Expert: Dan Griffin - 4/13/2009

Question
QUESTION: I am covering a 10'x10' front porch and would like to know the best way to attach the header or supports to my existing brick house. The brick is 3 1/2" thick covering wood framed house. My question is do I have to run my header right through the brick to wood frame in order to get the proper support and for the proper building codes.

ANSWER: Brick veneer is NOT a structural element.  Building codes wail not allow you to fasten to the veneer.  It would certainly be best to create standoffs using pipe or similar to carry the ledger to prevent destroying the brick.  There is an empty space between the brick and the sheathing.  If you just start cranking up the through bolts or lags, you can break the brick mortar.  You will also need careful counterflashing to prevent water getting in behind the brick at your new roof intersection.

The porch can also be designed as a free standing unit that requires no attachment.  Again, severe counterflashing issues.

You've never said one story or two.  If single story, strongly consider removing the veneer at and above your porch, attaching the framing, tie into the existing roof/soffit system for good weather seal.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: This is a two story home and the roof would be covering a first story porch. Since I will be not high enough to attach to the existing roof you said to attach pipe to create standoffs. Since I am unable to locate the wooden frame without cutting away at least some brick to locate one stud to start from. If I do locate a stud, can I just run my beam straigt into the stud and attach that way or is code only reached by using pipe or steel coming out of the house. Thanks for help!!

Rich


Answer
Rich, the best answer I can give is that you should contact your local building inspector and review with him.  They can very well require a structural engineer's drawing.  I am quite sure they will NOT let you fasten to the brick.  They may require removng the brick for a structural tie in and proper flashing.  

They may allow you to fasten to the framing through the brick.  This might be with lags, but may well require through bolting which will require opening up the inside.  I had suggested stand offs that would allow drawing the ledger tight without pushing on the veneer.  This may satisfy your inspector, but it his call.

An engineer and your AHJ may require removing the brick, adding a lintel, and attaching new framing to existing framing.  This method is actually the best for flashing and long term waterproof.  The wind and snow loads can be substantial and the shear forces of the roof pushing in and out on the veneer can be substantial.

If you are 2 story, there is a rim joist carrying the second floor joiste that might work out for a fastening surface.  It will be very difficult to locate studs throught the veneer.

I would like to know what jurisdiction you are in and what your inspector ends up saying.