surface facing down (of course after sanding it smooth and varnishing it)
Just wondering if you've tried this?
Answer 2: I think I would work either way, but I left the black particle board down, since that was the original circular board, and the plywood on top wasn't cut to shape. It was actually just roughed out to go on top and add weight. I also used the black board for the underneath shots in my teaching video. It gave a nice contrast against the bag. I have other lighter rebound boards that did not look as good. But for non-video training, the color wouldn't matter. A harder, denser surface of OAK will probably give a better rebound than the softer particle board, but in my case, it worked fine.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Question 3:
Third, Is it a good idea to place a builders level on the platform to make sure its perfectly flat when setting it up ? I was wordering if it has any ill effect if the platform isn't completely flat.
Answer 3: Actually that is a great question. I DO use a level whenever possible. The inexpensive home unit in my video's and on my website (speedbagcentral.com)  make you adjust each side individually and then tighten a bolt. Without a level, it can be difficult to get it close to straight, so I normally use one, resting on top. AFter it is tightened down, you can put the level up against the under surface to make sure it is level. Newer, more expensive units have both side of the vertical mounts moving together and it is easier to get them level, but I DO suggest using a level if you know how and one is available. I think it makes a more reliable workout when the board is level.

thanks for your questions and train safe.

sincerely,

Alan Kahn
author, The speed Bag Bible
http://www.putfile.com/speedbag