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Question
I live in the Pacific NW. A 3 level house with a Truss Roof.

1. When I bought my house, I had 3 existing windows (all above ground) in the basement. Above each window the (bottom rim joist?)which is about 2 feet above the foundation(short foundation to rim joist wall) was used as the header. Is this typical? Next I had the concrete below the exact window dimension cut out in order to place a taller window in the same location. I thought that as I was not making the window dimensions any wider the rim joist could still act as the header. Is this OK? There are no cracks, sagging etc, however, I am starting to hear pops in the walls throughout the day and night. Getting a little nervous...

2. As well, when I moved in, my friend, a developer/realtor talked me into removing a closet in the middle of the living/entry area. There was a 4 foot long wall in the center of the room which had a gang of 4or5 studs in one corner of the closet. My friend said these studs grouped together are load barring. We jacked up the joist and replaced the "gang" with a solid wood post. The post has a diameter of more than 20 inches. There is no sagging or cracks,yet the popping sounds and creaking floors on the top level have me worried.

3. Above the doors on the second floor, and some on  the middle floor have some slight bowing where the drywall meets. One has a hairline crack, the rest have a bow. Should I be worried.

Thanks in advance for your kind advice


Greg in Vancouver

Answer
I am doing some guessing here.  I suspect the rim joist is doubled up to function as a header.  The short wall was probably just installed to  catch the top of the window and hold siding and drywall at the window head, the actual load is carried by the rim joist/header.  If you did not change the original bearing at the head or sides of the replacement windows, the cutting you did below the window should have zero affect.

A 20" diameter post????  I know you said you are in the northwest, but that's a tree.  You indicate there is no sagging or change at the floor under this post or the ceiling above this post.  Double check that there is something under the post (basement/crawl space/footing) that is carrying this post and load.  The plinth needs to be pushing on something that won't give.  If it is sitting on joists, the joiste should be blocked and bridged.  What did you all do at the top of the poist to carry loads?  There must be another floor above, and again, there would need to be enough blocking and bridging to carry whatever ithe wall was carrying.

Trusses do not place a load on interior walls.  Trusses move and vary from season to season.  YOu may have a crack that comes and goes at interior ceiling lines due to truss uplift.  This is not a structural defect, it is normal.  Here is a brief description:  <http://www.accurateinspection.com/Truss_uplift.htm>

That's about all I can suggest from my end.

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Dan Griffin

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I can answer almost all questions related to the total construction process. My expertise is in commercial construction, though I can field most any residential question. I have hands on experience in concrete, heavy equipment, masonry, all phases of carpentry, interior finishes, and I am fairly strong in mechanical and electrical.

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I have over 20 years experience as a commercial carpenter and commercial construction superintendent. I have another 20 years experience in facility management for a major school district.

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My favorite hobby for he past 12 years has been singing bass in a The OkChorale men's barbershop chorus and the Mature Moments quartet.

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I hold a Bachelor's degree in English and Math. I have completed many continuing education hours in the building trades. I hold a Master Carpenter card from the AGC, Associated General Contractors.

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