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Building Homes or Extensions/Putting wood siding on a 35 foot 5th wheel summer retreat

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Expert: - 11/15/2008


Question

5th Wheel on property
Hi, my husband and I bought 10 acres of wooded property that sits at 9,000 foot level in the Ashley National Forest in northeastern Utah.  The snow level gets to be about 5 feet in the winter, lows can be below zero, and the highs during the summer can get up to about 90 degrees.  Our little trailer, a 35 foot 5th wheel that is covered by a very well made structure (see my blog for photos at http://acabininthesky.blogspot.com/2008/10/our-search-for-cabin-in-sky.html)
We would like to convert the structure and trailer to a cabin; yes, I know it sounds really strange but we think it would be nice, and cheaper than building a cabin.  We would basically use the trailer structure for what it is, a kitchen and bedroom, and build a large deck beneath the overhang structure.  Here is our question:  what kind of siding would be the best to use to cover a trailer from the outside, and how would we attach it to the trailer?  We will probably use redwood or cedar for the deck, where we will have a fireplace, grill, and lots of comfortable lodge chairs.  Hoping you can give us a little direction.
Thanks, KS

Answer
Dear Kim,

You're probably right about a conversion being cheaper than building a cabin; but then you realize you won't have the same value as a well-built cabin, secure from the elements and the packrats. It goes against my nature somewhat to mix media that way, but I do have some ideas, from experience skirting and enclosing trailers.

First, the trailer should be as level as can be, so that the windows and doors are all plumb. Ideally, the frame should be blocked up securely on concrete pads to eliminate movement.

Once the trailer is stable and level, you can establish a rectangle of treated 4x4 sill plates on the ground to base a 2x4 curtain wall all around, with corresponding window  and door frames and access hatches as needed. I would keep the curtain wall self supporting, with minimal attachment to the trailer, possibly with lag screws at predictable points, probably with spacers so that you maintain an air gap of 1-1/2" all around to avoid the bumps irregularities of the trailer. This curtain wall could be insulated and then sheathed with cedar lap siding. The cedar should be treated with a UV sunscreen, such as Clear Wood Finish (CWF) to withstand the intense sunlight at your elevation.

Extension jambs around doors and windows would give the wall a finished look. Vertical trim pieces defining doors and major windows could make the horizontal siding pieces shorter. Careful attention to detail, and subsequent maintenance, should eliminate places where the packrats can get in. Solid foam insulation, rather than fiberglass batts, is a little less attractive to the rodents.

Such a lightweight curtain wall could be removed fairly easily, with little damage to the trailer, should you wish to remove the trailer at some point.

I enjoyed reading your blog, and I wish you many more happy days on your property.

Daniel  

Daniel Humphrey

Expertise

I can answer questions about designing and building homes and outbuildings, especially for colder climates. I am expert in timber framing, but of course I also know about other kinds of residential construction techniques and materials. Because of my emphasis on using local materials and organic alternatives, I know quite about about Green Building and am willing to do the research to find out more.

Experience

I've been a timber framer for 20 years, working as a general contractor who designs and builds custom timberframe homes, working as much as possible with local organic materials, from foundation to finish. I also have expertise in designing, building, and setting up pre-fab remote camp facilities on terra firma or temperate glaciers for research and expeditions, using helicopters for support.

Education/Credentials
B.A., M.F.A.

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