Expert: Ralph Onesti - 7/16/2011

Question
QUESTION: Hi Ralph,
Thank you for taking the time to respond to my question. I have been reading a number of your questions on this site and I was wondering if you could suggest a mixer. I have been baking bread for a couple of years. I have a Breadman bread machine and a Hamilton Beach stand mixer. I make a lot of multigrain breads, usually a couple of loaves every other day. My breads are becoming popular and I have been asked to participate in a number of bake sales. One is coming up at the end of this month. I plan on making 30 loaves. (6 loaves of 5 different types). My current equipment is not up to handling this type of quantity. I saw a Kitchen Aid Pro 600 on sale this week and was wondering if it would be a good mixer. I have read mixed reviews online. You stated in one of your previous answers that a spiral mixer is best for bread. I am not sure which brand to look at.
Typically my breads have a similiar formula: Flour (cooked and soaked grains, 20%; soaked multigrain flours 30%, whole wheat flour 50%), water 69%, salt 1-2%, yeast 1-2%, oil 2-3%, sweetener (usually honey) 3%, buttermilk powder 3%.  (I have recently been studying Peter Reinhart's "Whole Grain Breads" which has considerably changed my bread making process). I either put everything in the bread machine and run it through the dough cycle or use the stand mixer and finish kneading by hand.
I greatly appreciate your input on this.

ANSWER: Hi Linda:

Ok...let's talk mixers...

Planetary mixers, such as the Kitchen and and many of its counterparts is not the mixer of choice. These are the mixers that employ the use of a dough hook which rotates in one direction while the head rotates in the other. These mixers have been around for years and are great for pastry making, but not bread.

To get closer to the kneading process of the hands, you need a spiral mixer. This mixer rotates the bowl and the dough into the spiral cork screw looking  hook in the back of the unit. This is the closest to real kneading and much more efficient than the planetary. Also, they can handle the heavier doughs we find in bread making.  Your dough above looks plenty sturdy...too much so for a planetary mixer.

Also, I find the Kitchen aid type mixers can handle about 600-800 grams of flour and then they are doomed.

Their are spiral mixers on the market which are counter top size and will handle the size you need.

I'm guessing you are using a typical residential oven, and with two stones can make 6 loaves at a crack weighing around 680 grams or a pound and a half. We'll talk ovens when you're ready.

Also, spiral mixers have only 2 or three speeds, and some smaller ones on one speed. I would hunt down the two speed model. You will be mixing on first speed for incorporation, and second speed for gluten development.

Take a look at the American Baking Company in the mid west US, or possibly the thunderbird company. In any case, don't rush.

The problem with spiral mixers is that when you want a smaller one, the price goes up. I questioned this, and it seems it's the chemical labs that like the smaller units and manufacturers can get more bucks out of the big companies and also the demand for small spiral mixers is not high.

Step one, how much dough will you make at any one time?

There is a company called Snowmaster that makes a small spiral mixer for about 1200.00.

Some things to remember about the spiral:

1. The bowl is NOT removable
2. The hook is NOT removable
3. Cleaning is a bit more complicated because of 1 and 2 above. We like to let the dough dry and scrape it off before going after it with wet cloths and such...you WILL get used to it.
4. You will want to limit your rotations to about 1000 per mix between the first and second speed so it's important to know how many rotations per minute each speed has.
5. On the one speed types...it's not a problem...you just have to mix on second for a bit longer.

I don't think there is a mixer I haven't baked on and I made each one work. I have a good friend and pastry chef who recently bought an Italian countertop spiral and was really upset when it came because it had but one speed...I made GREAT bread with it.

So in your case...bread machines are out of the question.

Let's get the mixer out of the way and attack the problem of the oven next. I assume you are baking with steam.

Now, with regard to bread books...I have read them ALL. There is but one book you will EVER need: BREAD by Jeffrey Hamelman. All due respect to the others, but if you pinned them against the wall, they would have to admit that Jeffrey is the master.

I use the other bread books for recipe ideas...that's great. But for technique, they don't come close to Hamelman. He wrote one book and only one. When you do it right...you only have to do it once!

OK...stay close and I'll help you through whatever it is you're trying to do!

Happy Baking,

Ralph

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thank you for your fast and complete response. I have already put the Hamelman book on my list of things to do today. I will look into the mixers.
My oven is a Frigidaire residential electric oven (very old, possibly from the late 50s). I use 2 baking stones, bottom rack to bake on, top rack to help distribute/maintain heat. I also have a countertop Oster oven.  Steam is an issue. I use a pastry brush to brush the loaves with water before baking. I only have 2 racks in the wall oven so I have no place to put the pan for water. Since it is so old, it is unlikely I will find a 3rd rack. It really needs to have the top stone in place in order to make decent bread. (What I really need is a new oven!). I can bake 2 2 lb loaves (haven't tried increasing it to 3, I might be able to squeeze it).
I have considered approaching the local bakery and asking them if I can "rent" oven space and time. My friends are encouraging me to expand my bread baking and one even suggested I start an online business with local delivery. I would love to try that but feel constrained by my equipment limitations and my lack of experience.
Are you in Philadelphia? I am about an hour from Philly.
Thanks again for your support and time.

Answer
Linda:

If you are baking on one stone, then I would eliminate the bottom stone and put a rack with a cast iron pan. A cup of hot water in the pan after loading the loaves will do better for steam. This will give you better steam for a longer time and better distribution. The second stone isn't doing as much as you think.

If the local bakery is using on oven with no steam, that can be an issue. Steam in the first few seconds is essential. In fact levain breads should be steamed twice in the first five minutes.

Let's get a hold of Hamelman's book and stay in touch.

If you are serious about baking for farmer's markets and the like, you might want to consider purchasing a small commercial oven. You don't have to go overboard. Many times you can purchase used! And if you do consider purchasing...thing gas with steam.

Let's keep talking!

I grew up in the pastry business and hated it...that's why I do bread.

We are currently in the process of looking for a new location in the burbs. Where are you?

Ralph