Building Homes or Extensions/Garage Header Replacement

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QUESTION: Hi, I am (along with many others) going to repalce the header above my 16' attached garage. The original construction is poor (built in 1964) and would like to replace with a full length glue-lam or simailar. I am not sure what the correct construction is for the side supports, or the best way to support the trusses during replacement. Can you give any advise.  Garage is attached  approx 20x16 with a standard double garage door. The opening is on an eave end. Roof framing consists of trusses- 16" O.C.and is a 4-5 pitch. I'm in Central Oklahoma, so we don't have a huge amount of snow... Garage base is concrete slab with poured stemwall. If I didn't say, has a 16' insulated aluminum door w/ opener. Thanks! Denny


ANSWER: Denny, it is sad that so many builders used inadequate headers across garage openings.  A good friend was asking me the same thing, I haven't seen it but he says his is down almost 4 inches at mid point.  He wants to stiffen his rather than remove and replace.  Your existing end bearing is probably all right, I suspect the header is sagged at mid point not failed at the end points.  We are going to look at his as jacking back to straight or slightly crowned  and bolting on a C channel on the inside surface.  I suggested removing and replacing but he wants to avoid getting into the exterior soffit, etc.

I think replacement is better.  You will need to raise and support the trusses during the operation.  YOu should be able to remove the drywall to expose the bottom of the trusses.  I would create a temporary 2x6 header and hang it from the bottom of the trusses with some 2x2 scabs or similar, and 4x4 studs or screw jacks to raise and hold.  If things sound or look spooky, you could brace the bottom chord of the trusses to the top chord to push the entire tail as a unit.  I would pick things up slightly higher than final.  Remove the existing header - probably in pieces, and the existing trimmers.  You will need to remove the garage door, its trim and rails and your goods will be open to the vandals until completion.  YOu could stud the support header and wafer board the opening if this is a major issue.  It would be ambitious to remove and replace in a day, especially during this 100 plus weather.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks Very much! That's pretty much the strategy I had in mind. One side of the bracing is compromised due to the fact that it has been neglected for some time, and I was planning on exposing it on both sides of the opening but did plan on duplicating one side to the other material-wise unless it is the correct way to do it.-- It seems they did a lot of things on this home the cheapest way possible!  Thanks again for your help, you have a great service!  

Answer
Denny, whereabouts?  Edmond, Yukon, Moore, OKC?  I live in OKC and work for PUtnam City School District.

It doesn't sound like you are having any problems with shear bracing, but you might want ot look at this Simpson product:
http://www.strongtie.com/products/strongwall/steel-strongwall/cfs.asp

Good luck.

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Dan Griffin

Expertise

I can answer almost all questions related to the total construction process. My expertise is in commercial construction, though I can field most any residential question. I have hands on experience in concrete, heavy equipment, masonry, all phases of carpentry, interior finishes, and I am fairly strong in mechanical and electrical.

Experience

I have over 20 years experience as a commercial carpenter and commercial construction superintendent. I have another 20 years experience in facility management for a major school district.

Organizations
My favorite hobby for he past 12 years has been singing bass in a The OkChorale men's barbershop chorus and the Mature Moments quartet.

Education/Credentials
I hold a Bachelor's degree in English and Math. I have completed many continuing education hours in the building trades. I hold a Master Carpenter card from the AGC, Associated General Contractors.

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