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Building Homes or Extensions/Fireplace Removal/Replace w/Steel Fireplace

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Expert: - 12/20/2009


Question

Vexair F/P
Hello,
  I just read about a removal in your site but my problem is a little different.  I have a modular home, I have been in it less then a year and the f/p doesn't put out much heat, I live in SW Wyo where you need a good heat source.  My wife is allergic to gas so we have to have all electric.  Now I am trying to minimize the electric bill.  The f/p extends out from a main wall in its own walled area.  It is a Vexair unit with the double blower unit at the bottom and double glass doors. It has fake fire brick on the bottom and sides. The top angles up to the flew. There is tile that surrounds the f/p that must be removed, but can the f/p be removed without removing the entire chimney and just slid out?  Also, is there mason board under and on the sides or just wood paneling under the f/p? Since I am replacing this unit with a steel f/p should I place mason board on the bottom and sides? I have some construction and remodel experience, just never removed a f/p, yet.  

Answer
Darren, I can't be very specific without being able to see it, but I can sure do some guessing.  The picutre you sent looks to have a spike horn elk out a shed of some sort.  If this is the modular in question, I don't know how much help I will be <grin>.  If your place is a modular, I would guess that the fireplace does not have a masonry chimney and probably does have a double or triple wall pipe type chimney.  You should be able to see this on the roof - it is often disguised with a wooden or other box so it doesn't look like a pipe sticking out of the roof.  These are often strapped or blocked to keep them aligned away from the framing, but the weight is usually bearing on the appliance.  The sections are relatively light weight and should be fairly easy to remove.  Most screw or bayonet lock together.  

I do not know the Vexair unit by name, but it sounds as if it already was designed to provide heat.  I hope that the new unit you are considering can outperform it.  We did install one once in an all electric home that was a large all steel double wall fire chamber that tied directly into the home's duct system.  We rigged the HVAC fan to continuous run, and the owner reported a huge benefit in the electric bill.  This new unit will probably require class B venting and your existing material may be usable.  Make sure it is sized properly and meets the requirements.  This venting pipe is quite expensive.

The existing box probably has cement board or similar under and behind, but you won't know until you get into it.  I would certainly design non combustibles all around your new installation.  If you already own this new stove, it will have clearance listings and minimum distance requirements.  If this work is to be inspected they will want to see this paper work.  You will want  to open some bit of the wall above the existing FP to see how the existing chimney is attached.  I'm sure you want to remove the existing stack if you are not reusing it to seal the air passage..  

Dan Griffin

Expertise

I can answer almost all questions related to the total construction process. My expertise is in commercial construction, though I can field most any residential question. I have hands on experience in concrete, heavy equipment, masonry, all phases of carpentry, interior finishes, and I am fairly strong in mechanical and electrical.

Experience

I have over 20 years experience as a commercial carpenter and commercial construction superintendent. I have another 20 years experience in facility management for a major school district.

Organizations
My favorite hobby for he past 12 years has been singing bass in a The OkChorale men's barbershop chorus and the Mature Moments quartet.

Education/Credentials
I hold a Bachelor's degree in English and Math. I have completed many continuing education hours in the building trades. I hold a Master Carpenter card from the AGC, Associated General Contractors.

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