Expert: Dan Griffin - 6/23/2009

Question
Hi Dan,

Thank you very much for your response to my previous question. The builder had the framer to redo the window framing in the family room already. They reframed headboards above windows just like the ones in Sun room & had hurricane traps applied on it.

I also have another concerns related to this house wood frame structures and would like to ask for your advice. Please take a look on the web link below:
   http://www.dzidzom.com/images/Wood_Frame_Structure
My questions are:

1. SLOPED CEILING:  Is it a proper installation method to frame the sloped ceiling with those studs like that (see photos in folder “SLOPED CEILING”? I believe the end of these sloped studs/rafters nailed to the wall studs are very fragile and too weak to hold the ceiling sheetrock.  I’m afraid they will be fall off from the ceiling later on when the sheetrock applied on.  If the rafter framed correctly and leaned on the side of wall stud, do they need “joist hanger” nailed at its end to secure itself on the ceiling?

2. “CUT FLOORING NAILS”: how far (interval space) these nails need to be nailed the bottom plate to prevent the wall moved on the concrete floor.  What is the standard size of this cut flooring nail used in residential wood frame construction?

3. RAFTER END: I discover a broken rafter end (with a cracked line, 3ft long) at corner of the bed room frame.  I can’t believe the framer inserted a piece of ply wood to fill the gap between this rafter and upper plate. Also, the builder didn’t have this broken rafter fixed before having decks & shingle roof applied on it (roof already on).  I already noticed the superintendent again about this issue and he said he will have the framer to fix it later on.  I wonder how do they fix the broken rafter, and the “gap” between rafter and upper plate???

4. MOLD: I found out there is MOLD on many wall studs and ceiling joists in the house frame.  Is there any rule or code that applied to “standard quality” of product in the residential wood frame structure?  I’m asking the builder to WASH this mold before the house had sheetrock and they haven’t given me feedback on this issue.

I look forward to hearing from your advices soon.

Sincerely,
Duke

Answer
Duke, you've certainly found some interesting issues.  I question the skill level of some of the framing decisions.  I personally did not object to the window framing issue, but some of these others smack of lack of care and/or lack of skill.  I don't know that I would have offered to change the window framing for free, so it sounds as if your builder is trying to give you both qualtiy and satisfaction. Has he seen these latest pictures?

The sloped ceiling joists look juvenile to say the least and totally unacceptable.  I would be amazed if a framing inspector would pass them.

I didn't find any pictures to go with the cut nail reference.  If these are nails to hold the bottom plate in line on a concrete slab I would expect them to be 3-3 1/2" long about every 16" with extra attention at any door or end of wall condition.

The cracked hip rafter was miss cut and the wafer board scrap was used to raise the hip into the proper plane for the other rafters.  I don't know how they cracked the thing unless they dropped it when they were passing them up.  If they miss cut one, have you checked the other hip(s)?  Using a filler under the rafter cut doesn't bother me.  I would have expected a nicely cut and installed filler.  The rafter ties all seem to be short of holding what they need with a few neils in the very bottom of the rafter.  The gap in the double plate does not bother me, the prime function is to tie the building corner together and the through board does that well.  The gap should be filled with grow foam or something similar.  I think that a well fit plywood gusset on both sides of the hip that is glued and nailed would make a reasonable repair of the rafter short of removing and replacing.  This would require removing the rafter ties and the wafer board chip to make this material function as part of the rafter.  They could then install a better fitting rafter tie on each side.  It will be very awkward to nail into the double plates, but I think a palm nailer might fit.

The mold doesn't look all that bad to me.  I know that mold has become a major issue.  Mold exists, mold exists everywhere, mold can only provide a threat where it has food, water, and darkness.  A good bleach treatment would insure killing any active mold spores on the surface of the wood.  Scrubbing the boards sounds excessive to me.  If it is a major concern to you, perhaps offer to pay extra for a scrub job.

I see no mention of the foundation pictues.  Surely this has been resolved by removal and replacement.