Expert: Ralph Onesti - 7/27/2011

Question
QUESTION: I live in a high altitude, 6500-6700 above sea level. When I make my grandmother's sweet rolls they come out with the flavor content I'm looking for however, they're tough and chewy. Also, sometimes the dough is sticky (like there's not enough flour) and other times it's smooth and elastic. I use my Kitchen Aid to knead the dough and the slow proofing method in the fridge. The dough rolls out fine, but the rolls are still tough. Should I use a cake flour with a lower gluten content? The recipe requires 10 mins. of kneading, is this too much for high altitude? I've already read all the suggestions from people taking blind stabs, now I'd like to get an answer from someone who actually knows.

Thank you for your help, my grandmother's rolls rock........when they right.

ANSWER: HI Jean:

I'm thinking...right off the bat, you're creating too much gluten in the mixer.

Remember, if you're rolling out dough...you're creating even more gluten in that process.

I don't think the gluten content of all purpose flour...11.8% is the problem.

I would mix on the first speed of your kitchen aid until the dough comes together...2 minutes...then on 6-8 speed for 4-5 minutes.

This may seem as if your not creating enough gluten, but bear in mind, the longer you let the dough ferment, the more gluten you create, and then rolling the dough will create even more making a tough product.

So I'm guessing you mix the dough, do some sort of bulk ferment...maybe an hour on the bench and then the rest in the fridge???

While it's in the fridge, are you degassing from time to time.

How long in the fridge.

If you like, and I certainly don't mind...let out the entire process for me and we'll go over it step by step...no blind stabbing here!.

Also, are you laminating the dough at all?

Deep breathe...we'll get through this!

Ralph

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks Ralph,
By your instructions I think my suspicions were right about the gluten, I will try the "less kneading" thing. I used to degass one time, but that was when I didn't live in high altitude. I will follow your suggestion re: kneading time and then allow the dough to rise on the (non drafty counter); degass and then the second rise in the fridge. The original recipe (from 1952) suggests a rise time of overnight in the fridge. Then roll out portions of the dough, cut and roll into butter horns and then let rise again. I would share the recipe but it's an old family heirloom from Sweden, unfortunately I cannot part with it. However, I do intend to keep at it until I get this figured out.
Thank you again, I appreciate the lack of "stabbing in the dark". I just needed to talk with someone who actually understands and knows what they're talking about far more than I do. I'll get back to you with my results.

Jean

Answer
Hi Jean:

Well...you seem to be on track.

By the way...there is no problem with the overnight fermentation in the refrigerator.

We do this on certain formulas for several reasons, one of which is altering the flavor profile.

The longer, colder, fermentation will create more of an acidic result which my in fact be just what you want.

Degass gently...stretch and fold...no punching down. Love the dough and it will love you back.

Let me know how you do.

Happy baking,

Ralph