Expert: Bruce E. Johnson - 6/23/2009

Question
Hi Bruce,

Thank you very much for your response to my previous question. The builder had the framer to redo the window framing in the family room already. They reframed headboards above windows just like the ones in Sun room & had hurricane traps applied on it.

I also have another concerns related to this house wood frame structures and would like to ask for your advice. Please take a look on the web link below:
   http://www.dzidzom.com/images/Wood_Frame_Structure
My questions are:

1. SLOPED CEILING:  Is it a proper installation method to frame the sloped ceiling with those studs like that (see photos in folder “SLOPED CEILING”? I believe the end of these sloped studs/rafters nailed to the wall studs are very fragile and too weak to hold the ceiling sheetrock.  I’m afraid they will be fall off from the ceiling later on when the sheetrock applied on.  If the rafter framed correctly and leaned on the side of wall stud, do they need “joist hanger” nailed at its end to secure itself on the ceiling?

2. “CUT FLOORING NAILS”: how far (interval space) these nails need to be nailed the bottom plate to prevent the wall moved on the concrete floor.  What is the standard size of this cut flooring nail used in residential wood frame construction?

3. RAFTER END: I discover a broken rafter end (with a cracked line, 3ft long) at corner of the bed room frame.  I can’t believe the framer insert a piece of ply wood to fill the gap between this rafter and upper plate. Also, the builder didn’t have this broken rafter fixed before having decks & shingle roof applied on it.  I already noticed the superintendent again about this issue and he said he will have the framer to fix it later on.  I wonder how do they fix the broken rafter, and the “gap” between rafter and upper plate???

4. MOLD: I found out there is MOLD on many wall studs and ceiling joists in the house frame.  Is there any rule or code that applied to “standard quality” of product in the residential wood frame structure?  I’m asking the builder to WASH this mold before the house had sheetrock and they haven’t given me feedback on this issue.

I look forward to hearing from your advices soon.

Sincerely,
Duke

Answer
HI again Duke, for some reason I couldn't access the website to look at the photos.  But I will try to answer your questions the best I can without seeing the pictures.  1. Apparently you have a set of building plans, a building permit and a general contractor?  Your plans, as drawn by a licensed architect and engineer should specify how the roof and other parts of the structure should be built, what size lumber, connections etc.  If the framing carpenter isn't abiding by the sealed drawings then he should be made to tear out the work and redo it according to specifications unless a change order or approval is given by the engineer or architect.  2. A cut nail into concrete to nail down a sill plate should be a #10 minimum which is 3" long giving a concrete embedment of 1 1/2".  3. a gap that is shimmed properly is acceptable provided the shim is solid and can withstand the pressure exerted on it.  Lumber nowadays is not completely standardized and lumber mills generally suck when it comes to producing uniform lumber.  In any given stack of 2x10's they may vary in thickness by up to 1/4"- 3/8" either way so if one is 9 1/4" thick and the other one is 9 3/4" and they are side by side you may have to shim up the narrower one to allow the roof to plane out.  I cannot comment on the crack in the lumber or how it affects the structure, however, if the rafter tail is split and will be covered, it is acceptable to put a cleat of similar sized material over the broken or cracked piece.  4. when you say mold are you referring to black splotches on the wood or other forms of mold?  In Florida, we have our wood structures sprayed inside with Timbor which kills and prevents any wood destroying organisms prior to closing the walls up.  Sometimes I use Clorox outdoor bleach mixed in a sprayer and spray any areas of concern if there are signs of mold or potential mildew are present.  There are also some good mold control and prevention products availble through MoldArmor that are easily applied that can take the worry out of this problem.  I hope this information helps feel free to write again regarding this or other matters, sincerely bruce e johnson..bejohnsonconsulting.com